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Post by louielouieohoh on Dec 19, 2015 2:49:44 GMT -5
I've read quite a bit about the study of the XLs and their colors (Reds). I found the colors below while serfing the net on this board and others ... #1 is Dupli Color DE1605 Engine Paint a.k.a. Ford Red (O'Reilly Auto Parts) #2 is Krylon BD1822 Massey Ferguson Red (Tractor Supply) #3 is Dupli Color DE1620 Engine Paint a.k.a. Chevy Engine Orange (Autozone) #4 is just thrown in there for good looks ... another tidbit: VHT is a division of Dupli Color is a division of Sherwin Williams I'm thinking the Ford Red (DE1605) might be the ticket ... has anyone else tried it? The MF appears to be a little dark. Has anyone ever asked Homelite directly what the HEX value of the part number of the paint (23475) ... I heard the original paint was. (ahem!) toxic and therefore eliminated (you know how the left pushes hard).  |
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Post by sawnami on Dec 19, 2015 10:46:46 GMT -5
Chevrolet Orange-Red DE1607 compared to a pre-painted factory OEM compression clip on my Super 2100. Attachments:
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Post by louielouieohoh on Dec 19, 2015 11:07:27 GMT -5
Cool! ... What year is your 2100?
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Post by louielouieohoh on Dec 19, 2015 14:43:14 GMT -5
The RRGGBB is actually Hex code ... in HTML computer terms and can be converted to decimal format, CMYK, and other color formats.
RGB ...
Six digits in the HEX code format.
First two represent Red.
Second two Green.
Third two digits represents Blue.
000000 is no color (white).
FFFFFF is all colors full on (black)
Each pair has 256 different values ... 00,01,02,03, ... 99,A0,A1,A2, ... ,FF.
Total possible color combinations 16,777,216.
Therefore DE1605 Duplicolor (Ford Red) at O'reillys auto parts
and DE1607 Duplicolor (Chevrolet Orange-Red) at O'reillys auto parts
are almost indistinguishable to the naked eye (at least on a computer).
But who knows how well and consistently they are mixed at the factory ...
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Post by louielouieohoh on Dec 19, 2015 15:29:55 GMT -5
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Post by louielouieohoh on Dec 19, 2015 20:35:28 GMT -5
Soooooo ...
The red paint is listed as part number 23475 ... NLA (No Longer Available).
Has anyone ever called Homelite and asked for the color specs (RGB, CMYK or other color format)
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Post by indianajohn on Dec 19, 2015 21:29:20 GMT -5
I'd be interested in whatever you find out. I have some places that need touched up on my 81 360 Auto. Please keep us updated.
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Post by sawnami on Dec 20, 2015 7:15:38 GMT -5
Cool! ... What year is your 2100? Thank you. It was made on Wednesday, May 23rd 1973. |
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Post by louielouieohoh on Dec 20, 2015 15:43:08 GMT -5
I'd be interested in whatever you find out. I have some places that need touched up on my 81 360 Auto. Please keep us updated. John, I worked up a color layout on my XL-12/SXLAO saw... Its a 1981. My Dad and I bought our saws a year apart ... I just put both saws together to make one :") Appears to me that either DE1605 or DE1607 will work ... might need to paint the whole saw as they're not exact matches but close. I'm going to call Homelite tomorrow. Maybe they can shed some "lite" on the true red/orange color (Part number 23475). I measured a spot on my saw got an array of colors (lighting etc. effects it) and got E4100F as a close match. See attachment. I'm learning as I go ... Attachments:
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Post by sawnami on Dec 21, 2015 8:16:02 GMT -5
You can take a housing that has the color that you desire to an automotive paint supplier and they can analyze it with their color spectrometer and mix an exact match. Around here it's around $20-25 for a spray can.
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Post by louielouieohoh on Dec 21, 2015 12:50:44 GMT -5
Got that ... has anyone done that and did they get the color analysis printed out? ... tells the exact color. I'd like to be able to share that.
