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Post by zuren on Aug 20, 2016 20:40:36 GMT -5
Hello All, I'm a new member and new to Homelite saws. I'm about to take possession of a Homelite LX-30 Bandit and I know nothing about the saw other than it runs and has had minor maintenance performed (new fuel lines, etc.). I'm not sure what size bar it will be coming with but my plan is to run a 12". I wanted a small saw to get into tight, brushy areas but don't have a lot of cash so a fellow chainsaw enthusiast on another site offered this saw to me if I paid for shipping. I was playing with the idea of a small rear handle saw or a top handle when this LX-30 was offered. What is there to know about this family of saws and this specific model? I'm not certain on the model year. I do know it has the "duck bill" oiler and have read about guys converting over to the automatic oiler. It also needs a chain. Thanks for any help! 
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Post by undee70ss on Aug 21, 2016 21:47:57 GMT -5
Post the UT number and serial number and we can tell you when it was made. it looks to have a 14 bar in the pic. I seen the post on AS the site. It is basically a copy of the Homelite 180/XL series. Should take 3/8 lopro chain.
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Post by onlyhomelites on Aug 22, 2016 7:09:25 GMT -5
That color LX-30 should have an automatic oiler. The pulse line attaches to the engine; as long as the duckbill is in good shape and the oil flow rate valve isn't clogged, you should be good to go. If the the saw won't oil, but all else appears good, I'd pull the valve and flush it with some ATF or similar thin solution that will clean it out. Just don't used compressed air...it will blow apart and replacements are difficult to find.
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Post by Deleted on May 13, 2018 19:54:05 GMT -5
Well I haven't used my little Bandit, just put a new chain on, went with the "yellow" stihl anyway after that I have found I don't believe it is oiling. I replaced the line from the flow control valve down to the bar mount. The other lines look good, the duckbill in the tank looks good and the screen on the supply line looks good. I'm not even getting oil up to the flow control. I've read a lot saying the oil pressures from crankcase and even seen pics of this. But mine has a line run from the carb into the oil tank. Is this the problem, should it not be there or should I look for something else?
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Post by rowdy235 on May 14, 2018 23:03:36 GMT -5
[I'm not especially familiar with these saws so take the following with a grain of salt]
On super 2's there are actually two kinds of oiling systems. One is very simple and has a pulse line feeding the oil tank and an outlet to the bar. The duckbill acts as a one way valve and pressurizes the oil tank to push oil onto the bar. From the description it sounds like this is the system the LX30's have (or should have). The most common failure are hoses and tank caps. Get the saw running and cut the power, immediately pull the oil cap, should be some pressure coming out. If not, something is not allowing it to pressurize. Could be a plugged hose, bad cap, hairline crack in the tank, etc. These systems are incredibly simple. Provided the tanks pressurizing and the hoses are not restricted, it will oil!
The other system uses a diaphragm pump on the crankcase to pump the oil. This system will have the outlet line of the tank going to the crankcase, but it also has a pulse line like the other to assist the oil getting to the pump. However, the pump regulates the flow of the oil. There will be a line coming from the crankcase and going to the bar. Obviously these have a lot more points of failure.
I'd get a look at your oil lines and where they're running and go from there. Good luck!
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Post by undee70ss on May 14, 2018 23:19:43 GMT -5
[I'm not especially familiar with these saws so take the following with a grain of salt] On super 2's there are actually two kinds of oiling systems. One is very simple and has a pulse line feeding the oil tank and an outlet to the bar. That system was never used on a Super 2 from Homelite, but one could convert and use this. |
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Post by rowdy235 on May 14, 2018 23:25:39 GMT -5
Interesting. Well on one of my super 2s I believe somebody beat me to the conversion then! lol
Hijack over!
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Post by undee70ss on May 14, 2018 23:33:49 GMT -5
Well I haven't used my little Bandit, just put a new chain on, went with the "yellow" stihl anyway after that I have found I don't believe it is oiling. I replaced the line from the flow control valve down to the bar mount. The other lines look good, the duckbill in the tank looks good and the screen on the supply line looks good. I'm not even getting oil up to the flow control. I've read a lot saying the oil pressures from crankcase and even seen pics of this. But mine has a line run from the carb into the oil tank. Is this the problem, should it not be there or should I look for something else? Do you have a pressure tester? I have not worked on this particular model, but the line from the carb is probably the pulse line. Pull line from flow control valve, apply several psi to pulse line, pressure should drop slowly and oil should flow. If pressure drops fast, no oil flow, look for leaks around lines in tank or a leaking cap. Also check to make sure lines are on correctly. Leon has a post where is the lines are reversed on flow control valve oil will never flow. |
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Post by Deleted on May 18, 2018 20:02:43 GMT -5
Well I haven't used my little Bandit, just put a new chain on, went with the "yellow" stihl anyway after that I have found I don't believe it is oiling. I replaced the line from the flow control valve down to the bar mount. The other lines look good, the duckbill in the tank looks good and the screen on the supply line looks good. I'm not even getting oil up to the flow control. I've read a lot saying the oil pressures from crankcase and even seen pics of this. But mine has a line run from the carb into the oil tank. Is this the problem, should it not be there or should I look for something else? Do you have a pressure tester? I have not worked on this particular model, but the line from the carb is probably the pulse line. Pull line from flow control valve, apply several psi to pulse line, pressure should drop slowly and oil should flow. If pressure drops fast, no oil flow, look for leaks around lines in tank or a leaking cap. Also check to make sure lines are on correctly. Leon has a post where is the lines are reversed on flow control valve oil will never flow. Well I put my pressure tester on the pulse line and got oil from the line going to the flow control valve. Hooked the line back up to the valve and nothing. I figured easiest thing would be swap the lines as you said they can only be hooked one way and well...exactly right. Got oil flow to the bar...with pressure tester anyway. Once I get it all back together I will see how it works. Thanks again |
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Post by zuren on Nov 8, 2018 1:00:04 GMT -5
I started this thread then quickly became consumed by life, but I'm back now and hoping to tinker with this little saw more...
