Post by eadg on May 7, 2010 21:06:41 GMT -5
I wanted to get my dad's 1970's Super EZ Auto running for my son to use. It wouldn't fire. New plug, no spark. Also chain oil leaked freely from somewhere under the chain cover.
I did searches and found help with the electrical circuit and clutch removal as well as a parts list in this forum.
The following steps seem pretty easy after you do it once but there are a couple tricky things that are not so obvious to the first-timer for whom this is intended.
1. I removed the two-bolt rewind cover - wrong. It unwound itself.
2. I removed the four bolt housing and replaced the rewind cover on it and wound it back up.
3. The coil was a blue all-in-one module, no points. The switch lead was a little loose but it is a kill circuit (diagram is available in this forum) and the sawwould could have run fine with the lead totally off so that is not the problem. Plug, plug wire, terminal, and other connections are OK.
There is nothing else to be bad, so I need a new $75 module/coil, the most expensive part on the saw, it seems. There were at least three different magneto variations for the SEZ, so buying a parts saw on eBay for electrical parts was too risky. Thought about using an old-style coil $20 with a electronic points replacement module $16 but I just bought the exact replacement from Randy's.
4. I had removed the air filter cover and things looked pretty good. Fuel line had some cracking. I ordered a gas line too.
5. I removed the chain and drive case. Not much wear on the sprocket.
6. I cleaned the saw with compressed air and a brush. I shook it around to dump the the crap out of it.
7. New problem. The crankshaft wouldn't turn free. It was at bottom dead center and would turn about 1/8 turn either way. Metallic clunk. It just worked 15 minutes ago. Had visions of broken rings or loose connecting rod parts. Finally took the muffler cap off and found the problem. One of the three screws that held the muffler body to the cylinder had been loose and when I shook the saw around, the screw fell into the exhaust port where it lodged. Put the screw back where it belonged and put the cap back on. Fine.
8. Now about the oil leak. Stuffed 18" of 3/8" rope in the cylinder to lock up the engine so I could remove the clutch. Removed the clutch cover plate. Then stuck the tips of a 7/8" open end wrench in the spider, tightened a large adjustable wrench on the sides of the 7/8" and twisted as the arrow indicated clockwise to loosen. Screwed off nice and easy. Removed everything on that end of the crankshaft.
9. Found the chain oil pump body had been repaired with epoxy or such but that was holding fine after 40 years. The problem was a retaining screw had loosened and let the pump cam slip out. Reassembled it.
10. The oiler has two circuits, the manual which seems to have all metal piping and the automatic oiler that has plastic flex line. The flex line was going soft.
11. I reassembled the pump and clutch body on the crankshaft. Removed the rope.
12. Parts came in. I replaced the fuel line, using a hooked wire to fish the filter out of the tank. I removed the old line, cleaned the filter, cut a new line the same length and replaced it all. The fit was a little loose into the tank case because the OD was a little small. It probably would have been OK but I got a blister pack of fuel line from TSC and its larger OD made a better fit.
13. When I fished the oiler line out, it seemed short - like it had been cut off once. The filter hung about half way to the bottom of the oil chamber. Cut a longer line. The the TSC line OD was too large and it wouldn't fit through the case hole which was tricky anyway. You have to cut a tapered point on the line and punch it and attache a fish wire to feed it through the case from the inside and grab it with a needle nose. The line from Randy's fit better. Cleaned the filter and hooked it up. When I cranked the saw with the flywheel the auto oiler pump worked.
14. I replaced the module keeping some clearance .015 to the flywheel. Crimped the kill switch lead a bit. Routed the plug wire through a new grommet through the case and boot and attached the spring terminal pulling the boot over the terminal.
15. I reassembled everything and checked the spark. Good. I replaced the plug and added fuel and oil. It started on about the 10th pull, and ran strong.
16. The plug wire popped off the plug a couple times because the plug wire was too long. Rather than cut it off I just stuffed about 1/2" back into the case.
Added note 12/2011:
I bought another EZAO for myself, an earlier red with white trim UT-1014 machine. It has several different parts.
This earlier machine does not have the plastic oil line circuit. The old pump is marked 65086 whereas the later red machine had a 65068A pump. The later "A" pump has an extra inlet nipple for the AO plastic line and it has no access screw to a ball check valve that the older one had. I suspect the "A" pump may have been an improvement to reduce oil leakage after use, it is certainly not simpler.
The older machine also has a completely different sprocket/clutch. It has a heavy metal drive ring between the sprocket teeth and the chain. The chain does not contact the sprocket teeth directly, has side play for alignment and this seems like a more durable design.
This was a low-hours machine that would start and run under no load but would not cut; it got fuel starved and quit. The problem was a corrosion buildup in the metal part of the fuel filter.
Added note 5/2016:
This EZAO saw ran well for a several years, then it quit. I installed a carb kit. Still a hard start (took a lot of pulls and priming). Ran about a half hour and quit. No spark. Check the electrical. No obvious shorts or such. Removing the flywheel to check the points involved removing the coil to get space for a little pry bar under the wheel, removing the retaining lock nut with a power ratchet and replacing it with a matching thread regular nut to absorb the blow. Apply the pry bar and lift the saw with it while striking the nut/crank with a small hammer. Sounds ugly but it worked after after 10 strikes or so it came off. No damage. Set and checked the points. Condenser and wires not shorted. Cleaned and reassembled everything. No spark. Ordered a new old stock coil, ebay. Found that saws with serial numbers below 91952092 use a A-65204 Phelon coil.
