XL1 oiler troubles

[sutluc]

Hi everyone, I'm new here.

I bought an XL1 Automatic at a garage sale. It runs well, but the oiler doesn't work.
I drained the oil tank and the little filter fell out, attached to a little piece of rotten old hose.

Looking at the thing it appeared to me that I could get into the tank from the drive side, so I pulled all that apart, inspecting the oil pump as I went. (Looked pretty good, not much gear wear.)

I removed the front handle and the screws that attach that side of the saw. (the ones around the oil pump, and the torx head one between the bar studs)
This left that side loose, it would rotate around the crank a little bit, but not pull off.
Then I pulled the crank seal, and finding a snap ring under it I removed that. Didn't make a bit of difference, still on there as solid as ever.

What am I missing? Is it possible to remove the drive side like that, or am I completely off in left field?

Thanks.

[lawnmowertech37]

i would stop where you are at and contact me on phone so i can give you some tutorial to how to go about this if i talk on phone i can understand the question alot better than trying to read it if you are here in the usa please click my signature link on this post the one that appears in blue color is the one you click and call that 800 # on the homepage top corner left side

9-5 est

[sutluc]

Thanks for the offer, but I'm not in the US. I have stopped where I am, no interest in breaking anything!
I wish I could find some decent blown apart drawings of the saw. The only ones I've been able to find online are too fuzzy to make much of.

If my explanation isn't clear I can probably improve on it.
I'm currently trying to remove the drive side of the crankcase, which I'm assuming will eventually let me into the oil tank.

[sutluc]

I found some more pictures, little bit better than the other ones I had found.
Where I'm at is trying to remove item 25 from page 9:
odref.com/homelite/chainsaw/ut-10440.pdf

I'm still not clear if this will allow me to access the oil tank interior or not. It looks like with that out of the way I should be able to take screws out of the oil tank and separate it from the fuel tank and crankcase.

(I know the drawing is not an XL1, it's the closest I found.)

[lesorubcheek]

That looks like you're trying to remove the drive case cover. Can't do it from the drive side. If you look at the internals a bit, you'll see the crank's drive side bearing is held from the inside with two bolts and keepers. You basically have to start dissassembly from the starter side and work inward. If you're just trying to remove the tank assembly, I'm pretty sure these will come off after removing a few key bolts, again working from the starter side. Its been a while since I've played with any of my EZs, so forgive me I'm a bit rusty.

Dan

[lawnmowertech37]

thats good to know need to start from the starter side to get to the oil tank there should be a gasket in that tank make sure if you can not to tear it but if it does get teared i may have a replacement gasket here if i knew what time you were going to be online i can set up a chat time thru my website which costs you nothing totally free and yes you would be talking directly to me thru my store i am usually on there during certain hrs of the day monday thru saturday and sunday evenings eastern time zone in the usa

but i can talk on there if need be the way to do that is to click the icon where it says live help online and give yourself a nickname and initiate a chat request only if i am online will it work otherwise it will ask you to leave a msg

but that is also good for everyone else to do it actually is a good feature helps save on toll free # charges

plus i like to type as you can tell


calvin

[woodplayer]

sutluc

Basically you want to remove items 1,2 on page 9. Item 2 should unthread from the oil tank housing. This part connects to the inside tank oil line.

If you are unable to get at it, you may have to remove the complete rear handle/ carburetor assembly (item 32 on pg. 14). I believe there are 2 screws near the carburetor and one other. These screws are all labelled item 23 on pg. 14. Also the starter cover will need to be removed.

I can't recall if the carburetor needs to come off, or just the fuel line to remove the handle/ carburetor assembly. Its all quite simple just take your time and remember how things came apart.

[sugarcreeksaws]

Hi sutluc,
Before you tear into the tank, why don't you replace all your old lines, make sure there is no buildup or plugs in the pump and try it again. Many times, an air leak in the lines won't allow you to get the suction you need for the oil to be pulled up into the line.
Joe

[sutluc]

Thanks for all the advice everyone, exactly what I needed!
The tank comes off pretty easy from the recoil side, I just managed to side-track myself into a dead end at first.
I could see the drive side bearing keepers in the picture, but I reasoned (entirely wrongly) that that bearing was a slip fit on the crank, rather than a press fit. (Otherwise why the snap-ring? Guess it's just a safety feature.)

I plan on replacing all the lines, both oil and gasoline. The gas line looks rough also, and there was another gas filter (original one I expect) jammed in the bottom of the tank, as I discovered when I split the tanks.

One last question: I damaged the driveside crank seal removing it in my foolish quest after the snap ring. Does anyone know off-hand what the seal number is?
If not, don't spend too much time searching please, I can just put a vernier on it and either reference the number myself or get my bearing supply place to.

Thanks again guys.

[lawnmowertech37]

Jul 2, 2008 21:55:10 GMT -5 sutluc said:

Thanks for all the advice everyone, exactly what I needed!
The tank comes off pretty easy from the recoil side, I just managed to side-track myself into a dead end at first.
I could see the drive side bearing keepers in the picture, but I reasoned (entirely wrongly) that that bearing was a slip fit on the crank, rather than a press fit. (Otherwise why the snap-ring? Guess it's just a safety feature.)

I plan on replacing all the lines, both oil and gasoline. The gas line looks rough also, and there was another gas filter (original one I expect) jammed in the bottom of the tank, as I discovered when I split the tanks.

One last question: I damaged the driveside crank seal removing it in my foolish quest after the snap ring. Does anyone know off-hand what the seal number is?
If not, don't spend too much time searching please, I can just put a vernier on it and either reference the number myself or get my bearing supply place to.

Thanks again guys.

sutloc

i should have some info for you tommorrow or wednesday usa time that xl 1 is a oldie so thats why that website did not have the info you need if you can get me your email address but pm me it i can see about sending you the ipl for that unit that way you will have the part #s you need etc. and maybe some other info on that unit


i can send the manuel if its available thru pdf format

thanks
calvin