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Post by Deleted on Dec 22, 2017 21:49:34 GMT -5
I have seen the post with the poll on how you prefer to sharpen your chain and I for one use (hope this word doesn't get me banned) a Husqvarna file guide with the flat file that will file in front of the tooth as well. I have pretty good luck so far and have used one for years but sometimes I question my angle. I am thinking I would be better off with a guide that mounts to the bar and maintains the angle. I understand the electric file would be the best but I sometimes have to come back to reality and realize I live in a subdivision of over 500 homes and almost no trees. I do have some land but until late I haven't cranked a saw in 5 years so it just doesn't seem feasible to have that sitting in a garage. Which I guess having saws like C-72 and super XL's (and the super 1050 I have my sights on) doesn't seem feasible either but with that feasibility can take a hike. Any thoughts are recommendations on this?
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Post by Deleted on Dec 22, 2017 22:26:21 GMT -5
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Post by jerseyhighlander on Dec 23, 2017 10:51:21 GMT -5
Sharpening a chainsaw chain isn't work I've ever felt needed to be checked with a micrometer. If you are off a degree or two from one tooth to another, I seriously doubt the tree is ever going to realize it. We aren't machining space ship parts here, a chainsaw is a pretty rough work, tool unless you're doing timberframing or milling with it, and even then, you finish that work with hand tools. Temper this comment with the fact that I am extraordinarily anal about the precision of many other things that I do. You can read a newspaper in the reflection of one of my woodworking chisels and shave your face with it.
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Post by sweepleader on Dec 23, 2017 13:54:30 GMT -5
I bought the NH version of the Granberg guide a year ago and have failed to put it to use. I have just used my Oregon file guides with good success, similar to this: www.amazon.com/Oregon-104004-Saw-Chain-Sharpening/dp/B073XM3P6Q?SubscriptionId=AKIAILSHYYTFIVPWUY6Q&tag=duckduckgo-d-20&linkCode=xm2&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B073XM3P6Q I think the depth of the file is important, this guide rides on the top of the tooth to maintain that dimension. There are angle marks on the top of the tool to line up with the bar. I also agree with jersey that the angle is not life or death for part time sawyers. More important is consistency, all the cutters on both sides are the same. My feelings as expressed in another thread that I cannot find, are that I have not had great luck with shops grinding my chains on a machine. I prefer hand filing to get sharper teeth and less metal removed. If I hit steel or a rock, I will take the chain in, then file it when I get it back. Costs me $6 once every few years and I don't have money or space in a grinder. Now, if you want to give me one, I bet I could find space to store it. |
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Post by Deleted on Dec 23, 2017 13:58:27 GMT -5
I bought the NH version of the Granberg guide a year ago and have failed to put it to use. I have just used my Oregon file guides with good success, similar to this: www.amazon.com/Oregon-104004-Saw-Chain-Sharpening/dp/B073XM3P6Q?SubscriptionId=AKIAILSHYYTFIVPWUY6Q&tag=duckduckgo-d-20&linkCode=xm2&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B073XM3P6Q I think the depth of the file is important, this guide rides on the top of the tooth to maintain that dimension. There are angle marks on the top of the tool to line up with the bar. I also agree with jersey that the angle is not life or death for part time sawyers. More important is consistency, all the cutters on both sides are the same. My feelings as expressed in another thread that I cannot find, are that I have not had great luck with shops grinding my chains on a machine. I prefer hand filing to get sharper teeth and less metal removed. If I hit steel or a rock, I will take the chain in, then file it when I get it back. Costs me $6 once every few years and I don't have money or space in a grinder. Now, if you want to give me one, I bet I could find space to store it. I have this kit and the Granberg and will start using the hand method before I try to set up the file and joint |
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Post by sweepleader on Dec 23, 2017 15:09:59 GMT -5
Don't rush any file method, use careful and complete strokes. I would suggest that until you get to feeling good about it, just do 2 or 3 strokes on each tooth, remembering to use the same angles and pressure on both sides of the chain. I normally find that 5 or 6 strokes will clean up a really dull chain. If I get to that point, I feel I should have sharpened it a while ago. I think it should take me about 10 minutes of paying attention to get everything squared away and razor sharp. Do watch out, you can cut yourself pretty easily on a properly filed chain. When you are done with the cutters, check the depth gages. They usually only really need adjusting after quite a bit of sharpening but I like to check them each time to be sure I don't wait too long.
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Post by Deleted on Dec 27, 2017 17:33:55 GMT -5
I tried to sharpen by using a file over 30 yrs.ago,but nobody actually showed me the proper way,so I gave it up until recently.A guy who was staying at my house showed me how to properly file a chain about 3 yrs.ago.I like using Pferd files,they seem to last a heck of a lot longer than other files I've tried.He told me to just follow the angle that's already there.I haven't taken a chain in to be ruined by a grinder since then,of course it doesn't help matters when I got a huge log stuck on my log splitter,so I decided to take my bigger saw & cut down to the wedge - whoops,I hit the splitting wedge & knocked 2 teeth off the chain.Now I have a customized skip tooth chain.Lol
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