540/8800 case splittin' and joinin'

[lesorubcheek]

Anybody ever take down a 540 or 8800? I used a press with a few improvised parts to split the case on my 8800, and I'm about ready to put it back together. I saw a nice thread over on AS splitting and reassembling the case on a stihl, and the tools look like they'd make things easier. I'm debating whether to just use the press again, or try to make some tools similar to the stihl tools. Anybody have any advice I'd appreciate hearing it.

Also, I'm sure there's lots of opinions about case sealant. Sounds like Threebond 1104 (or now actually is 1194 due to lead content) comes highly recommended. Only thing is I hear it cures pretty fast (like in a few minutes). I'd rather have a bit more time to fiddle around if needed. Any experience with slower curing sealants?

Thanks for any input,
Dan

p.s.
stihl is in brown because that's the color of the thing I first think of when I hear the word. Apologies to any stihl fans out there.

[lesorubcheek]

Lookin' like this threads headed for the dumpster! Oh well. I've decided that I'll most probably go ahead and attempt to make up some tools or at least one for joining the case. Whenever I can get to it, maybe this would be a nice how-to project to try to capture. At the rate I'm going though, it'll be 6 months before I ever get working on it.

Dan

[chainsawwhisperer]

Let me know if you need a new P/C for the 8800. I don't think my MP88/8800 project will ever get off the ground. CSW

[lesorubcheek]

Thanks a bunch! I appreciate the offer. I have a couple of spare sets, so I should be good to go. Don't say you'll never get your project off the ground. These are a killer saw and I'd bet you'd regret not following her through. I've been over a year now since I even started on this one... just never seem to find the time, but it sure is fun when a little free time does pop up.

Dan

[chainsawwhisperer]

I'm having trouble finding a wrecked 8800 to fix up with the parts fron the MP88. Maybe someday.

[RBW]

Sorry I cant help out Dan. I have copies of the tool page for the X50 series saws, but even these wouldnt give you dimensions of the needed tools, just a pic of what they should look like when you get them made.

[lesorubcheek]

Thanks anyways RBW... I'm actually getting kinda hyped about trying to make up some tools. It would be nice to try to make something that would be universal, but not sure this will be possible. Its a fun challenge in any case.

Dan

[lesorubcheek]

Finally started playing around with some metal trying to make a presser/puller similar in concept to tool made by Sth.. Sth.... Sth... (I just can't seem to say it ), ah you know, that orange and white German saw manufacturer. Just eye-balling the crankcases on the 8800 as well as a couple others, I had originally thought the crank was centered directly inline with the bar studs. I've discovered this isn't quite true. The cenerline of the crank is actually offset upwards about 1/4" or so from the cenerline between the bar studs. This sorta makes sense in that there will be a slightly sharper angle on the chain from the bottom as it leaves the bar and is pulled toward the sprocket. This will help remove slack where the force is being applied pulling the chain. Just an interesting little finding.

Now for the big decision... Do I couple the drive bolt on the presser/puller directly to the crank, or do I try to rig up some type of bearing system??? If its coupled directly, it means the crank will turn as it presses/pulls the crank out/in. Not sure if this will be good on the crank bearings? I have a few ideas for making a bearing system, but not sure its really required. Any suggestions or opinions?

Dan

[lesorubcheek]

Ruh ro Raggy.....
Hit my first BIG problem. Best I can tell, the threads on the 8800 for the clutch are 12mm with a 1.5mm pitch. I thought I'd find a left hand threaded nut easy enough at McMaster Carr, buuuuuuutttttt. Nope. They had with a 1.75mm pitch, but not 1.5. Just my luck. Now I'm stuck without a lead on finding a nut to thread onto the crank to use a stupid puller! Any ideas of other stores that may have a left hand 12mm with 1.5mm pitch?

Dan

[chainsawwhisperer]

Call a nut and bolt supply outfit, or try to have one made at a machine shop.
You could carefully use your clutch hub that threaded onto the crank.
If your hesitant to use your hub, I will graciously offer up mine
from my MP88.
I don't think the puller will have that much tension on it, while separating the cases. Let me know. CSW

Could you redesign your puller to push instead of pull on the crank, or vice versa?

[lesorubcheek]

What I've been planning to do is have two setups: one for pushing and a second for pulling. The pushing part is easy, since it won't require a threaded attachment. Basically I was gonna use a 1/2" bolt with the end rounded down with a bushing and sitting inside a coupler. Then on the end of coupler I'd have a short segment ground to a point to engage the center of the crank. For pulling though, its a bit trickier. Using the old clutch is a great idea, but the way I'm making this thing, it will be too big to fit inside the puller's housing. I've looked at McMaster Carr before and they had all sizes of left hand threaded nuts, so I thought it would be easy enough to find what I needed. After finally measuring the threads, it looks like this may not be the case afterall.

Dan

[lesorubcheek]

Well... No luck yet locating a nut, but I did find www.e-taps.com that at least sells a left hand thread tap the right size (for $35). McMaster Carr also has a tap, but its over $50... ouch! Maybe, just maybe with all the European saws like Huskys and St.. Sth... Sthi... awww you know that orange and white German saw, one of these may have 12mm x 1.5 mm pitch left hand threads and a busted or cheap clutch spider will turn up.

Dan

[farley9n]

How about putting the crank and bearings in the freezer and warming the case? I have done that to good advantage.
As a side to this; I am looking for an 8800 muffler or at least the part of one that goes against the cylinder, also the intake manifold and carb adapter. These are the parts that are different from the 540 that will allow you to use the 8800 cylinder and piston assembly on a 540. I have plenty to trade or........?...........Bob

[knucklepanshovel]

have you talked to any machine shops about making a tap?

next I figure machine shops will be high. so.. maybe ask around some independent Harley repair shops. the ones that cater to older bikes & bikers like club members. alot of these shops have lathes & owners can make you a tap you may have to heat treat it yourself.

actually any decent independent Harley shop should have a lathe to make custom parts for Harleys. it is just a matter of seeing if they will help & would usually be cheaper than a real machine shop.

I looked at a lathe myself at a yard sale last weekend but no gears for thread cutting & only about a 10 inch capacity. I thought hard but didnt buy.

shop I used to work at had one but owner sold it & paid other customers that had lathes to make parts. he wasnt good with it & decided it took up too much space in his shop. it had about a 4 foot bed.

also keep up with your idea of tools to split like was on the AS, I saw & liked that idea too.

Later,
Randy

[lesorubcheek]

Bob, thanks for the suggestion, and that may be what I end up doing. Whole deal though is I had hopes on making this puller/presser tool. Just stinks that a 12mm x 1.5mm pitch left hand thread is so hard to find.

Randy, haven't looked at any local shops. I have a feeling though that to machine a nut will end up costing about as much as just buying a $35 tap. at least if I get a tap, I can make duplicates if I ever need to. Thanks anyways for the suggestion.

Dan