Post by lesorubcheek on Jan 30, 2011 20:35:55 GMT -5
Started doing a 340 rebuild and wanted to share. Decied to post over at Calvin's new site at the same time. Anyhoo, I've heard some good things about the 340, aka Solo 654 and landed one a little while back. Started tearing into it and honestly not very impressed with the build quality. Maybe it'll run better that it looks, but its really a big hunk of plastic which ain't my thing. Anyway, I started it, so here's a few pics if anyone is interested in these saws.
First is the crank assembly and piston. Here's the parts. Bearings all felt good, so just gave 'em a cleanup.
Piston for a 340 has a single ring. There's an arrow that points to the exhaust side so the alignment pin for the ring is in the right location. The 'ole heat gun is always handy to warm up a piston to get the pin inserted. Clips in place so first step is done.
There's metal alignment rings that go outside the bearings and then the seals. I went ahead and lubed all the bearings with some 2-stroke oil at this point.
Now its getting time for the fun stuff. Had real good luck with the Threebond for sealing cases. Ring will go on in an obvious direction to seat with the alignment pin. Oiled up the cylinder bore and the piston/ring and this point and wiped all surfaces that's fixin' to get the Threebond with alcohol.
Now, using a brush, the Threebond is applied to the bottom of the clam shell and around both ends where the seals will sit. Before anybody says it, yea I know there's still some carbon on the top of the cylinder. I cleaned a bit with a dremel brush and finally said to heck with it, it ain't enough to come loose in a clump and scratch anything up. Maybe it'll bump up the compression a bit. ;D
Buttoned up and torqued down the 4 bolts that hold the clam shell together.
Now for the transfer covers. Really cheesy looking to me, but I guess it does the job. There's 4 bolts on each side and a special rubber seal.
Now the engine is ready to install. Thought about doing a pressure test, but honestly, I ain't crazy about this saw's construction and really don't feel like taking the time to make the block-off plates.
There's two bolts on the inside that attach the engine to the plastic main body...
... and five on the outside.
Next comes the manifold install. Its supposed to use allen-head bolts here, but they were subbed with hex head at some point. Really made it tough to tighten up properly. Don't know why the intake is choked down so small. Thought about leaving this insert out, but the manifold is so small, it'd need drilling out to do any good. Just putting it back the way it was.
But, any case, its on.
The 290 and 340 use a funky two piece ignition system. According to the book there were two types: SEMS and Prufex. This one's got the Prufex stuff on it.
Next comes the flywheel. Used the 'ole starter rope in the plug hole trick to hold the crank while it was torqued.
This air guide goes next and the wires to the ignition need to route through at the top.
Starter goes next. It was in good shape, so ain't going through taking it apart. Really don't like the design of it though with a cheap plastic dog. Reminds me of a friend 032 I worked on a while back.
Had previously rebuilt the carb... nothing special here, so I'll omit the details. There's a white bell-crank that actuates the carb throttle via a link. The bell-crank is slid into the left side first then back to the right. The link goes into place and then attach the carb to the link. Then hold the carb gasket in place and bolt down the carb.
Well, battery's shot for the day on the camera, so that's all for now.
Dan
First is the crank assembly and piston. Here's the parts. Bearings all felt good, so just gave 'em a cleanup.
Piston for a 340 has a single ring. There's an arrow that points to the exhaust side so the alignment pin for the ring is in the right location. The 'ole heat gun is always handy to warm up a piston to get the pin inserted. Clips in place so first step is done.
There's metal alignment rings that go outside the bearings and then the seals. I went ahead and lubed all the bearings with some 2-stroke oil at this point.
Now its getting time for the fun stuff. Had real good luck with the Threebond for sealing cases. Ring will go on in an obvious direction to seat with the alignment pin. Oiled up the cylinder bore and the piston/ring and this point and wiped all surfaces that's fixin' to get the Threebond with alcohol.
Now, using a brush, the Threebond is applied to the bottom of the clam shell and around both ends where the seals will sit. Before anybody says it, yea I know there's still some carbon on the top of the cylinder. I cleaned a bit with a dremel brush and finally said to heck with it, it ain't enough to come loose in a clump and scratch anything up. Maybe it'll bump up the compression a bit. ;D
Buttoned up and torqued down the 4 bolts that hold the clam shell together.
Now for the transfer covers. Really cheesy looking to me, but I guess it does the job. There's 4 bolts on each side and a special rubber seal.
Now the engine is ready to install. Thought about doing a pressure test, but honestly, I ain't crazy about this saw's construction and really don't feel like taking the time to make the block-off plates.
There's two bolts on the inside that attach the engine to the plastic main body...
... and five on the outside.
Next comes the manifold install. Its supposed to use allen-head bolts here, but they were subbed with hex head at some point. Really made it tough to tighten up properly. Don't know why the intake is choked down so small. Thought about leaving this insert out, but the manifold is so small, it'd need drilling out to do any good. Just putting it back the way it was.
But, any case, its on.
The 290 and 340 use a funky two piece ignition system. According to the book there were two types: SEMS and Prufex. This one's got the Prufex stuff on it.
Next comes the flywheel. Used the 'ole starter rope in the plug hole trick to hold the crank while it was torqued.
This air guide goes next and the wires to the ignition need to route through at the top.
Starter goes next. It was in good shape, so ain't going through taking it apart. Really don't like the design of it though with a cheap plastic dog. Reminds me of a friend 032 I worked on a while back.
Had previously rebuilt the carb... nothing special here, so I'll omit the details. There's a white bell-crank that actuates the carb throttle via a link. The bell-crank is slid into the left side first then back to the right. The link goes into place and then attach the carb to the link. Then hold the carb gasket in place and bolt down the carb.
Well, battery's shot for the day on the camera, so that's all for now.
Dan
