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Post by husqy445 on Mar 31, 2013 13:30:10 GMT -5
Hey guys, restoring my C-51. I've pretty much gotten taken all the way apart and am ready to start rebuilding. I, of course, need to paint it. Any recommendations on what to do? I want a good automotive type paint that will withstand gas, oil, and heat. Thanks
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930
Collector wannabe
Posts: 17
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Post by 930 on May 13, 2014 18:45:59 GMT -5
Hello, I'm starting process also so I'm doing some research on powder coating vs automotive paint with a hardener. I'll post what I come up with.
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Post by lesorubcheek on May 13, 2014 21:33:01 GMT -5
Powder coating would be a great option, but on the older saws, I almost always end up needing to add filler. I don't think the powder would stick well, and even if it did, don't think the baking temps would do the filler any good. I guess some metal filings could be added to the filler to help the powder to stick. Still would need to find a filler that could take the baking temps.
Dan
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930
Collector wannabe
Posts: 17
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Post by 930 on May 14, 2014 14:02:58 GMT -5
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Post by joegeds on Dec 11, 2014 7:08:39 GMT -5
What do you do for metal that is highly porous? I am rebuilding an late '50s Clinton D4-1. The body is either cast aluminum or cast magnesium, or some alloy in between. All I know is that it is lightweight and cast. Anyway, after taking the saw completely apart, I washed all the parts in soap/degreaser/water. After rinsing, in order to dry the pieces out completely, I just put them in a 350 F oven for about 10 minutes. When I took the pieces out, you could see oil/gas pooling on some of the pieces. Like the heat extracted the oil right from the pores of the metal. How else would that get there? Anyway, now I'm worried that even after I de-grease it for paint prep, there will still be oily deposits in the metal. Is that anything I need to worry about?
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AlvinFlynt
Collector
Get it done.. and.. F A S T !
Posts: 55
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Post by AlvinFlynt on Jan 4, 2015 19:41:17 GMT -5
C51 Paint. Close match is Duplicolor Engine Paint - Pontiac Blue. NO paint is fuel proof. Need to topcoat with clear polyurethane which will help.
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AlvinFlynt
Collector
Get it done.. and.. F A S T !
Posts: 55
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Post by AlvinFlynt on Jan 4, 2015 19:54:23 GMT -5
Chainsaw body metals are mostly magnesium. Cheap n strong back in the day. Sometimes metals like this get pitted from reactions to substances that come in contact such as fertilizer. Two fixes one is cheap and easy. Expensive fix is to get someone to weld in the pits which may get tricky. Cheaper.. good ol JB Weld and sand it smooth. Almost as strong and paints well. If it's structural maybe not. Depends on the repair. Good luck
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Post by hotrodsuperxl on Feb 23, 2015 19:37:37 GMT -5
Another quick tip for you guys, use zinc Chromate primer available at most boat parts suppliers.... most are filler type primers made to be used with cast aluminum or magnesium.
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