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Post by ghost on Aug 15, 2017 7:10:39 GMT -5
I have an old XL-2 that was my grandfather's or uncle's. It hasn't been run in at least 20 years that I know of. It was covered in saw dust and oil. My 1st thought was to just pull the plug to see if there was any spark. Nope, none but the plug was pretty dirty. So through some research I found out this has a points system. I thought "No big deal. Pull it apart and clean the points." Well, I removed the engine from the case, it was full of saw dust and oil. SO I decided to clean everything really good before moving forward. While doing so, I ran into a little problem. The rubber oil lines were so brittle, they both just broke right off. The fuel line was still intact but I'll replace it anyway. I've noticed that a lot of people are using Tygon lines. My question is, what size is the oil and fuel line for the XL-2.
Thanks for any help,
Ghost
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Post by onlyhomelites on Aug 15, 2017 7:20:26 GMT -5
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Post by undee70ss on Aug 15, 2017 12:21:49 GMT -5
Hi Ghost, Welcome to HOH! The Tygon that fits the best is the 3/32" ID X 3/16" OD. Be sure when you replace the oil lines that you replace the duckbill valve on the pulse line....likely the duckbill valve in the fuel tank as well. Hope this helps! Leon Here's some pics of where duckbills are (they are orange). If the connector missing for the one in the oil tank, it's probably in the bottom of the tank. Also important on this series of saws is the oil line connections, if they are not correct, it will suck bar oil into the crankcase.    |
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Post by undee70ss on Aug 15, 2017 12:26:09 GMT -5
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Post by ghost on Aug 15, 2017 13:35:40 GMT -5
You guys are great. Thank you so much for the quick responce.
Are the duckbills all the same size or do you have to make sure to order a certain size?
Ghost
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Post by undee70ss on Aug 15, 2017 14:40:30 GMT -5
They are the same size, Homelite part number 69451. Just type "Homelite 69451" in the search bar at eBay and you will have plenty of choices. Better mower/saw shops will have them also.
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Post by ghost on Aug 28, 2017 5:10:59 GMT -5
undee70ss, I have another question. I haven't had much time to work on the saw. I did do a little more cleaning up and stopped by my local small engine repair shop. I picked up a couple feet of fuel line and pull cord. I ordered a couple of duckbill valves. I hope to have those soon and jump back in. I noticed in the bottom of the oil tank there was a small black piece (roughly 1/2 inch long or so). Is that what the valve mounts on? I didn't see a valve down in the tank so I think I'll put some fuel in it to clean it out. Just to make sure there's nothing down in it.
ghost
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Post by undee70ss on Aug 28, 2017 9:25:18 GMT -5
Yes. The connector is usually a brass or grayish color, but it may have somewhat turned black sitting in bottom of tank all these years.
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Post by ghost on Sept 15, 2017 19:30:39 GMT -5
Ok gentlemen, here's a quick update. I got the fuel and oil lines replaced along with the fuel filter. I haven't touched the carb yet. I checked the points gap and the coil gap. They were correct as far as I could tell. I don't have much experience with points. I rotated the crank and watched when the points opened and then closed. I then split that in half and checked the gap there. I am getting spark. So I'm one step closer. I wanted to see if it would kick over so I put a little starting fluid down the carb and pulled the cord. Nothing. So I pulled the plug and stray some in the cylinder. Quickly put the plug back in and pull...nothing. I was hoping to see if it would kick over before rebuilding the carb and mixing up fuel for it. Is it possible that the spark isn't strong enough? Or could the carb be so clogged that it's not getting the air it needs?
I guess I'll go ahead and clean the carb good without a kit and try some fuel next straight in the cylinder. If that doesn't work, I'll rebuild the carb with a kit.
Do you think I'm headed in the right direction? If not, I'm open to suggestions.
Ghost
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Post by sweepleader on Sept 15, 2017 20:27:12 GMT -5
Hi ghost, Welcome! My suggestion would be to never ever use starting fluid with a 2 cycle. It can wash the oil off pistons and other parts to cause all kinds of trouble. Have you checked the compression? You may have stuck rings and no compression, or not enough. I would use some 50/50 acetone/ATF in the cylinder on an engine that has been sitting. Dried fuel and oil can gum up the rings. Squirt some in, pull the engine through gently a couple of times and squirt again. Put the plug in and let it sit for a couple hours to over night. Then squirt in some more, give it a few minutes, pull it through gently and then pull like you want it to start. You may bet a pop or two. If so, try it with proper fuel mix. If this doesn't help, a compression gage may tell the story.
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