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Post by Supercharged86 on Dec 22, 2015 7:59:05 GMT -5
You can take a housing that has the color that you desire to an automotive paint supplier and they can analyze it with their color spectrometer and mix an exact match. Around here it's around $20-25 for a spray can. I was thinking I should do this exact thing, take it down to a body shop guy I know. The part with the best color that I've found is on the inside of the starter cover or deep inside an the inner side of the gas tank. Although these places get dirty they're not influenced by the sun, gasoline, etc. I just wonder if the surface area is larger enough or flat enough for the scanner tool? |
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Post by louielouieohoh on Dec 22, 2015 17:16:34 GMT -5
I took the "drive side plate" off of my XL-12 (Red) ... (IPL #23817 part number 48 on page 5). Then took it down to Sherwin Williams ... they were able to scan it on the edge (underneath below the bar mount, see picture).  They were able to scan it just fine ... only problem was, he couldn't scan for auto paint ...just house paint ... thanks kiddo. Searching for an auto paint store now. |
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Post by louielouieohoh on Jan 1, 2016 11:56:01 GMT -5
Found a pump repair guy in town who will sand blast my saw ... the journey begins.
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Post by louielouieohoh on Feb 20, 2016 12:58:38 GMT -5
Sand blasting finally done ... can't complain that it took so long ... he did it as a favor ... now I owe him ... I was wondering if I need to do a primer base coat that is self etching ... because it was sand blasted, it's quite rough and might hold high temp paint good enough. Not a show saw. Any thoughts out there?    |
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Post by sweepleader on Feb 20, 2016 13:28:38 GMT -5
What do I know? Have yet to paint my first saw, BUT... (Ever heard that before?) I plan to use a self etching zinc chromate primer if I can find one. Aluminum and magnesium oxidize in minutes when they are unprotected, much too fast to clean and paint in time. The oxide layer is not well bonded to the metal so the paint sticks to the oxide and they both fall off. Ever seen a flaky Homelite? They were not primed. Oh, I will wash the whole thing as very best I can, scrub with hot soap and water, rinse, dry with pressure air and heat, then prime, all in one session. Then I will apply air tight automotive paint to prevent air and moisture getting through pores. Primer is not air tight. :{) Check this link, there are quite a few stories: houseofhomelite.proboards.com/board/23/painting-restoration |
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Post by sawnami on Feb 20, 2016 20:32:34 GMT -5
I didn't get fancy and painted this one the Homelite way. I did let the paint cure for about 4 months before putting it to use. Before  After  |
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Post by lesorubcheek on Feb 20, 2016 22:16:00 GMT -5
Sawnami, every time I see that 2100 it brings a smile, and seeing the before and after gives even a bigger smile. That's one nice job!
Homelite paint matching has been a quest that ended without conclusion for myself. A few years ago, started trying to make heads or tales outa what the deal was with paint and how to get a suitable match. There's an obvious difference between the earlier deep red ( saws like a C7, or the vertical Ds and Gs) and the orangish red that seemed to replace it sometime around the early 70s. The Ferguson red did a pretty good job matching the earlier deep red color. Problem was, the saws and parts that were the orangish red didn't match, even between each other! Sun fade is one thing, but talking about parts that are NOS or back sides that have almost no fading and between them you could see maybe 4 or 5 varying shades, all slightly different depending on the sample. Probably the most frustrating thing is trying to assemble a saw from NOS parts and you end up with noticeably different shades of color on different pieces.
Only conclusion I arrived at was different parts were painted slightly different shades depending on the batch when it was made. If you're going to strip and paint the entire saw, just do it. Really don't believe there is a "right" color. I once thought there must be, but not so much anymore. If the whole saw is painted from the same can of paint, it'll look fine. For an off the shelf can, I personally like the ford red for "newer" saws. Getting a batch made by scanning at a paint store is even better, but I've found that to be a bit expensive, at least in these parts. Good luck and I'm sure whatever color you use will look great on the XL!
Dan
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Post by sawnami on Feb 20, 2016 23:16:25 GMT -5
Thank you for the kind comments Dan. I had the red on my 990D color matched the other day. It turned out that there was a RAL color called Orient Red that it matched. The two part clear and the red base coat ran $60. Still have to get the green color matched.  |
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Post by louielouieohoh on Feb 25, 2016 19:53:51 GMT -5
OK ... I just painted it ... No primer no nothing ... Just Engine paint (cause we're gonna cut with this baby!) ... Dupli-color Ford Red.   |
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