|
|
Post by Rossfan1999 on Mar 8, 2015 23:25:34 GMT -5
Hello, I just bought a home lite super EZ off a friend which is old as the hills but has life left in it. It wasn't running well so I rebuilt the carb. It's an HDC carb. I'm not sure sure if I mixed up the idle and main screws. They both looked the same and seen no difference but wanted to be sure. It's definitely an old saw. I put it together and it does run. I have to choke it after it stalls to restart the take the choke off then it starts up. Best with me I'm tryin lol thanks everyone.
|
|
|
|
Post by sawnami on Mar 9, 2015 7:50:59 GMT -5
Not sure if the needles are different.
Make sure that you selected the correct metering plate gasket.
The metering side has a check valve in the body of the carb. Hold a hose against the valve and suck and blow on the hose. It should hold in one direction.
|
|
|
|
Post by Rossfan1999 on Mar 9, 2015 22:56:31 GMT -5
I think I got it figured out. I had a small leak from the intake gasket I replaced...I had it pinched. Seems to be better, now I can adjust it and it starts better. Just some fine tuning. Very nice saw for its age. What is the chain I should be running on this? Its a 16"
|
|
|
|
Post by sawnami on Mar 10, 2015 5:46:54 GMT -5
Mine have 3/8" standard profile.
|
|
|
|
Post by chainsawlady on Mar 10, 2015 10:04:57 GMT -5
I think I got it figured out. I had a small leak from the intake gasket I replaced...I had it pinched. Seems to be better, now I can adjust it and it starts better. Just some fine tuning. Very nice saw for its age. What is the chain I should be running on this? Its a 16" icehube I have the original Oregon chains for the S-EZ Homlite chain saws. #72DP chipper and 72LP chisel chain. chainsawlady |
|
|
|
Post by oldguy on Nov 16, 2015 21:55:29 GMT -5
I am hoping someone can help me ... Im working on a homelite e-z automatic type 10104 ser: 92820017 . I have been trying to locate parts for this saw but I keep hearing that theres no information on that number ? I want to replace carb and give a tune up. Any help will be greatly appreciated!
|
|
|
|
Post by Brian VT on Nov 17, 2015 7:50:08 GMT -5
The carb. is likely a Walbro HDC. Rebuild kits are readily available.
Also plan to replace rubber fuel lines and filter(in the tank).
|
|
|
|
Post by onlyhomelites on Nov 18, 2015 9:28:33 GMT -5
|
|
|
|
Post by Supercharged86 on Nov 18, 2015 10:30:49 GMT -5
Oldguy, Brian and Leon are right on the money here, your E-Z was built on October 9th, 1969. Not that it really matters much, your carb might be a HDC-4 due to the late year production. However, my April 1969 IPL is showing either a HDC-1 or 2. Again, no real difference.
My tune up recommendations:
1) Walbro OEM carb kit ONLY, as shown above
2) Tygon fuel and oil lines
3) Fuel filter
4) NGK BM7F spark plug, the original Champion DJ6J is OK, I think NGK plugs in general perform a little better.
Hey Leon, your IPL link above is not working, I think???
Good luck with your project.
|
|
|
|
Post by sweepleader on Nov 18, 2015 12:48:08 GMT -5
Leon, everyone, the link works if "link[/a" is removed from the end.
|
|
|
|
Post by Supercharged86 on Nov 18, 2015 13:01:32 GMT -5
Leon, everyone, the link works if "link[/a" is removed from the end. Nice catch buddy, I missed that. |
|
|
|
Post by onlyhomelites on Nov 19, 2015 0:40:36 GMT -5
Fixed now, sorry for the screw-up!
|
|
eadg
Groundie
Posts: 6
|
Post by eadg on May 4, 2016 11:29:15 GMT -5
Not sure if the needles are different. Make sure that you selected the correct metering plate gasket. The metering side has a check valve in the body of the carb. Hold a hose against the valve and suck and blow on the hose. It should hold in one direction. A note about the check valve: Be careful. I recently put a gasket kit in one of these Walbro HDC carbs. The kit had a screen and C clip for the check valve so I decided to replaced it. Why not? I removed the clip and screen, sprayed carb cleaner in the hole and blew a tiny cloth diaphragm out of the hole. Crap. The check valve assembly, which was not clear in the exploded parts diagram, is as far as I can tell, a pressed-in insert (mine was black), a bottom screen, a cloth diaphragm, a top screen, and the C clamp. The insert was not going to come out, the diaphragm was larger than the hole in the insert, but had to be put back in to shuttle in the space between the two screens. It took a long time, but using a collection fine wires and a jeweler's screwdriver, and using a tube to blow and suck, I finally got the valve working again. Next time i will just test it and leave it alone. |
|