I did searches and found help with the electrical circuit and clutch removal as well as a parts list in this forum.
The following steps seem pretty easy after you do it once but there are a couple tricky things that are not so obvious to the first-timer for whom this is intended.
1. I removed the two-bolt rewind cover - wrong. It unwound itself.
2. I removed the four bolt housing and replaced the rewind cover on it and wound it back up.
3. The coil was a blue all-in-one module, no points. The switch lead was a little loose but it is a kill circuit (diagram is available in this forum) and the saw
There is nothing else to be bad, so I need a new $75 module/coil, the most expensive part on the saw, it seems. There were at least three different magneto variations for the SEZ, so buying a parts saw on eBay for electrical parts was too risky. Thought about using an old-style coil $20 with a electronic points replacement module $16 but I just bought the exact replacement from Randy's.
4. I had removed the air filter cover and things looked pretty good. Fuel line had some cracking. I ordered a gas line too.
5. I removed the chain and drive case. Not much wear on the sprocket.
6. I cleaned the saw with compressed air and a brush. I shook it around to dump the the crap out of it.
7. New problem. The crankshaft wouldn't turn free. It was at bottom dead center and would turn about 1/8 turn either way. Metallic clunk. It just worked 15 minutes ago. Had visions of broken rings or loose connecting rod parts. Finally took the muffler cap off and found the problem. One of the three screws that held the muffler body to the cylinder had been loose and when I shook the saw around, the screw fell into the exhaust port where it lodged. Put the screw back where it belonged and put the cap back on. Fine.
8. Now about the oil leak. Stuffed 18" of 3/8" rope in the cylinder to lock up the engine so I could remove the clutch. Removed the clutch cover plate. Then stuck the tips of a 7/8" open end wrench in the spider, tightened a large adjustable wrench on the sides of the 7/8" and twisted as the arrow indicated clockwise to loosen. Screwed off nice and easy. Removed everything on that end of the crankshaft.
9. Found the chain oil pump body had been repaired with epoxy or such but that was holding fine after 40 years. The problem was a retaining screw had loosened and let the pump cam slip out. Reassembled it.
10. The oiler has two circuits, the manual which seems to have all metal piping and the automatic oiler that has plastic flex line. The flex line was going soft.
11. I reassembled the pump and clutch body on the crankshaft. Removed the rope.
12. Parts came in. I replaced the fuel line, using a hooked wire to fish the filter out of the tank. I removed the old line, cleaned the filter, cut a new line the same length and replaced it all. The fit was a little loose into the tank case because the OD was a little small. It probably would have been OK but I got a blister pack of fuel line from TSC and its larger OD made a better fit.
13. When I fished the oiler line out, it seemed short - like it had been cut off once. The filter hung about half way to the bottom of the oil chamber. Cut a longer line. The the TSC line OD was too large and it wouldn't fit through the case hole which was tricky anyway. You have to cut a tapered point on the line and punch it and attache a fish wire to feed it through the case from the inside and grab it with a needle nose. The line from Randy's fit better. Cleaned the filter and hooked it up. When I cranked the saw with the flywheel the auto oiler pump worked.
14. I replaced the module keeping some clearance .015 to the flywheel. Crimped the kill switch lead a bit. Routed the plug wire through a new grommet through the case and boot and attached the spring terminal pulling the boot over the terminal.
15. I reassembled everything and checked the spark. Good. I replaced the plug and added fuel and oil. It started on about the 10th pull, and ran strong.
16. The plug wire popped off the plug a couple times because the plug wire was too long. Rather than cut it off I just stuffed about 1/2" back into the case.
Added note 12/2011:
I bought another EZAO for myself, an earlier red with white trim UT-1014 machine. It has several different parts.
This earlier machine does not have the plastic oil line circuit. The old pump is marked 65086 whereas the later red machine had a 65068A pump. The later "A" pump has an extra inlet nipple for the AO plastic line and it has no access screw to a ball check valve that the older one had. I suspect the "A" pump may have been an improvement to reduce oil leakage after use, it is certainly not simpler.
The older machine also has a completely different sprocket/clutch. It has a heavy metal drive ring between the sprocket teeth and the chain. The chain does not contact the sprocket teeth directly, has side play for alignment and this seems like a more durable design.
This was a low-hours machine that would start and run under no load but would not cut; it got fuel starved and quit. The problem was a corrosion buildup in the metal part of the fuel filter.
Added note 5/2016:
This EZAO saw ran well for a several years, then it quit. I installed a carb kit. Still a hard start (took a lot of pulls and priming). Ran about a half hour and quit. No spark. Check the electrical. No obvious shorts or such. Removing the flywheel to check the points involved removing the coil to get space for a little pry bar under the wheel, removing the retaining lock nut with a power ratchet and replacing it with a matching thread regular nut to absorb the blow. Apply the pry bar and lift the saw with it while striking the nut/crank with a small hammer. Sounds ugly but it worked after after 10 strikes or so it came off. No damage. Set and checked the points. Condenser and wires not shorted. Cleaned and reassembled everything. No spark. Ordered a new old stock coil, ebay. Found that saws with serial numbers below 91952092 use a A-65204 Phelon coil.
