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Post by jerseyhighlander on Jan 6, 2018 1:25:33 GMT -5
This saw is a special one in several respects. First, it was the first Homelite and/or vintage saw I've ever acquired and the reason I developed a liking for Homelites. Then, the need to rebuild it and get it functional again is what led me to find the House of Homelite. And yep, it's been sitting apart on my bench all this time, getting cleaned up and rebuilt a little at a time with lots of help on the forum along the way. It was always in rough shape since I got it several years ago but I always made due & just kept pushing it till it wouldn't even start anymore. It's been hanging in the basement for better than three years now awaiting my having time & energy to get to it but it's finally back together again. Didn't finish till 11pm so couldn't gas it up and run it till morning. IMG_6431 by Kyle, on Flickr IMG_6433 by Kyle, on Flickr IMG_6435 by Kyle, on Flickr IMG_6438 by Kyle, on Flickr IMG_6441 by Kyle, on Flickr
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Post by Deleted on Jan 6, 2018 9:00:00 GMT -5
That saw looks fantastic Kyle, Great Job!
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Post by sweepleader on Jan 6, 2018 10:19:21 GMT -5
Very nice, I'll bet it cuts like new too. Well done. :{)
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Post by undee70ss on Jan 6, 2018 11:49:42 GMT -5
😊😊😊
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Post by jerseyhighlander on Jan 6, 2018 17:02:10 GMT -5
Well, I couldn't start it last night when I finished around 11pm. Slept in a bit this morning & couldn't get to the basement & the saw till this afternoon. After I remembered it's best to hold the throttle open while starting this saw, it snapped right on and started singing my tune but promptly stalled when I tried to let it idle. Made some adjustments and kicked it over again but only a little improvement. It'll run as long as I keep reving it but bogs and dies if I get the rpm's too low. Several more adjustments/tries and still the same. May need to crack it open again, go over the carb, again, check for leaking crank seals & such.
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Post by sweepleader on Jan 6, 2018 17:21:16 GMT -5
Try turning the idle speed up until the saw will run without pulling the throttle. When you have it running with the idle speed screwed way in, set the high speed close to correct before you start working your way down to a proper idle speed. Then back the idle speed down till it roughens and adjust the idle mix to smooth it out and speed it up. Then drop the idle a little again and readjust the idle mix. Repeat until it idles correctly. A good mix for a low enough idle speed can often be found this way, without a zillion restarts.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 6, 2018 18:15:58 GMT -5
Try turning the idle speed up until the saw will run without pulling the throttle. When you have it running with the idle speed screwed way in, set the high speed close to correct before you start working your way down to a proper idle speed. Then back the idle speed down till it roughens and adjust the idle mix to smooth it out and speed it up. Then drop the idle a little again and readjust the idle mix. Repeat until it idles correctly. A good mix for a low enough idle speed can often be found this way, without a zillion restarts. That is great information. Thank you Dan. I'm going to try that on my EZ
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Post by jerseyhighlander on Jan 6, 2018 19:04:05 GMT -5
Try turning the idle speed up until the saw will run without pulling the throttle. When you have it running with the idle speed screwed way in, set the high speed close to correct before you start working your way down to a proper idle speed. Then back the idle speed down till it roughens and adjust the idle mix to smooth it out and speed it up. Then drop the idle a little again and readjust the idle mix. Repeat until it idles correctly. A good mix for a low enough idle speed can often be found this way, without a zillion restarts. That is great information. Thank you Dan. I'm going to try that on my EZ That was the 2nd 3rd thing I did, kindof. Put the idle screw way in but maybe I needed to stop trying to throttle back up and just see if it would idle so I could make running adjustments. Would help if I cleared the snow/ice off my outside workbench so I could put it down and have a free hand. Will try again tomorrow, the wind chill is currently -15˚ out there. Can only work so long in bare hands, though yank that dam starter cord was keeping me pretty warm. Went to adjust it and remembered the high screw is one of those D shaped heads and I don't have the proper tool anywhere. Took a piece of scrap 1/4 nickel/copper brake line and hammered out a reasonable facsimile. Which reminds me. This is the 1983 or so saw, the 1976 saw, is has no high adjustment screw at all. Seems kinda reversed to me, that the earlier saw is missing it but the later one has it. Post 1970's oil crisis alterations?
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Post by onlyhomelites on Jan 6, 2018 19:18:15 GMT -5
They experimented with the no high speed adjustment in the late 70's but I think it was universally despised (I know I hate it). It was added back in the early 80's.
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Post by jerseyhighlander on Jan 6, 2018 22:21:10 GMT -5
They experimented with the no high speed adjustment in the late 70's but I think it was universally despised (I know I hate it). It was added back in the early 80's. Yah, not fond of it myself. Will likely look to swap carbs in the future when I make that saw functional. Taking this into consideration, I have to wonder if this is at least part of the reason this saw, being the older one, appears like it had very little use. Could be a million other reasons but, still makes me wonder...
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Post by tjthechainsawmech on Jan 6, 2018 23:07:51 GMT -5
Nice work!
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Post by jerseyhighlander on Sept 23, 2018 21:54:58 GMT -5
The Super 2 lives again! After the rebuild and not being able to get this thing started for more than a few seconds, I had hung it up and switched gears to other things but kept seeing it hanging there and having that terminal thorn in my side. Just didn’t make sense that no adjustment made any difference, it should at least run, maybe crappy, but stay running. I had taken it back out a while later, determined to get it going, fresh gas, fresh determination, two pulls in and the starter cord broke… Nearly lost my cool. Just hung it up again before my infamous bad temper of my youth came out. Been sneering at it ever since but too dam busy. Firewood season being upon us and winter looming in the distance, took it apart again last week, started testing the carb, opened it up and everything was as it should be. Then I looked at that one part that was still there from way back when, the one that doesn’t come in the rebuild kit. The main nozzle check valve. Put a section of fuel line over it, blew air through it, check, sucked air through it. Dammit! Started prying on the C clip that holds the screen in and it just wasn’t coming out. Drove an awl through the screen and pried out the brass fitting. Nothing but a stupid flat rubber-ish disc under it. Looked ok but it was not pliable at all anymore. Looked it up, on Walbro’s site, got a part number, sure enough it’s a separate part for some unfathomable reason. The site makes it look like it’s available for roughly $3. Start looking on the net and apparently these things are virtually non-existent. Found a couple on fleaBay, for a totally ridiculous price. One joker wants $15.- for it. That was Saturday afternoon, so Monday morning called my local shop and they had one (1), $3 & change. When I finally picked it up and put it in, put everything back together and she cranks right up and stays running. A few adjustments and she’s growling at the trees! Worked with it a bit yesterday and a lot more today, cutting into a tangle of Oak, Hickory & Black Birch branches. So nice to have something small, light and maneuverable again. I have missed this saw. Now the quest to find a dozen or so of these check valve kits. Here she it posing next to the Blue Beast with it’s new 24” bar.
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Post by rowdy235 on Sept 23, 2018 22:00:57 GMT -5
Looking good! It can be frustrating (problems like that) but always feels so good when you finally have that moment and everything comes together!
Nice saws!
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