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Post by mikevan on Oct 3, 2008 17:45:45 GMT -5
I had some carb issues this spring with it, when you hit the throttle, it would die. Does it again now, if you don't play with the trigger, it'll just stall. At wide open, if you can get it there, it's fine. Had the carb apart a few times this spring before doing a complete kit, cleaning, etc. Right now, I'm looking for a good used Walbro SDC 1 to replace it with. This is the one with the accel. pump on the side. ANY help or tips always appreciated!
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Post by lawnmowertech37 on Oct 3, 2008 21:48:36 GMT -5
A64196 is the carb #
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Post by MCS on Oct 6, 2008 13:32:44 GMT -5
How are you adjusting the mixture? At high RPM the saw should miss with no load, if it doesn't, it's too lean on the high circuit. Set the idle mixture for best RPM and the speed just below chain travel then turn the idle mixture CCW - richer - 1/4 turn. Let me know what happens.
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Post by mikevan on Oct 6, 2008 16:05:19 GMT -5
a7, I'll give it a try tomorrow - Too tired right now, been in the woods all day & my 57 year old ass is dragging.
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Post by mikevan on Oct 10, 2008 15:30:00 GMT -5
Had a few minutes last night, reset both needles to 1 turn out - Started & ran fine. Got in the woods this A.M., same settings, same old hesitation? Opened the idle mix screw a little, & was fine. Half hour later, same thing again. By the time I quit, I'd had to adjust a few more times or keep the choke pulled 1/4" Something won't stay set or changes on it's own. Adjusting the carb seems to cure it, but only for awhile. GRRRRRRRRRRR  |
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Post by mikevan on Oct 10, 2008 16:57:42 GMT -5
No, they're pretty snug in there, going through that rubber spacer/seal thing.
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Post by MCS on Oct 10, 2008 20:09:21 GMT -5
All position carburetors are really are not that complicated and I know you said you this on apart. This one is a little different in that it has the accelerator pump. This pump is only active when the throttle is in the full open position because the pulse that operates it passed though an indexing hole in the throttle shaft. The gas pulse from the accelerator pump enters the carburetor through the main jet. I am assuming you have a good fuel line, not mushy, and new filter. Both adjustment screws should have a spring to eliminate changes from vibration. You didn't say anything about trying different settings for the high circuit. The book recommends 1 to 1 1/4 turns open to start with so start there and start with the idle at 1 1/4 turns. By the way, that accelerator pump should have a spring on the carburetor side.
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Post by mikevan on Oct 10, 2008 20:23:47 GMT -5
All position carburetors are really are not that complicated and I know you said you this on apart. This one is a little different in that it has the accelerator pump. This pump is only active when the throttle is in the full open position because the pulse that operates it passed though an indexing hole in the throttle shaft. The gas pulse from the accelerator pump enters the carburetor through the main jet. I am assuming you have a good fuel line, not mushy, and new filter. Both adjustment screws should have a spring to eliminate changes from vibration. You didn't say anything about trying different settings for the high circuit. The book recommends 1 to 1 1/4 turns open to start with so start there and start with the idle at 1 1/4 turns. By the way, that accelerator pump should have a spring on the carburetor side. Yes & yes, not sure, Yes & yes......... The fuel filter is the not sure, I'm remembering I just carb cleanered it & reverse blew it out with comp. air. It's a cheap fix, I'll try a new one. Something like this just bugs the crap out of me 'till it's right......Thanks a7 |
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Post by mikevan on Dec 17, 2008 17:16:39 GMT -5
Hopefully, this problem is behind me -  I picked up a XL 102 carb on ebay, 12.00 buy it now - Put a rebuild kit in it, changed carbs last night & it seems pretty good. The old one's got a problem somewhere, when I'd get it so it was running good & accelerating without the miss, it would race & high idle for 5 to 10 seconds after letting off the trigger, before dropping down to where the chain wouldn't turn. Lowering the idle set screw would just let it stall. Something's out of wack or loose, or floating around in the original Walbro, I just don't know what. It may go on top of a fence post so I can see if the .223 is still accurate at 200 yards - ;D |
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Post by MCS on Dec 19, 2008 23:07:33 GMT -5
The problem with using a .223 is it could go right through the venturi and not do any damage. What about a .460 Whby You could also mail it to me and I'll try it on my 101. Maybe we could all learn from it? |
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Post by mikevan on Dec 20, 2008 6:32:09 GMT -5
a7, I'd be happy to mail it out to you if you want to do an autopsy on it - Before it's been shot of course. I would like it back though, with 3 saws that take the same carb, I can always use parts from it. PM me your address if you want -
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Post by honkie on Dec 24, 2008 22:32:22 GMT -5
My xl I just rebuilt did the same thing, but with the tilloston hs carb. Put in a kit and the same thing, had to "blip" the throttle to keep the saw from loading up and stalling. Took the carb apart agian, and found that the inlet control lever was out of whack, allowing the inlet needle to let to much gas in and load the saw up on WOT. Adjusted the lever and everything ran like clockwork.
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