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Post by riseandrun on Dec 8, 2011 18:51:41 GMT -5
Hi everybody,
I'm getting ready to put a 150 automatic together and want to make sure I seal the gas tank. I have some loctite 2b but want to use the best I can. Should I make a gasket? I'm not sure I have that much extra to put between halves. Any product names you've used?
Thanks
Kevin
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Post by tribulation138 on Dec 8, 2011 20:19:07 GMT -5
store: autozone
brand: seal all
type: gasket maker and hardener. gasl/oil resistant
comes in yellow tube. the more the better. best stuff ive come across
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Post by chainsawlady on Dec 8, 2011 20:30:28 GMT -5
Hi everybody, I'm getting ready to put a 150 automatic together and want to make sure I seal the gas tank. I have some loctite 2b but want to use the best I can. Should I make a gasket? I'm not sure I have that much extra to put between halves. Any product names you've used? Thanks Kevin I just read your thread that you have separated the gas tank on your 150. This is what Homelite has in the parts book in big black letters. "WARNING. DO NOT SEPARATE TANK HALVES" In all the years we worked on saws no one ever got one to seal. This is not true on some other Homelite saws. There is also a note with the starter page = "Rotor and nut A-68610 has left hand threads. Turn nut to the right to remove." I thought this might help someone else new to working on the 150. To remove the whole tank assy. remove 4 screws top and bottom of tank.Remoe air filter cover and two screws through the carburetor and the starter assy. Tank assembly will then slip off. Sometimes it might seem that it won't make it, but it will with a little moving around. chainsawlady. |
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Post by lesorubcheek on Dec 9, 2011 9:01:06 GMT -5
Yes, Joyce, absolutely correct. These tanks are not meant to be seperated.
I came across one that had been seperated and wouldn't seal. Here's the trick I used to fix it. Lay a piece of fine grit emory paper on a flat surface. A pane of glass works great. I used glass sitting on the table saw. spray it down with WD40 or similar oil to keep the cloth from gumming up. lay the mating surface a tank half and swirl away like you're waxing a car. Check the surface until its uniformly shiny. Do the same for each half. When finished, clean them up well and you're ready to seal. I used a Permatex non-hardening sealer that stated it was gas resistant. I think just about any sealer as long as its reistant to gas/oil will work fine. If I ever have to do this agian, I'm going to try Threebond. Oh yea, also used some blue Loctite on the screws. Need to make sure they stay tight.
I fixed this one maybe 2 or 3 years ago and its still fine. So it can be done. Just make sure the mating sufaces are as true as possible.
Best of luck,
Dan
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Post by powerking on Dec 9, 2011 9:55:30 GMT -5
I went down a similar road with a SXL-925; used a new gasket on the tank halves. It weeped gas at the seam. Took it apart and tried various gas resistant sealers and it still weeped gas. The final solution was to use JB-Weld on the gasket surfaces (and no gasket) to "seal" the deal. Homelite used a black tank sealer coating in later clam-shell style tanks like the Super-EZ, SXL, and x50 style saws for a reason. Current tank sealants that would be recommended are Kreem, and POR-15. www.advanced-rust-protection.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=P&Product_Code=CTRK&Category_Code=TankSealersTom (PK) |
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Post by riseandrun on Dec 9, 2011 16:24:26 GMT -5
Hey all, Thanks for the great suggestions. Dan I have an autozone near me and will try your seal all. I have used your method of truing surfaces on motorcycle petcocks with success and have actually done 1 side already. It must be right ;D Chainsaw lady..I've learned lots of lesson's the hard way unfortunately. I know at this point it was a mistake. I saw the screws holding it together and just figured the manufacturer put it together?!?! That's where I lost some of those parts I ordered from you. I will definitely take it slower next time.  Tom the Kreem idea is a great one, and there is evidence in this tank that it was sealed with the black tank sealer. I was just trying to give the saw a through cleaning, and I didn't think this one through. Thanks again.... hopefully I'll have some happy news to post in the next few weeks.  Kevin |
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Post by hotajax on Dec 11, 2011 8:23:43 GMT -5
I tried to stop my leak between the halves with the JB Weld original 2-part tube. No good. I guess there's just too much oil remaining in the gasket between the 2 halves. Next stop - whoever sells sealant that goes INSIDE the tank.
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Post by tribulation138 on Dec 11, 2011 8:32:39 GMT -5
I tried to stop my leak between the halves with the JB Weld original 2-part tube. No good. I guess there's just too much oil remaining in the gasket between the 2 halves. Next stop - whoever sells sealant that goes INSIDE the tank. your just gonna have to take tank apart clean it and re-seal it |
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Post by riseandrun on Dec 18, 2011 21:08:33 GMT -5
Trued up both halves of the 150 with 400 grit paper, WD-40 and a piece of flat marble tile. When it looked like I had both sides clean, I cleaned everything up and put on a bead of the seal all and reassembled. It's sat in the downstairs now for about a week so I decided to water test the tank and no leaks! Will try some gas next and then reassembly.
Thanks again for the advice.
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Post by powerking on Dec 19, 2011 0:11:49 GMT -5
Testing the tank for leaks with water is a good "basic" one, but since gasoline molecules are much smaller than H2O ones, it could still leak like a sieve and ruin your day...
Tom (PK)
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Post by mooney on Dec 19, 2011 17:13:49 GMT -5
What be thee status of thine gas tank seal, RandR? Success?
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Post by 925fetish on Dec 20, 2011 15:14:48 GMT -5
Threebond is it,I've sealed many things that have to do with gas tanks.It works every time.
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Post by riseandrun on Dec 20, 2011 18:46:16 GMT -5
I'm happy to report that as of this morning when I left for work, the tank had not leaked any gas at all. I filled it last night around 7 p.m. That's about 12 hours. Only problem is I should have ordered a gas cap gasket from chainsawlady when I got all the other parts!
I used the seal all I got from auto zone and was actually a little surprised it worked. Only because I should have done it in a warmer envirnment than my 40 degree garage. (for flowage reasons. Didn't seem like the seal all was attaching too good to the cold metal)
Hey 925 where does one find the threebond from? Store name?
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Post by powerking on Dec 25, 2011 13:22:46 GMT -5
Guess I was wrong in Reply # 9 about molecule size of H20 VS gasoline one's. Take it from a high school'er to give us the answer (LOL). www.newton.dep.anl.gov/askasci/mats05/mats05037.htmIt's all about surface tension.... So much for my recall about college chemistry stuff.. Tom (PK). |
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Post by 925fetish on Dec 27, 2011 5:19:56 GMT -5
The easiest place I've found is go to your nearest yamaha dealer,and ask for a tube of yamabond.It's threebond,just branded for yamaha.I went to O'reilly's and asked for Threebond,and they didn't know what I was talking about.The only reason I know about the stuff is I work for the company that remans those junk Duramax for GM,and it's what they use to seal them up,no gaskets most places,just Threebond.It works great.
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