XL 113 Information

[hill]

New fella here thanks to oldbigred...thanks for the link .

A little background....I recently inherited an XL and an XL-113 from my pops. These saws were actually purchased by my grandfather and have been used for light firewood duties throughout the years. I, on the other hand, am using them for major firewood duty/farm cleanup. I know very little about these
saws and have recently gotten into the maintenance/tune-up processes. I was just curious how much you guys might be able to tell me about the history of these saws and if this is a nice combination for what I'm doing. I typically use the littel XL for limbing and the 113 for the bigger stuff which seems to work well. I do have troubles with the 113 after warm up it's a bear to restart. I'm hoping the fuel line replacement I'll be doing this weekend will fix that problem. Sorry for the long windedness, but look forward to any information you guys are good for. Thanks for listening.

[OBR]

hey hill! good to see you could make it

[RBW]

Hi Hill, good to see you around!



I think your combo is a good one for anything up to about a 20" dia tree or so. You could go after bigger game than this with the 113, but there might be some better models around for large game.


As far as your restart problem, pull off your pullstart and check that your saw is fairly clean in and around the cylinder fins and the air gap. There is a thread on cleaning out the airgap in the tutorials section which can really help you understand this much overlooked area of these saws.

If thats clean you may still have a heat soak issue or a problem with losing prime.


Have you tried choking it or holding the throttle open when restarting it?

Knowing how it behaves when these two things are done will help narrow things down some. Try holding the throttle first as to not further flood the saw if this the problem. If that dosent work then try the choke.

Now problem if your a wind bag, we like that sort of thing!


Eric

[hill]

Thanks for the advice!! I must admit, I don't really know what you are referring to when you say air vent. You wouldn't happen to have a picture I could look at would you? I'm pretty new at tearing into these saws, so I just want to make sure I know where to look ;D

[OBR]

hill, what rbw mean by the "air gap" is the area between the crankcase/cylinder and the fuel tank. This area gives the crankcase/cylinder contact with air to aid in cooling. however, if this "air gap" gets plugged with sawdust, oil, dirt, etc. the heat from the engine gets transferred directly into the fuel tank causing pressurization issues and so forth. I would deffinitely recommend looking at rbw's tutorial "Hose out that gap"
Below is a pic of the "air gap" area on my super xl

[RBW]

Nice pic OBR!


Can I use it in the gap thread?



Hill, here is a link to the thread. Even if this isint your problem, its a good thing to do for your saw and as you will see I found some problems that needed addressing on the saw I was cleaning other than what I was after.


www.houseofhomelite.proboards55.com/index.cgi?board=tutorials&action=display&thread=205

[OBR]

You bet feel free to use the pic. I know that cleanliness is imperative to sustaining the performance and longevity of a saw. In short, the cleaner you keep them the better they work.

[hill]

Cool, thanks guys. I tore it down and cleaned everything out this weekend. It actually wasn't bad at all, so I don't think that was the problem, but hey that's another thing I've learned to keep an eye on!!

[RBW]

Try my restarting tips in reply #2 and let us know whats happening. Once we know the answers to this well have more to work with.



.

[hill]

Well, I'm still working on the fuel line. Apparently the one I ordered was a little too big. I tried everything including heating and lubing the new line, but in the end the new line snapped on me. I guess I was pulling a little too hard in my frustration!!

Anyway, I'm hoping to find some tygon tubing and a few grommets this week to rig some sort of repair that way. I'll keep you posted how that is going. I'm losing patience as I need to get this thing fixed. Again.....

[OBR]

Getting anywhere with the old girl hill? Hang in there u'll get her right, if it makes ya feel any better I've been working on rebuilding a Super XL for about 6 months now......

[RBW]

Tygon is your best bet, its not only indestructable, its also clear.



Having a clear fuel line can be very helpfull when trying to diagnose furl related problems.

[hill]

Oh, I'm just frustrated for lack of time more than anything. I've got the 3 youngins hangin' off my hip every time I try to do anything. I love my kids to death, but man they make it difficult sometimes to get anything done around the house. Anyway, I received the Tygon tubing and grommets yesterday in the mail and I'm going to attempt to get her done this weekend. I'm afraid the grommets may be to big for the hole, but I'll figure something out!! I'll keep you guys posted and thanks for the advice!!

[hill]

Well, I got her fired up this weekend. :-/Unfortunately, I had to do a little machining on the grommet I ordered (it was entirely too big for the hole). I basically had to make a sleeve that slides into the hole, so there's no "lip" on the inside of the fuel tank, but I think it will suffice. I fired her up and let her eat for 10 minutes or so and didn't see any leakage, so I HOPE this won't be a problem. I'll have to keep my eye on it.

On a side note....it took me at least 20 pulls to get that thing started!! Is this normal after draining the tank and replacing that line? How can I get this thing to fire in a few pulls? I've replaced the plug/air filter and now fuel line? Help!!!, my arms hurt!! ;D

[lesorubcheek]

I'm assuming that's 20 pulls on a dry carb, and that the choke was on the entire time. Even so, that's a bit too many. I'd check out the fuel pump diaphram in the carb and inspect the impulse holes through the plastic manifold the carb bolts too and make sure there's no blockage. Here's something that'll help answer some questions.... empty the tank and run her dry again. Fill up with gas again and this time watch the fuel line. On each pull, see how long before fuel is visible in the line. If its taking several pulls before any fuel is even drawn up, then you've definitely got either an impulse problem or a pump diaphram problem.

Dan

[RBW]

I agree with what Dan said, and Ill add my.02c.




Sometimes the pump flappers get stuck after sitting for a while with a dry carb, the filter can get gummy also which will impeed flow at first. My SXL starts within 5-7 pulls after sitting for 6 months with old gas in it.

[hill]

Any chance you can give me some instruction on how to go about checking the pump diaphram (how to get to it). Maybe a pic? I'm new at this maintenance stuff and I want to be sure to know what I'm looking for. Thanks for the tips!! And yes, carb was dry..choke on.

[lesorubcheek]

4 screws on the top of the carb. The rubber part will have 2 flaps. If the rubber feels stiff, it'll need replacing. Always make sure the gasket is on top of the rubber diaphram on the top of the carb. If you haven't opened up the carb yet, you may find all kinds of residue inside. Might plan for doing a carb kit, but then again, ya may not need to... just have to look and see what ya have first.

Dan

[hill]

Finally got to tear into the carb yesterday....the flappers were very flexible and everything looked extremely clean, so I'm thinking the carb is good . Any other possibilities or do you think it was just a matter of getting some fuel up through the line again? Thanks guys.

[rowdy235]

20 pulls IMO is a bit odd. My Super EZ hadn't been ran in god knows how long, it fired up with less than 10 pulls. You said the flappers were flexible? IMO, flexible is important, but they may have developed pinhole leaks. I'd replace them just to be on the safe side, for my saw they came in the carb kit I got for $7.95, well worth it.