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Post by modestmouser on Oct 4, 2008 23:13:25 GMT -5
Hello to everyone. I just bought a Homelite c5 on craigslist. It's got an 18" bar with a 0.050" chain. It's my understanding that this mega-machine has got a 77cc engine in it, and that's why I bought it. I'm going to be ripping a large walnut log into boards with an Alaskan Sawmill jig. I would like to upgrade this c5 to a 25" bar or so in order to accomodate the full width of the log. I can't figure out what replacement bars will fit my chainsaw though. I was reading through a thread on here about some XL bars physically fitting the bolt pattern, but then they would obscure the oiler for the bar or something. The nameplate on my saw is pretty much gone, so I am unable to ascertain what the UT# is, and some chainsaw parts places refuse to help me without the UT#. I was looking at this 32" bar/chain combo for $67. cgi.ebay.com/32-BAR-CHAIN-POULAN-HOMELITE-CHAINSAW-SUPER-XL-12-AO_W0QQitemZ200207234544QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item200207234544&_trkparms=72%3A1205|39%3A1|66%3A2|65%3A12|240%3A1318&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14Ideally, i'd have a ripping chain for this operation, but in order to save money, I figure i'll just go slowly. So... any idear what chainsaw bars in the 25-32" range would fit my Homelite c5? I really appreciate your help.. Thanks, Steve
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Post by RandyMac on Oct 5, 2008 0:01:11 GMT -5
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Post by MCS on Oct 6, 2008 8:36:14 GMT -5
Just what is an Alaskan Sawmill and could we see a picture? Not knowing anything about this, wouldn't you need a saw with automatic oiling? As far as the bar, I used to work on a lot of C's but I can't remember if the XL-12 style bar will work, but here is an idea. Find a bar that has the right bolt slot and if the oiler hole doesn't match quite right, take a dremel tool and grind a narrow slot in the side so they connect. Another things: The XL bars are .050 and the standard C was .063. If you use a sprocket nose bar, it has to match your drive sprocket. If the saw has an Oregon Drum then your in luck because you can change the rim to match the bar.
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Post by modestmouser on Oct 6, 2008 9:39:06 GMT -5
thank you for your replies.. i did start thinking that i could probably drill a hole or enlarge an existing whole in the bar with a highspeed steel bit. hopefully it centers ok. The next thing I'm worried about is making sure that the chain on the bar/chain combo i get matches the sprocket doohickey that comes out of the engine. the existing chain has the number "370" on the inside cog/tooth that rides inside the bar and mates with the drive sprocket doohickey. Not sure what that means. Anyone? Alaskan sawmills are great! here's a link to what they look like www.toolcenter.com/ALASKAN_MKIII_CHAIN_SAW_MILL.htmlAnd here's a link to one being used www.youtube.com/watch?v=SP9ZJufBFiwThank you all for your help!
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Post by MCS on Oct 6, 2008 11:25:06 GMT -5
My guess for the 370 is .375 pitch (3/8") and .050 drive link thickness. There are many numbering schemes - each manufacturer has their own. Real saw chain comes in three gauges: .050", .058" and .063". You can measure the gauge of the bar groove with feeler gauges if you want to check it. You can measure the pitch of the chain too. Measure the distance between any three rivets and divide by two. If your setup has 3/8" x .050 chain then it is not a standard setup for the C and the bar. I'm pretty sure the C 5 ran .404 pitch chain either .058 or .063 gauge but I may be wrong.
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