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Post by Deleted on Nov 5, 2017 10:28:54 GMT -5
So, I have two fins broken and do not have the flywheel off yet, however in the event that I do get the flywheel ,off is it possible to replace the flywheel and module with a Phelon parts and eliminate the parts.
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Post by breese on Nov 5, 2017 10:32:31 GMT -5
Can you post a picture on how you are using the puller?
There should not be any force on the fins when using it.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 5, 2017 10:54:39 GMT -5
One fin was already broken and I suspect the other one was cracked, I just barely touched it and it broke, I'm not wedging the fins. I was just wondering about changing the whole set-up once I did get it off. I think someone used loctite on it.
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Post by breese on Nov 5, 2017 11:00:01 GMT -5
If it has Loctite on it, heat it up with a heat gun. That will help to break down the Loctite.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 5, 2017 11:52:18 GMT -5
If it has Loctite on it, heat it up with a heat gun. That will help to break down the Loctite. Thanks a bunch. I have a heat gun that might help, not a fan of the torch on a saw |
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Post by sweepleader on Nov 5, 2017 13:21:12 GMT -5
With a heat gun you can go crazy on a flywheel, especially if the flywheel is already junk. The hotter you get it the bigger the hole in the middle will get.
The other ignition parts should work fine, as long as they fit the saw. You will have to use the rotor (flywheel) and the matching module (coil, sort of) but it will run. I had a rough time converting my XL-500 to electronic at first because I could not find parts that would work together. Leon steered me onto a set from a single saw that he knew sparked. Works great now.
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Post by undee70ss on Nov 5, 2017 14:23:56 GMT -5
Don’t get the crank to hot or it will melt the seal. If using heat, I would replace seal anyways.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 5, 2017 17:50:53 GMT -5
Well I applied the heat gun for 15 minutes and it still wont budge. I'll try it again tomorrow
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Post by lesorubcheek on Nov 5, 2017 18:24:02 GMT -5
When I run across a stuck flywheel,I'll spray it good with penetrating oil (using PB Blaster lately) and give it a day or two to soak in well. Attach the puller and start to tighten down, but not excessively. Then get the heat gun and go around the flywheel trying not to get directly on the nut/end of crank, but close enough in to heat well where it's contacting. Then tighten down good on the puller. If it doesn't pop loose, Take a hammer and give some good solid blows on the head of the puller bolt. Tighten down again after a couple impacts and try again. If it's still stuck, repeat from the beginning with some more penetrating oil, a few days soak time, etc. I don't like using a hammer because not sure of damage to bearings,etc. but usually if the flywheel is stuck that bad, they'll need replacing anyway. Usually if it's stuck really bad it ends up having corrosion or has been scarred up like from a bad key and someone jammed it back on.
Dan
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Post by onlyhomelites on Nov 5, 2017 18:24:35 GMT -5
When you do get it off, you can use the electronic ignition flywheel and coil in place of the original, it's a straight bolt-in swap.
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Post by sweepleader on Nov 5, 2017 19:06:02 GMT -5
Lift up on the wheel to put weight of the saw on the bearings, instead of the weight of the wheel and crankshaft. That will minimize potential damage to the bearings. I would still suggest you could try wiggling the wheel with two prys on opposite sides. I have always had good luck with that method. Of course you can bend the shaft or damage the crankcase if you get carried away. I have never had that happen and I have pulled a lot of flywheels using this method. I rock the wheel back and forth, enough so I can see it moving. Usually takes about 10 rocks and it pops off.
I have faith, you will get it off.
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Post by Supercharged86 on Nov 6, 2017 21:41:48 GMT -5
Damaged rotors make great pullers, drill and tap the center for a 7/16" or 1/2" bolt.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 6, 2017 22:04:26 GMT -5
When you do get it off, you can use the electronic ignition flywheel and coil in place of the original, it's a straight bolt-in swap. That is exactly what I was hoping, thanks |
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Post by Deleted on Nov 6, 2017 22:05:34 GMT -5
Lift up on the wheel to put weight of the saw on the bearings, instead of the weight of the wheel and crankshaft. That will minimize potential damage to the bearings. I would still suggest you could try wiggling the wheel with two prys on opposite sides. I have always had good luck with that method. Of course you can bend the shaft or damage the crankcase if you get carried away. I have never had that happen and I have pulled a lot of flywheels using this method. I rock the wheel back and forth, enough so I can see it moving. Usually takes about 10 rocks and it pops off. I have faith, you will get it off. Thanks, I'm going to use a long screwdriver and a mini pry bar and try your method, I think it might work. |
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Post by Clasec on Nov 6, 2017 22:34:53 GMT -5
If you use this method be careful as sweepleader says. I bought a beautiful XL400 with the recoil and flywheel removed I was curious why it wasn't replaced. I replaced the flywheel and the crank end was bent from pulling the flywheel in this manner. If it could be done to a XL400 it would be easier to do to a SEZ as the crank is probably smaller. Charles.
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Post by sweepleader on Nov 7, 2017 7:26:17 GMT -5
Yes, do be careful. The crank will flex some before it bends but you would actually be trying to flex the clearance between the tapers. It is not a lot but they are never perfectly the same angle, that is what allows this method. You can also punch holes in the crankcase with the end of your lever. This method actually does not take a lot of force, just move the wheel back and forth while maintaining upward force.
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