Since I posted, I received the saw and proceeded to clean it up and assess it. I ended up installing the following parts:
- new tank caps
- new bar plate
- new bar and chain (NOS Sanvik 12" with Stihl chain)
- new knuckle/hand guard
- new spark plug
- new air filter
- replaced the bolts that hold the engine in the case with new ones and a dab of blue Locktite; one bolt was missing, the others were in rough shape and kept vibrating loose
I'm mostly pleased! It definitely starts harder than I would like but I still need to play with the carb a little. I was noticing that there was a spot in the recoil that was "missing" when I pulled the cord, so I have a new recoil pulley on the way. The cord had difficulty retracting as well, so the spring may need an extra twist or 3.
To answer some questions above:
- UT# - 10705B
- Serial# - (xx)243193 (the "xx" are unreadable characters in the serial number since the label is damaged)
A couple questions:
- What is the max RPM this little saw should to tuned to at WOT? I'm planning to buy a tachometer and tune all 3 of my saws.
- Are there muffler mods to help this engine breathe?
Thanks!
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Post by undee70ss on Nov 8, 2018 2:06:25 GMT -5
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Post by sweepleader on Nov 8, 2018 7:47:14 GMT -5
Welcome back to the House of Homelite! Sounds like you are having fun with the saw now.
The damaged sn may not matter, it looks to me like the tail end of it says that it is one of the in between saws that are tough to date.
Do be careful winding extra turns on the starter spring. If you get it too tight and then pull the rope all the way out, you will likely break something. Be sure there is more spring available when the rope is all the way out. That way you will break the rope first. If the spring is weak, it may need to be replaced and winding extra might not help. Be sure to clean it well of any oil or grease, I like to lube springs with graphite to prevent gunk from building up and causing drag.
You can check if gunk is the problem but shooting some lite oil/solvent into the spring and trying it. If it retracts that way, it needs to be cleaned to allow it to do its job.
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Post by zuren on Nov 8, 2018 10:37:36 GMT -5
 I don't see the LX-30 specifically mentioned, but it looks like if I go by the XL/XL-2 numbers, I should be safe. It looks like "+" notation for the RPMs means no bar and chain when setting the high speed screw? |
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Post by zuren on Nov 8, 2018 10:40:34 GMT -5
Welcome back to the House of Homelite! Sounds like you are having fun with the saw now. The damaged sn may not matter, it looks to me like the tail end of it says that it is one of the in between saws that are tough to date. Do be careful winding extra turns on the starter spring. If you get it too tight and then pull the rope all the way out, you will likely break something. Be sure there is more spring available when the rope is all the way out. That way you will break the rope first. If the spring is weak, it may need to be replaced and winding extra might not help. Be sure to clean it well of any oil or grease, I like to lube springs with graphite to prevent gunk from building up and causing drag. You can check if gunk is the problem but shooting some lite oil/solvent into the spring and trying it. If it retracts that way, it needs to be cleaned to allow it to do its job. There was definitely a lot of gummy, oily grime in the spring and pulley, so maybe it simply needs a good cleaning and the new pulley (2-3 of the teeth were worn badly). The pull cord is pretty worn as well; would a generic replacement chainsaw pull cord work fine? |
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Post by undee70ss on Nov 8, 2018 11:49:10 GMT -5
Yes, use the XL/XL2 numbers. I don’t use a tach, just by ear. Have it 4 stroke with no load, and run smooth under load. Always err on the rich side as to lean will cause engine damage, piston scoring.
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Post by undee70ss on Nov 8, 2018 11:56:15 GMT -5
Yes, generic replacement chainsaw pull cord. 46 inches of I believe “4” rope.
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Post by zuren on Oct 26, 2020 13:01:06 GMT -5
Update 26OCT2020: I know this thread is a little old but wanted to give an update. After playing with the saw initially and cleaning a couple things up, I was having trouble with it running right after it was warm, so it has sat on the shelf for most of my ownership with it. Most of the time it would stall and I couldn't get it restarted for the life of me. Kept playing with the carb adjustment and could never get it right. I finally bought a compression tester and made a note of the specs listed above. I found that while cold, it tested at 90PSI. After I got it started, warmed it up, and it stalled, it was at 85PSI. Those numbers are way too low. I can't see anything through the exhaust port or the spark plug hole. So it seems that I'm at a crossroads. Is this saw worth dismantling the engine and replacing the head and rings? I've never opened an engine like this. I see that heads are available on Ebay, but they're used at around $20. I'm assuming I can find rings. I mostly use my chainsaws for storm clean-up and I'm battling an over-abundance of invasive buckthorn on my land, so I get into brushy areas and use a short bar. Unless the LX-30 is still considered a valuable saw, my thought is I part out/sell this LX-30, maybe sell my old green Poulan 2025 (11.5 lbs.) and buy an Echo CS-361P (8.4 lbs.). I also have a Poulan Pro PP5020 with a 18" bar for the rare, bigger stuff. So I would be going from 3 saws (2 that are heavy but run, 1 doesn't run) to 2 running saws (with 1 being very light). Thanks! |
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