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Post by strtjoints on Nov 2, 2017 16:08:12 GMT -5
I have in my possession a very hard to find A-24994 test lamp in original box with directions. Don't know what to charge for it. this test those 360,450.750 series ignition modules.
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Post by onlyhomelites on Nov 2, 2017 19:25:46 GMT -5
Last one I saw sold for about $75 on Ebay. I have one, only used it about 5 times before it quit working...not sure what went wrong, but I was disappointed!
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Post by sweepleader on Nov 2, 2017 19:38:30 GMT -5
Can one of you put up a picture and/or point to instructions? I am curious what it is and how it works.
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Post by strtjoints on Nov 2, 2017 19:44:07 GMT -5
I will try Friday to put up picture & directions.
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Post by lesorubcheek on Nov 2, 2017 19:46:18 GMT -5
They look just like the transformer that fits on top of the spark plug, except they're milky clear in color instead of black. You put it on instead of the actual transformer and crank... if the trigger module is working along with all the wiring, it'll light up a neon bulb inside at each spark.
Dan
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Post by sweepleader on Nov 2, 2017 19:51:15 GMT -5
Hmmm, can the neon be replaced? I was thinking about Leon being able to repair the one he has. A suitable neon bulb would likely be pretty inexpensive.
I would still like to see pics and the paperwork.
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Post by lesorubcheek on Nov 2, 2017 19:59:39 GMT -5
Sorry for the not clear pic... still not used to using a phone for pictures, anyway, here's one. Dan  |
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Post by stillsawing on Nov 2, 2017 20:08:25 GMT -5
The owners manual shows how to check the system with a #2 neon lamp taped to the transformer, I use my seven dollar Klein inductive line voltage tester.
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Post by lesorubcheek on Nov 2, 2017 20:16:35 GMT -5
Yea, I've never used the factory testers. I like the simple wire clip setup. Tests everything including the transformer together. Only thing it doesn't check is good contact with transformer screwed on. Dan  |
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Post by sweepleader on Nov 2, 2017 20:26:23 GMT -5
Looks pretty simple to fix, might or might not look perfect but the resistor and neon lamp could be had for a couple of bucks. I have one of those Klein testers, pretty handy, never thought of using it for spark testing. I used to have a similar thing for fixing cars but it took a strange battery that I never could find a replacement for. How do you use it on one of these electronic saws?  |
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Post by stillsawing on Nov 2, 2017 20:28:15 GMT -5
The picture shows the tester with plastite screws, that is the way the early transformers were mounted to the saw. Later version used machine screws, also required changing the receptor. The early ones with the plastite screws had a habit of stripping out the early receptor. Went through this problem with my 350, first version.
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Post by sweepleader on Nov 2, 2017 20:30:31 GMT -5
Yea, I've never used the factory testers. I like the simple wire clip setup. Tests everything including the transformer together. Only thing it doesn't check is good contact with transformer screwed on. View AttachmentDan In that picture it looks like there are two grounds, one to the module and one to the plug. One other lead collects a signal from the saw. The factory tester checks for a signal from the saw, if it is there the module is bad, if not problem is in the saw. Does that sound about right? How do you do that with your setup? |
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Post by stillsawing on Nov 2, 2017 20:53:34 GMT -5
Homelite instructed to use the #2 neon bulb method, and then start replacing parts, beginning with the transformer. And work your way back to the module. Parts were much cheaper in those days. In a later date, they mentioned checking the leads between the two parts,including the one that goes to the off/on switch. The transformer is a coil that sits on the sparkplug. Have never seen what the voltage output of the module is.
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Post by lesorubcheek on Nov 2, 2017 21:47:11 GMT -5
In that picture it looks like there are two grounds, one to the module and one to the plug. One other lead collects a signal from the saw. The factory tester checks for a signal from the saw, if it is there the module is bad, if not problem is in the saw. Does that sound about right? How do you do that with your setup? You're absolutely correct about the connections. The test is simple.... crank it over, look at the spark plug... if there's a spark, then there's a pretty good chance all is good and it's gonna pop. Still a chance of a weak plug that can spark when not in compressed air/fuel mix, but you get the idea. Dan |
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Post by sweepleader on Nov 3, 2017 20:43:59 GMT -5
I think a guy could hook a 35 ohm resistor in series with a #2 neon bulb and some alligator clips, then connect it across the saw like lesorubcheek's setup, no real need to screw it to the saw. That could be used just like the factory tester. Sell the factory unit to someone who really needs it.
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