Project Super XL

[demolitionx]

Well I got a Super XL for free from a friend. I am an engineering Student and looking to make a lil wild saw for class and for a comp in a month or so.

So I have a few questions.
I am pretty familiar with porting 2 stroke motor sport motors (IE Jetski / Motocross), do these things respond well to the transfers and exhaust ports being modified?

Has any one had any experience with modifying these saws for high rpm comp type conditions?

Also i have the whole saw apart and I am trying to get the flywheel and clutch off to clean the oiled dust off the inside and to take the jug off how do you go about doing this? The flywheel doesn't have any holes for a bolt puller and it doesn't look it has enough room for the jaw type puller. So what is the proper method for getting them off?

thanks

Rich

[lesorubcheek]

Hi Rich,
Look at the starter pawls. Most of 'em have a threaded section above that's made to attach a puller too. If you don't have a Homelite puller, you can unscrew the pawls and then make a simple puller with a flat piece of metal, drilling holes to line up with the pawl holes, and a nut in the center welded with a hole passing through. Tighten down a couple bolts holding the metal piece flush with the pawl holes and run a bolt down tght against the nose of the crank in the middle. I hope this makes sense, if not I'll try to get a pic for ya.

Dan

[chainsawwhisperer]

Hi Demolition Man, nice to see ya here!
When I make pullers I try to use a flat piece of steel thick enough to drill and tap for the center bolt, instead of welding a nut to the piece. every time I tried to weld a nut on to any thing I tend to melt or distort the threads. Just my take.

As far as porting the cylinder, saws do realy wake up when ported properly. Being that its a reed valve engine,I don't think that you can do much to the intake side other than clean up the ports. If it dosn't have the 4 pedal reed ass. that would be a step in the right direction.
measure your squish, maybe you could benifit from removing the base gaskit, but remember that will change your port timing. you will have to raise your exhaust port, or cut the top of you piston in the amount of the thickness of you base gaskit (That you removed).
widing the exhaust port will get you great gains, as well as cleaning up the transfers.
You can also bump up your igition timing 3-4 degrees, for some upper RPM gains.
Just do things 1 step at a time, and time your cuts before you do anything and after each change to see what works and what does not.
Bigger carb, high flow air cleaners, remove the choke butterfly and shaft, mill the cyl. base, machine off the top of the cyl. and use a machined small combustion chamber head, tuned pipes, the list goes on and on. How wild do you want to go?
Just remember that parts are not made for that saw anymore, and someday they WILL be hard to find. CSW

[demolitionx]

thanks looks like i will have to do some fabbing this weekend.

I don't want to go that crazy but i would like to just mess with the jug to get the ports a little better. mabe if i can find a cheap 60cc dirtbike pipe pick that up.


i will post some of the parts i need to get it to work right, i know for sure i need a clutch drum, bar and chain, and the clutch cover for te chain and bar.

[demolitionx]

well i got the fly wheel off.

got the jug off the piston looks a little rough, but i think it will be alright.

just a question how much play should be on the connecting rod and crank bearing?

Im def gonna need a Bar 16 or 18 and an aggressive chain, the clutch drum, a set of rings, and the cover for the clutch and bar.

if any one has any thing please let me know.

[demolitionx]

well i picked up the cover and clutch drum last night off ebay.

I have never tried any thing with chainsaw motors. Like i said i have done some work on dirtbike motors and 2 cylinder jetski motors. After pulling the jug last night it wasn't what i was expecting, I think i am just gonna play with the exhaust port and run no base gasket. i think that would be the best for reliability. as for the clearances i think that homelite just manufactured new parts expecting people to buy new parts rather than rehabbing their old parts. I would assume putting new rings and a piston would help things and it would not hurt but you never know. my dad has a super ez automatic that he has forever and it still rips through wood easily so im sure they are built to last.

right now i just need the chain and bar, 16 or 18 inch bar and a matching aggressive chain if possible.

this week i will post some pics, i should start work on the exhaust port and i am gonna be brain storming ideas for a chambered pipe for the exhaust if i can keep it on the cheap.

[lesorubcheek]

Here's a couple pics showing a home-made puller next to a Homelite puller. Notice the fastory puller is made to attach to the existing posts, but my home-made version requires post removal. Only thing that may be a bit tricky is most flywheels starter pawl posts are threaded with 12-24 threads. Sometimes its a bit tough to find strong bolts to use to attach the puller, but otherwise its no sweat.





Dan

[demolitionx]

worked on the exhaust port today. probably went overboard but lets hope it works alright.

if it doesn't, nothing gained nothing lost.


I need a BAR thats the last part i need to start putting every thing back together. so if some one could sell me a 16 or an 18 inch bar for this thing that would be great.

[lawnmowertech37]

my 18 " bars are $ 36.95 plus $ 8.95 Shipping and handling i only have two of them they are not oregon bars they are genuine homelite oem i also have 20" 24"

[chainsawwhisperer]

Ok, I pulled a muffler off one of the sxl's. The port is basically rectangle.
Most porting that I have seen and done, the port floor and roof is kept flat, they are just raised or lowered according to where you want your port timing to end up (this is where the people who really know how to port use a degree wheel ). I usually stick to the "back yard method" where the ports are raised or lowered by .5mm-1mm depending on the port.
The ports can also be elongated in an egg shape towards the transfer ports. The reason for the egg shape is because after widening the exhaust port, you have less cylinder wall supporting the piston rings, that shape tends to help the rings make the transition from cylinder wall to port then
back to cylinder wall, without catching the port edge. The bridge in the port does the same thing.
I am curious as to the reason/theory behind the furrows carved into the corners of the port. my PM610 has something similar.




here's the PM610 port. CSW

[chainsawwhisperer]

Maybe that's the difference between Pro Macs and Super Pros. LOL

[demolitionx]

Only reason i did what i did is i copied some porting off some bigger motors. The notches provide better topend and still have good bottom end. Hopefully it works out. And the picture might be deceiving but the cylinder is upside down so the notches are on the top of the exhaust port. I only copied on a smaller scale work i have already seen on bigger motors.

I got my clutch the other day and it was the wrong one. If any one has a Clutch drum for a Sper XL please let me know.

[lawnmowertech37]

just curious who you ordered your clutch from ?

[chainsawwhisperer]

Demolition man, What's the progress report!!!
Were all excited to hear how she runs!
CSW

[chainsawwhisperer]

My cuz used to frame houses, and worked with a kid nick-Named 'Cracky'. One day Cracky was cutting aspenite, using a chainsaw while standing on top of a wall (or something), and sawed almost completely threw his foot. OldZip's post reminded me of this. CSW