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Post by vonwolfen on Sept 15, 2008 18:32:25 GMT -5
I am new to the board. I have tried to search previous posts for an answer, but couldn't find it....or possibly missed it. I have an ol blue SXL with manual oiler. It has a Tilly carb and has been a good performer. Last year the fuel line gave way and I used some plastic tubing and a grommet to get her back in service. This year she was running fair, then she decided to konk out. I later learned that a nice neighbor was messing with her while I was using another saw, and reset the carb adjustments. I can get her to idle, sometimes, sometimes not. I know it sounds silly, but I don't have the info to reset the adjustment screws to a reasonable setting to get a start at correct settings. These adjustment screws go "in" to the carb when turned clockwise. I'd appreciate any help at getting a startng point.
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Post by OBR on Sept 15, 2008 19:28:32 GMT -5
Turn both the high speed and low speed screws in until lightly seated, then turn each screw back out 1 full turn. This should allow you to get it running for fine tuning. Disreguard the big screw until you go to set idle speed.
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Post by vonwolfen on Sept 15, 2008 19:51:18 GMT -5
Thanks obr....I gave it a try and didn't have any luck, so I must have another problem(s). I've decarboned the exhaust sytem, put in a new plug, checked the spark and checked for positive fuel flow. I can get an idle and about a 50% run-up with the HS adjustment set 4 turns out and the LS at 2. It seems to only want to do that when fairly cold and with the choke at 50%. It seems to run out of fuel after about 10 seconds, but I'm not certain that is fact. I'll have to do a bit of head scratchin' on this!
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Post by mikevan on Sept 15, 2008 20:10:30 GMT -5
Sounds to me that you don't have enough fuel when you need it [ above idle, no full throttle] Also needing the choke means starving or lean. There's a fine mesh screen just inside the carb, these sometimes plug. Could be a good time for a good diss-assembly, cleaning & new carb kit.
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Post by vonwolfen on Sept 15, 2008 20:45:18 GMT -5
Thanks.....I'll take a shot at cleaning the carb....and try to research a kit for it. mikevan, is the mesh screen just inside the fuel entry block or elsewhere?
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Post by MCS on Sept 15, 2008 22:07:43 GMT -5
Do you have a new fuel filter installed? This is one of most common problems aside from a mushy fuel line. You said you replaced the line with some vinyl line but you don't mention the filter. The filter will get hard and prevent fuel flow.
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Post by sugarcreeksaws on Sept 15, 2008 22:22:53 GMT -5
Hi Vonwolfen, The SXL was one of my first Homelites....still a great saw to use. For carb kits, I always go to www.mfgsupply.com. The kit you will need is under Tillotson kits, kit # 38-1544. If you want to do a full rebuild, the kit# is 38-3644. I have used these kits on my SXLs and had no problems. I agree with Mike.....if the fuel filter popped off or went bad, there is a good chance that you have a dirty screen inside the carb.....I had an XL-12 that was doing the same thing....popped the top off the carb and it was obvious the screen was dirty! Hope that helps! Talk to you soon! Joe
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Post by vonwolfen on Sept 15, 2008 22:24:51 GMT -5
Well, you caught me. The old fuel line was without a filter as is my makeshift one. I'm thinking any of the good newer filters with the right diameter should work, but I may be wrong. I could steal the one out of my Super 2, but it is the only saw running right now. My one year old Stihl just sprung a leak in the rubber fuel line, so I'm gonna work on ol blue, and use the Super 2, if she holds up! Did you know that a 14" Stihl bar and chain work perfectly on an old 16" Super 2! Amazing the rigging going on around here right now!
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Post by MCS on Sept 16, 2008 17:33:02 GMT -5
Yup, the end of the fuel line has to be in the gas The original fuel filter that hung on the end of the fuel line was about an 1" long and had a felt filter over it. I have about 6 of these filters but not the core. I've used some after market filters but they seem a little light so I wrap some solid core solder around the fuel line where it connects with the filter for weight. Also adds some lead to the gas
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angel
Collector
Posts: 75
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Post by angel on Sept 21, 2008 13:40:01 GMT -5
ahh, you have some old 50/50 solder, that stuff is illegal here methinks. I learned to solder using that stuff when I was 15, it flows really nice.
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Post by MCS on Sept 21, 2008 21:20:49 GMT -5
It is illegal to solder copper water pipes with anything but lead free solder. You can still use it for metal repair and adding weight to Super XL fuel filters.
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angel
Collector
Posts: 75
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Post by angel on Sept 21, 2008 22:05:46 GMT -5
I know guys that do all-copper gutters and high-end copper plate roof repairs use lead solder sticks all the time. It'd be good to add weight to a uel filter, wouldn't the plastic ones tend to float a bit?
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Post by edgeandengine on Sept 23, 2008 8:11:38 GMT -5
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Post by MCS on Sept 23, 2008 12:20:16 GMT -5
I'm relying on my memory but I think there were basically two sizes of this style filter. The XL12/SXL/XL9xx etc used one that was slightly larger than the XL100 line of saws and the early 150's. Maybe the fuel line size was different. Anyway, is the link above for the XL12 size? I think the filter element was part # 59253A or something close to that. My parts books are at my cabin.
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Post by edgeandengine on Sept 23, 2008 19:48:56 GMT -5
I'm relying on my memory but I think there were basically two sizes of this style filter. The XL12/SXL/XL9xx etc used one that was slightly larger than the XL100 line of saws and the early 150's. Maybe the fuel line size was different. Anyway, is the link above for the XL12 size? I think the filter element was part # 59253A or something close to that. My parts books are at my cabin. That is the one that is used on the Super XL/XL-12.
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Post by vonwolfen on Sept 23, 2008 19:54:22 GMT -5
I might as well order the fuel line, I definitely need one.....what is the correct part number for that larger line?
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