John
Collector wannabe
Posts: 10 
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Post by John on Jan 7, 2018 20:09:09 GMT -5
I have been lurking around here for the past 4 years about and usually just reading through the old threads I can find answers to my questions I love reading through the restoration threads, SO MUCH good info here. I have 2 issues, I would like to get anyone that would like to share there opinions on.
1. I bought a 750 off eBay a few years back, had a scored piston, I just figured I’d buy a new piston offline for it and put it back together. Well I finally tore it down last week and the piston has a lot of scoring and the cylinder had some melted aluminum on it. I removed the aluminum and it cleaned up pretty well, but towards the bottom I noticed that there’s a small chip in the chrome. It’s below were the rings ride but it’s still there. Do I need a new cylinder? Or do you think I should just use this cylinder and put a new piston in it and hope no more chips off. What are the odds it will? Saw will be occasionally used for fun and that it if that makes a difference.
2. This ones a little more interesting. I have a XP1020 I took apart sometime ago because it needed the piston and rings replaced. I found a good used piston and new rings and am going to put it back together but what would be involved in making it and auto Oiler? Drill the side of the case for the plump install the pump and worm gear and flip the clutch. What’s the difference on the crank if any and I know I’d need to find a clutch cover. Thought?
thanks in advance for humoring me on this lol
John
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Post by undee70ss on Jan 7, 2018 21:17:40 GMT -5
1. Can you post pic of chip? Where is location of chip? ( in relation to wrist pin). How close is it to rings? What kind of piston are you using, NOS, used or aftermarket?
New cylinders are about impossible to find for 750’s. There are places that will rechrome your cylinder but it’s expensive.
2. To me, it would be more trouble than it’s worth. You could always sell it and get a 1020 auto, 1050 or a Super 1050.
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John
Collector wannabe
Posts: 10
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Post by John on Jan 8, 2018 20:04:10 GMT -5
Here’s the chip: 
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John
Collector wannabe
Posts: 10
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Post by John on Jan 8, 2018 20:12:49 GMT -5
As for a piston I was just going to buy one from little red barn on eBay. If the original piston was useable I had a set of rings I purchased from “Otto engine works” ( I think that was the name) in Maryland. I used those in my super 2100 4 years ago and they worked very well.
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Post by undee70ss on Jan 9, 2018 3:24:56 GMT -5
If this is going to be a very occasional use/fun saw, it would be ok for a while. The proper way would be to have the cylinder replaced or yours rechromed.
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John
Collector wannabe
Posts: 10
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Post by John on Jan 9, 2018 6:34:44 GMT -5
Do you know of any company’s that do rechroming?
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Post by onlyhomelites on Jan 9, 2018 8:15:20 GMT -5
I know from other forums that this company does a good job: www.usnicom.com/But be prepared to pay...I don't know of any company that will do this for less than $200. But if a NOS cylinder ever appeared on Ebay, it would probably sell for $500-600, so re-chroming doesn't seem so bad! |
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John
Collector wannabe
Posts: 10
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Post by John on Jan 10, 2018 5:34:57 GMT -5
I agree with that! I can’t see putting $500 plus into this saw just for home use/fun. I emailed that company, let’s see what they have to say.
Back on the xp1020 topic, has anyone seen the auto and non auto cranks side by side to see the difference?
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John
Collector wannabe
Posts: 10
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Post by John on Jan 10, 2018 16:47:08 GMT -5
I got that answer today on price, I was told “most chainsaw cylinders” are $230. No definite price till they have the cylinder and new piston in hand. That’s a bit more then I’m wanting to spend at this time. I looked at the 770gs thread before checking this one today and I never thought about rechroming myself. I wonder what’s involved with that..
google here I come!
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Post by onlyhomelites on Jan 10, 2018 22:57:45 GMT -5
I don't have any pictures of the two XP crankshafts, but in general I'd guess the only real difference is machining where the oil pump worm gear would go.
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John
Collector wannabe
Posts: 10
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Post by John on Jan 15, 2018 21:09:03 GMT -5
I finally started working on the xp1020 today, got the new rings on the used piston and the cylinder on. I was looking at the clutch and took the lock nut off and had a realization... the clutch would have to be flipped around like I thought, but were it would screw on isn’t there just the area for the lock nut so I guess the auto crank is longer? Also this is one of the older cases and it’s completly different we’re the auto oiler would go and it doesn’t just have the block off plate there. I think I’m just going to put it back together as is and forget the auto Oiler idea.
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Post by rarefish383 on Mar 22, 2018 15:42:37 GMT -5
I finally started working on the xp1020 today, got the new rings on the used piston and the cylinder on. I was looking at the clutch and took the lock nut off and had a realization... the clutch would have to be flipped around like I thought, but were it would screw on isn’t there just the area for the lock nut so I guess the auto crank is longer? Also this is one of the older cases and it’s completly different we’re the auto oiler would go and it doesn’t just have the block off plate there. I think I’m just going to put it back together as is and forget the auto Oiler idea. Thread is getting a little old, but here's my .02. Definitely leave it manual pump. I grew up on manual oilers and once you get used to riding that button, you don't even notice. My Dad wanted the oil tank empty with the fuel tank. If he walked by and you weren't pumping, he'd have something to say. Now, 40 plus years later, I've got to admit, my right thumb is still twice as big as my left, Joe. |
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