Bore cutting tips

[tommyhnavix]

Here are some links to info about bore cutting. A lot of good info.
BUT!!!
In my personal opinion bore cutting is one of the more dangerous things one can attempt with a chainsaw, let alone the extra wear and tear on the chain, bar tip, clutch, clutch drum and clutch drum bearing. It is probably a usefull tool and trick for a professionally trained logger or arborist.
I don't consider myself a professional logger or arborist but I have cut down hundreds of trees in my life so far in many different situations and have gotten by just fine using wedges to get them to fall correctly when needed and never had to bore cut one.
I have done a few bore cuts under the supevision of a professional and felt the great potential for a dangerous outcome and decided using wedges was fine for me.
It's kind of like choosing not to walk a path with a couple rattle snakes along the way. You might not get bitten, but if you don't go that way you can still get to where you are going

I work on saw for pros and the ones who do bore cutting need a lot more work on their saws. New bars tips or bars, clutchs, clutch drums, clutch bearings,streched chains.
If you want to be a pro logger or arborist I suggest working for one or with one for a while and be properly trained by someone with the proper experience and be safer than sorry. Like I said you can cut down lots of trees with out ever using a bore cut.
Just my honest opinion.
Tom

www.forestapps.com/tips/backcut/backcut.htm

www.treeresource.com/blog/blog?blogEntryId=19

www.arborage.com/ME2/Audiences/dirmod.asp?sid=&nm=News+and+Features&type=Publishing&mod=Publications%3A%3AArticle&mid=8F3A7027421841978F18BE895F87F791&AudID=AC361F5928F54864BFCBBD93E5B8624D&tier=4&id=B558FD85A06B42DBBA6EDC39A42A2076

www.madsens1.com/chaps.htm

www.madsens1.com/saw_gen_safety.htm

www.madsens1.com/bnc_kickback.htm

www.madsens1.com/saw_facts.htm

www.madsens1.com/muu_barchain.htm

www.bchmt.org/esbch/Chain%20Saw%20Tech.pdf

web.extension.illinois.edu/forestry/publications/pdf/timber_harvesting/UIUC_Tims_Tips_Chainsaw_Safety/backcut.pdf


www.youtube.com/watch?v=UZLBtFdmKKU

www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZoameGbMVt8


Web Sites info came from for further reading.

www.forestapps.com/

www.bchmt.org/

www.treeresource.com/

web.extension.illinois.edu/forestry/publications/

www.arborage.com/ME2/Audiences/default.asp

www.madsens1.com/default.htm

[Brian VT]

Nov 19, 2012 12:13:13 GMT -5 tommyhnavix said:

...I have cut down hundreds of trees in my life so far in many different situations and have gotten by just fine using wedges to get them to fall correctly when needed and never had to bore cut one.
...I have done a few bore cuts under the supevision af a professional and felt the great potential for a dangerous outcome and decided wedges were fine for me.

What does bore cutting have to do with needing wedges or not
Often a bore cut is made so that you have somewhere to PUT wedges (G.O.L. teaches this method of felling).

[tommyhnavix]

The guy that showed me how and why to bore cut said that a bore cut was a good technique to use when there was a little uncertainty of the direction the tree might fall. He cut out a wedge in front then bore cut behind the wedge cut leaving a hindge and a couple inches behind the bore cut. To fell the tree all you have to do is make sure you have a clear path and cut that small ribbon left holding the tree and get out of the way. A very quick cut. Plenty of time to get clear.
I like cutting the wedge in front and cutting from the back side toward the hindge and driving in a couple of wedges, one to keep the bar from getting pinched and two, to nudge the tree the direction I want it to go. No bore cut needed. Sometimes guys use a bore cut when their bar is not long enough to go completly though the tree. I just make sure I take a saw with a bar long enough or let a pro handle it if there is any question of safety. I have use my climbers, went up the tree and clipped most of the limbs off on the oppisite side of the direction I wanted it to fall to asure the tree would fall where I wanted it to. Also it never hurts to take the Kenny Rodgers approach Know when to hold them and when to fold them If the tree looks like it may not fall where you want it to let a pro do it. I have turned down a lot of trees also.
Tom

P.S.
G.O.L. looks like a great training resource if it's avalable in one's area

www.gameoflogging.com/

[Brian VT]

He showed you the method that GOL, and I think OSHA, recommend.
It's no different than your method except they're cutting back from the hinge, rather than toward it.
The tree is still gonna do what it's gonna do when you release it. It can still sit back on your bar, or worse, if that's the way it's going. You should still use wedges unless it's leaning in the direction that you faced it AND there is zero chance that wind could push it. It's always best to throw a couple wedges in any time you can.

[tommyhnavix]

I agree
Wedges are a good safety tool to use whenever you can

Watching someone bore cut that knows how to do it and is experienced at it is awesome, but a potentially dangerous thing to try to do on one's own without some good instruction from someone comfortable doing it. I have done it, but not in my comfort zone, so I try to work around it my self
Tom

[chuckbunyan]

The only time I use a bore-cut is if there is a chance the tree will "barber-chair" while making the back-cut. If I decide to use it, I take the extra precaution of wrapping the trunk with a heavy chain and binder.

As Tom said, take a saw with a bar long enough to fell the tree without using a bore-cut and if you have to use the bore-cut make sure your bar is long enough to pass all the way through the trunk, with a few inches to spare, and your chain is SHARP.

Babe's cousin ChuckBunyan