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Post by superez360 on Jan 17, 2015 16:19:51 GMT -5
Alright so I just came across my grandfathers 360 automatic and started tinkering with it today
I changed the gas several times it was puke yellow anyways I then put a little gas into the carb and it fired up for a brief moment
learning on a husky I jumped at the roar of this beast of a machine
so know that I know it runs what should I check to see why it's not starting with out gas in the carb?
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Post by superez360 on Jan 17, 2015 16:24:35 GMT -5
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Post by superez360 on Jan 17, 2015 16:42:33 GMT -5
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Post by superez360 on Jan 17, 2015 16:47:34 GMT -5
Pic of carb compartment lastly what year saw is this !? Attachments:
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Post by Brian VT on Jan 17, 2015 17:14:28 GMT -5
Welcome to HOH.
Old rubber dries out and cracks. Then you get air leaks. Then it runs lean and you melt your piston.
You need to get in there to replace the rubber impulse line, carb. boot, fuel line and filter, oil line and filter.
Then you'll need to clean the carb. and replace diaphragms, etc (get a carb.kit).
None if this is very hard to do and those are good saws that are worth bringing back to use.
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Post by Brian VT on Jan 17, 2015 20:07:45 GMT -5
I should note...Before delving into the above steps I remove the muffler and look at the piston and cylinder wall
to check for damage.
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Post by superez360 on Jan 17, 2015 20:44:20 GMT -5
Okay I'll look into the piston and rubber too thanks
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Post by onlyhomelites on Jan 18, 2015 10:31:01 GMT -5
Brian has you covered with his advice. If you've never worked on one of these plan for an hour or so to replace the carburetor boot and hoses. According to the serial number, your saw was built in August or September of 1977. Good luck with the repairs!
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Post by superez360 on Jan 18, 2015 12:15:03 GMT -5
Thanks onlyhomelites I have bad news  I went to check the fuel line and it cracked apart in my fingers but that's all I can find wrong so far so I guess it is good and bad I will take it home tommorow and work on it some more I'll keep updated tho |
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Post by superez360 on Jan 18, 2015 14:30:03 GMT -5
I have a question does anyone have a yutorial for breaking down a 360 auto ? Im not homelite mechanic ie mainly looked over husqvarnas
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Post by Brian VT on Jan 18, 2015 15:55:54 GMT -5
They're much different than your used to since the cylinder is horizontal.
It's pretty weird the 1st time but you'll figure it out and it's much easier next time.
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Post by superez360 on Jan 18, 2015 17:37:22 GMT -5
Okay what are the main bolts required to get the side cover off yes i learned that it was different when i first started tearing down
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Post by onlyhomelites on Jan 19, 2015 23:59:20 GMT -5
Okay what are the main bolts required to get the side cover off yes i learned that it was different when i first started tearing down Check out the illustrated parts list on my webpage: 360 IPLBasically you need to plan on tearing it down to the motor. Get the starter off (4 screws), remove lower handle support (3 screws), remove the front handle (4 screws), remove the carburetor, unscrew the carburetor adapter plate (2 screws), unscrew the 4 A/V mounts (2 visible by air box in rear, 2 up front, down low). At this point you'll be taking the throttle handle & fuel tank off. Slide the carburetor adapter loose from the chamber and lift the throttle handle up to pivot the assembly forward. About half-way up, you'll have to disconnect an oil hose down by the back of the bar pad. The tank should come loose now. At this point the rest of replacing the carburetor boot and the carburetor impulse hose will be self explanatory. While everything is apart, I recommend replacing your fuel and oil hoses as well. Assembly is reverse. Hopefully that will help a bit...like Brian said, it isn't difficult but it is different than a vertical engine. Good Luck! Leon |
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Post by superez360 on Jan 21, 2015 18:33:59 GMT -5
Alright so I replaced the fuel hose, spark plug and she still won't go I took off the carb and the diaphragm looked ok I pulled the carb off and found the seal at the base of the carb is ripped apart could that air leak be enough to cause the issue? What I don't get is it will run when I dump gas down the choke hole but I would like some help please
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Post by superez360 on Jan 21, 2015 18:36:02 GMT -5
Oh yeah it's the not intake that's torn it's the gasket on top of the metal plate just so that's not a confusion
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Post by Brian VT on Jan 21, 2015 19:37:28 GMT -5
I'd suspect the carb. 1st, rubber intake boot 2nd (it's not always easy to see cracks), and then hoses.
It's been a while since I've been into one. Isn't there an impulse hose that comes up through next to the carb.?
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Post by onlyhomelites on Jan 22, 2015 0:02:17 GMT -5
I'd suspect the carb. 1st, rubber intake boot 2nd (it's not always easy to see cracks), and then hoses. It's been a while since I've been into one. Isn't there an impulse hose that comes up through next to the carb.? Once again, Brian is spot on. IMHO, unless you have disassembled the saw and inspected the intake boot, that's your problem. 95% of the 350's & 360's that I've worked on have needed a new boot and ALL of them exhibited the exact symptom that you have described. It's almost never obvious if you are just looking down from the top, but the "ribs" in the boot tend to rip. If you are certain that the boot is in good shape, dump a carburetor kit into it and clean everything really well while you have it apart. The impulse hose comes up from the base of the cylinder and it can crack, especially down at the fitting, but this the least likely of the three scenarios. The carb gasket could cause a bit of a leak, but not likely enough to do what you have described. |
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Post by superez360 on Jan 22, 2015 20:45:04 GMT -5
I'd suspect the carb. 1st, rubber intake boot 2nd (it's not always easy to see cracks), and then hoses. It's been a while since I've been into one. Isn't there an impulse hose that comes up through next to the carb.? Once again, Brian is spot on. IMHO, unless you have disassembled the saw and inspected the intake boot, that's your problem. 95% of the 350's & 360's that I've worked on have needed a new boot and ALL of them exhibited the exact symptom that you have described. It's almost never obvious if you are just looking down from the top, but the "ribs" in the boot tend to rip. If you are certain that the boot is in good shape, dump a carburetor kit into it and clean everything really well while you have it apart. The impulse hose comes up from the base of the cylinder and it can crack, especially down at the fitting, but this the least likely of the three scenarios. The carb gasket could cause a bit of a leak, but not likely enough to do what you have described. Okay tommorow afternoon I will get the saw apart and look into that intake boot is that a part i can pick up from a reputable small engine dealer or is it harder than that? |
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Post by Brian VT on Jan 22, 2015 21:26:41 GMT -5
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Post by superez360 on Jan 22, 2015 21:44:55 GMT -5
My love for the saw took over and I opened her up and like all you wise men told me the intake is gone sadly:( but as long as I can get a new one I'm happy Attachments:
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I went to check the fuel line and it cracked apart in my fingers but that's all I can find wrong so far so I guess it is good and bad I will take it home tommorow and work on it some more I'll keep updated tho
