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Post by quiverpup on Sept 8, 2008 0:44:31 GMT -5
hi folks. GREAT site.had to join.i have been bitten hard by homelite bug.was given a cs-40.hated it.gave it away. ditto for a 23-av. plastic crap,both of em. then i got a freebie sxl ao.was beat up but i pulled muffler and saw shiny nice things.cleaned and gapped points,dumped tanks and refilled and was off and running! LOVE the sound and the saw.was also given a 360,have not messed with that much yet,needs a new bar.it runs though and well.anyway, im hooked now and was talking to a friend today about my new obsession.he goes in garage and comes out with a blue 150. says it wont run,make it go away! took it home,pulled it apart, cleaned it up and after taking it apart again to clean carb(stuck needle) it runs fine! ;D my question after rambling on is this-the oiler does not seem to work.when tanks were empty i heard rattle and dumped a filter out of the oil tank. no hose attached.the b/c oil i put in tank seems to be leaking from around the clutch somewhere.this is a pre-UT saw i would say as i see no tag.not sure where to look for serial#. i intend to take saw apart and dig into oiler area and see whats up. does anyone have any ideas on what might be problem with this and does anyone know if tank gasket is same for all 150 autos? sorry about long post ! thanks in advance for any help,i gotta go,theres a free homey somewhere,i can smell it!
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Post by lesorubcheek on Sept 8, 2008 6:56:57 GMT -5
Hello and welcome! 150s are nice saws. A bit unusual construction, but I personally love mine. Yep, all used the same oiler gasket to seal the oil tank assembly to the crankcase. Its a bit difficult to try to describe in detail, so I recommend you get ahold of an illustrated parts list (IPL) before ya dig in. Give an email address and I can send ya one. I'll try to summarize a bit though that may help.
The oil tank is a magnesium assembly in the front of the saw. Its the part that you actually see on the saw on its front right portion and has the upper handle bar mount cast together as a single unit. Its attached to the lower section of the crankcase housing. The oil pump is located inside the tank housing and can be accessed after ya remove the oil tank. Its sorta like the little XL/Super 2 concept in construction where you actually slide the engine, and in case of the 150 the oiler tank while its attached, out from the shell of the body of the saw. To take it apart, its a good idea to first take off the starter pully assembly (3 bolts) and the air filter cover (1 bolt). Remove the front handle bar which is attached at the top and bottom. There's 2 bolts on top and 2 on the bottom that hold the engine assembly to the saw's housing. Also, very important not to forget, there's 2 long bolts that attach the carburetor to the intake manifild that you'll see after the air filter is removed. Make sure you remove these or you can break the manifild if you try to pull the engine out with these attached.
Once the engine is seperated from the body, removal of the oil tnak will be pretty obvious. You'll probably see the short line attached inside that would have the filter bob attached, but you said it had came loose. The pump is just a diaphram that's inside the nose bolted to the crank housing. I think its 2 bolts to remove it. Calvin or Kyle can most likely fix ya up with a new diaphram if needed. And yep, its one gasket fits all for the gasket that seal the tank to the crankcase. Ya may want to ensure the face of the oil tank is flat prior to putting it back together.
Welcome to the addiction!
Dan
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Post by quiverpup on Sept 8, 2008 9:06:33 GMT -5
Thanks for info. it is a strange little saw but really neat. i have already pulled powerhead out twice when trying to get it running. after second time its not bad,kinda easy compared to some stuff.the only tough part is trying to re-align carb bolts and getting plug wire routed away from stop switch.a few choice words and a beer helped. now that i know it runs i will take it apart again for a real cleanup and will get into the oil tank. i still cannot find any serial# on this. its the blue one with white recoil and air filter cover. anyone know where to look? also,what should i run for bar/chain. the one on it is 18 1/2" overall for bar.so i think its 14" setup.bar is non roller and kinda beat.would like to run 16" setup.thanks again!
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Post by quiverpup on Sept 8, 2008 10:36:37 GMT -5
have saw diassembled.looks like tank gasket was leaking.this saw is so easy to take apart! might be my new favorite.i think the oil passage between tank halves was plugged.its not now!should i replace diaphram for oiler while its apart or are they pretty reliable? also,counted drive links on chain and its 16"(59 drivers)so i guess that answers that question.if anyone has the tank gasket and diaphram i need em.please mail me with price and shipping and i can paypal or send money order.thanks again!
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Post by lesorubcheek on Sept 8, 2008 11:05:21 GMT -5
I'd look at the diaphram and if its not torn or distorted, I'd just use it. May be a good idea to pick up a spare one in any case though for later. All of my 150s (I think there's 5 now) have 16" bars on 'em. I've only had one that had a ripped oiler diaphram. Hopefully that plugged passage will be your only problem. These are some neat saws. They've kinda grew on me.
Dan
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Post by quiverpup on Sept 8, 2008 23:09:34 GMT -5
thanks dan, a member pm'd me and has parts.will probably replace diaphram will its apart for peace of mind.as far as tank surface goes i will tape 400 grit to glass and do figure 8's with tank to check flatness. works on old sled heads,should work here.once it back together and oiling,i will get new bar and chain for it and give it a tryout. will repost with a pic if i can.i saw a post with instructions for downloading if i can find again  |
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Post by lesorubcheek on Sept 9, 2008 6:55:32 GMT -5
Yessir, the glass should do the trick. I use my table saw. Really does help ensure its truly flat. Sounds like she's gonna be ready to go very soon!
Dan
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Post by quiverpup on Sept 9, 2008 23:36:42 GMT -5
it will be if i can leave it alone! already eyeing the exhaust port and my dremel,it COULD be smoother and i better make sure the muffler isn't restricted..............
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Post by quiverpup on Sept 18, 2008 19:03:10 GMT -5
no hot saw,gonna leave it be.cleaned up exhaust port just a touch and putting new muffler on without spark arrester.wont modify that unless its not sounding good enough. have a question however.i never checked coil gap when disassembling. i put it at .010 using the brass feeler in my guage kit. is this correct?if not,does anyone know proper gap.also,saw maxflo air filter for sale. are these any good or are they overhyped.thanks in advance
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Post by lesorubcheek on Sept 20, 2008 17:28:32 GMT -5
Sorry for the late reply. The "book" saws use 0.015" for the coil gap. If the bearings are nice and tight, you'll probably be OK with 0.010".
Dan
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