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Post by Deleted on Jul 12, 2017 20:06:53 GMT -5
First I did a search on this site for Homelite XL-901 and two posters back in 2011 claim the XL-901 is a manual oiler only, but Mike Acres site lists the XL-901 as a automatic oiler with manual override, which is right? Second, my serial number is 2944197, any guess as to what year it is? Next there wa no marking in the suffix box, doesn't appear to ever had one unless it was oil/gas soluble and washed off. Next, when I spray gas in it it runs for a second and dies, it is obviously not getting fuel. Also thore is waht appears to be some sort of pin-hole jet on the left side of the carb at the back and when the saw is tilted fuel comes out the pin-hole. I can order a kit, filter, and lines, but I would like to have some sort of idea as to why it might not be starting. Thanks everyone.
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Post by onlyhomelites on Jul 12, 2017 22:39:01 GMT -5
Well Acre's site has some errors and this is one of them. Check out this IPL and it is pretty clear that the XL-901 is a manual oiler only. www.leonschainsawpartsandrepair.com/uploads/3/9/7/9/39792537/homelite_xl-901_xl-903_xl-904_chainsaw_ipl_24229.pdf The sales records from chainsawlady's shop show some XL-903's close to that serial number sold in early 1969, so that's likely your model year. The suffix box was not always used and when it was I believe it was typically stamped. It sounds like you need a full carb rebuild. I'm not familiar with what that pinhole might be, be I suspect that there is a missing or incorrectly installed gasket. If fuel is making it to the carb to leak, but it won't run, your inlet needle is likely stuck and not letting fuel get to the metering side of the carburetor. At least that's where I'd start. Good luck and keep us posted! |
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Post by Deleted on Jul 13, 2017 20:01:16 GMT -5
Well Acre's site has some errors and this is one of them. Check out this IPL and it is pretty clear that the XL-901 is a manual oiler only. www.leonschainsawpartsandrepair.com/uploads/3/9/7/9/39792537/homelite_xl-901_xl-903_xl-904_chainsaw_ipl_24229.pdf The sales records from chainsawlady's shop show some XL-903's close to that serial number sold in early 1969, so that's likely your model year. The suffix box was not always used and when it was I believe it was typically stamped. It sounds like you need a full carb rebuild. I'm not familiar with what that pinhole might be, be I suspect that there is a missing or incorrectly installed gasket. If fuel is making it to the carb to leak, but it won't run, your inlet needle is likely stuck and not letting fuel get to the metering side of the carburetor. At least that's where I'd start. Good luck and keep us posted! I really appreciate the advice, I was thinking it was a carb issue and will order a carb kit and follow instructions in the Homelite Shop Manual 3rd edition. It looks pretty straight forward and for a saw of this age I would expect it needed a kit. In the condition its in its well worth the time and effort, but it does bother me that the man I bought it from claimed that it ran strong and was easy to start, neither of those proved true, but its all good, I'll sort it out. |
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Post by Deleted on Jul 13, 2017 20:17:49 GMT -5
Is the XL-850 a manual or automatic oiler?
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Post by Deleted on Jul 13, 2017 20:47:53 GMT -5
Okay, I found a picture of a saw an its obviously not a XL-901, but the the black hose on the left side of the carb is missing on my saw, can you tell me what this is for? Thanks  |
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Post by undee70ss on Jul 14, 2017 0:26:20 GMT -5
Is the XL-850 a manual or automatic oiler? Both. Automatic with manual override.   |
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Post by Deleted on Jul 14, 2017 6:36:21 GMT -5
Gas is coming from this orifice circled in red on my saw 
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Post by onlyhomelites on Jul 14, 2017 8:08:38 GMT -5
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Post by Deleted on Sept 15, 2017 21:47:07 GMT -5
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Post by onlyhomelites on Sept 15, 2017 23:19:25 GMT -5
That's the one!
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Post by Deleted on Sept 16, 2017 19:20:28 GMT -5
I took the check valve out with a 1/4" drive ratchet and 5/16" socket. there is no ball, you can see right through it??? I don't believe its supposed to be like that. I didn't have to take the handle off, but it was tight! I noticed the muffler was real loose so I started to remove the muffler cover to get at the mounting screws. I removed the two screws on one side no problem, but the single shoulder screw on the other side just spun and would not back out. I pried and used vise grips, nothing doing, so I took a small flat head and enlarged the muffler cover around the screw head by prying the metal enough to let it slide over the screw head. I was able to pry the baffle up enough to see the issue, the built in nut had come loose, so I used a small 3/8" open head wrench to hold the nut while I turned the screw, it came out and I tightened the muffler. I epoxy welded (probably wont hold) the nut back on. If it comes loose again I'll buy a new muffler and use lock tight. I repaired the enlarged hole by flattening it back out and will use a flat washer under the screw head. Back to the check valve, I covered the hole with tape but could not get the saw to fire unless I shot mix gas in the carb. I do have a carb kit for it, but I would like to know what's wrong before I start screwing around with things. Thanks, Alain |
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Post by undee70ss on Sept 16, 2017 20:17:52 GMT -5
I'm not sure why I am missing replies, but I'm glad I came back and revisited this thread. Thank you very much for the advice, Use the recent posts link to see all recent posts. houseofhomelite.proboards.com/threads/recent |
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Post by onlyhomelites on Sept 16, 2017 21:30:51 GMT -5
Hi Alain,
The check valve should have a duckbill valve in it, so you'll either have to split that part open or replace it. Unfortunately the muffler nuts are known to do that. When you re-assemble, use some anti-seize on those cover bolts, it does help prevent that. Locktite is good on the screws that hold the body to the cylinder, but Locktite is probably part of why the cover screw wouldn't come loose, so don't use it there. It's a really safe bet that if the saw has good spark and compression that you just need a new fuel hose and a carburetor rebuild.
Keep us posted!
Leon
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Post by Deleted on Sept 16, 2017 22:30:51 GMT -5
Hi Alain, The check valve should have a duckbill valve in it, so you'll either have to split that part open or replace it. Unfortunately the muffler nuts are known to do that. When you re-assemble, use some anti-seize on those cover bolts, it does help prevent that. Locktite is good on the screws that hold the body to the cylinder, but Locktite is probably part of why the cover screw wouldn't come loose, so don't use it there. It's a really safe bet that if the saw has good spark and compression that you just need a new fuel hose and a carburetor rebuild. Keep us posted! Leon My arm and shoulder says it has good compression, the spark tester says it has spark. Yep, I think my problems are fuel related. I'll order the duck bill valve and start going over the carb rebuild instructions in the service manual, at least I have the kit. I'll take your advice on the muffler. Thanks, Alain |
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Post by Deleted on Sept 17, 2017 22:04:49 GMT -5
I am going to tell on myself and show what a buffoon I am while I was working on this XL-901. I was ready to tear apart the carb (Walbro SDC) and re-kit it, but I think after Leon sends me the new duck bill valve, muffler cover, and the fuel line, I JUST ordered, it might run fine. The rubber fuel line going to the carb is flatter than a converse tennis shoe lace. I'm a newbie, but that's not a good excuse, but at least I did find one BIG problem before I tackled another possible problem. BTW, I ordered the wrong carb kit anyway. I bought the K10-HDC which I think fits EZ/Super EZ, my XL-901 carb is a Walbro SDC-9 and I think it takes kit K10-SDC
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Post by sweepleader on Sept 18, 2017 6:35:06 GMT -5
Newbie or not, sounds like standard happenings to me! Chainsaws are fun, keep repeating that, eh? :{)
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