Post by sugarcreeksaws on Apr 16, 2008 12:03:33 GMT -5
Hi Everyone,
A House of Homelite forum member, Matt Berry, or, kentuckyhillbilly as you may know him on this site, has agreed to share his knowledge in applying water slide decals. Text and pictures are provided here to help you achieve a professional look with your decals!
The second section is on applying self-adhesive decals. We will be able to answer any questions you might have on them.
We will leave this thread open for new posts so all forum members can ask questions....Matt has agreed to check the section periodically and answer your questions.
Thank you, Matt! Guys like yourself help make this a hobby that anyone can enjoy. And who doesn't get enjoyment from seeing these old masterpieces restored!
Decals are easy to apply and you'll get professional results if you follow these instructions:
I've been building plastic model airplanes and armor for years and the techniques I'm describing here are what the top modelers use. I've also used these same techniques on some motorcycles I've restored with excellent results.
A decal is a decal regardless of where you are applying them. It doesn’t matter if it's a model airplane or a saw. These techniques will give your decals a "painted on" look.
The biggest problem with decals is what's commonly referred to as "silvering". This is when the decal doesn't adhere completely to the surface and leaves opaque white, or "silver" patches. This is the air trapped under the decal.
If there is a minor imperfection in the finish, this also won't allow the decal to settle down, thus, causing "silvering". The following techniques will eliminate the possibility of "silvering" and give you results that you will be proud to show off.
It is absolutely imperative that you buy the setting solutions along with the water slide decals. Period!! These are as important as the decals themselves.
The setting or "wetting" solution breaks the surface tension, and allows the decal to slide on the surface and suck down into details. Micro-SET is perfect for this.
The decal solvent softens the carrier film, melting the decal into details. Micro-SOL is your best choice for this.
Both Micro-SET and Micro-SOL are available for order with your decals in the “Pricing for Decal Sets” thread under the SCS Help Desk. Here is a picture showing the difference. The left side used no wetting solution/solvent. The right side used both.
Decals like a slick glossy surface to adhere to, so, plan on clear coating your saw parts prior to applying the decals as well as after the decals are applied. Just as a note, the realistic models you see of military aircraft have a flat finish, but they were clear coated with a high gloss prior to decaling, and top coated with a clear flat finish after the decals were dried.
For this discussion, I will be using a scrap model airplane wing as viewed in the photos provided.
Let's get started!!!!
Water Slide Decals
What you will need:
your decals of course!
tweezers
paper towel
Q-tips
small container for water
decal setting solution
decal solvent
small soft paint brush
SETUP
Make sure you're working in an uncluttered area with good lighting. Work with one decal at a time and keep the others well clear of your work area until you're ready for them. If you screw up and spill your water and get all the decals wet, you will have a problem and it's a mess! (I learned this the hard way!). Once a decal is wet it must be used right away, it will not loosen from the backing paper a second time.
PART PREPARATION
1. Paint your part the desired color.
2. Clear coat your part with some sort of high gloss finish, I'm not going to tell you what product to use here as there are many choices available. I'm using clear lacquer sprayed through my airbrush on the wing you see in the photos.
3. Follow manufacturer’s instructions on letting the clear coat completely dry. DO NOT rush this as this can create a bigger mess.
Water Slide Decal Application
1. You're now ready to apply your decal. Fill your water container with luke warm water, not hot water, and, holding the decal at the edge with your tweezers, dip the decal into the water for 10 - 15 seconds (NO LONGER).
2. Now lay it face up onto the paper towel and allow it to sit until the decal comes loose from the backing paper. This can take anywhere from a few seconds to a few minutes depending on the decal. You can test to see if it's loose with a Q-tip. Do not, I repeat, do not touch the decal with your finger. They like to stick to your fingers and you will most likely ruin it if it does.
3. While you're waiting for the decal to loosen from the backing, apply the setting solution on the area where the decal is going. Get it nice and wet.
4. You're now ready to apply the decal. Hold the decal at the edge with the tweezers and, using a Q-tip, slide the decal onto the part. The setting solution will allow it to be moved around. Once you get the decal where you want it, carefully blot up the excess setting solution with a paper towel and/or Q-tips. You want to “lightly press” the decal onto the surface. Take a minute and look at it to make absolutely sure it's where you want it. If it needs to be moved, apply more setting solution so you can move it. Now let it set for a few minutes and it will stick in place.
5. Now it's time to apply the solvent solution to the decal. Just paint it on top of the decal with your brush. DO NOT TOUCH OR ATTEMPT TO MOVE THE DECAL AFTER THE SOLVENT IS APPLIED! If you do you'll ruin the decal - guaranteed. The solvent solution melts the decal and allows it to snuggle down over any imperfections. The decal will wrinkle up and look terrible after you apply the solvent - but don't freak out, it will straighten out and look great after it dries. Again, DO NOT TOUCH IT UNTIL IT'S DRY!!!
6. Wait 24 hours for the decal to completely dry.
7. If any "silvering" occurs, or, if there are any bubbles in the decal, simply prick the area with a pin or needle and apply more solvent. Important! – only apply one coat of solvent at a time. If you think you need to apply more solvent, wait another 24 hours and see how it looks. You can repeat this process of applying one coat of solvent and waiting 24 hours several times if necessary.
8. After the decal is dry (in other words, a full 24 hours after the last solvent application) and the job suits you, you will need to carefully wash the part and remove the setting solution that has dried on the part. If you do not, ugly brown stains will show up a couple of years down the road. I use a small soft brush and a very mild soap solution for this. It does not take much to do the job. Do not flood the decal. Just work around the edges and be very careful. The best advice here is to wash quickly and blot the area dry. Just keep in mind that the decal adhesive, the setting solution and the solvent are all water soluble. So, you don’t want to get the decal wet again for very long. This is not difficult, you just need to be aware of it.
9. After the part dries from the washing, clear coat over the decal to protect it and you're done!
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Self-Adhesive Decals
Self-adhesive decals are offered in limited supplies in Sugar Creek Supply due to the fact that they are currently the only way we can provide white letters and features on a clear background. We should have the capability to provide white letters and features on clear water slide material by the end of the summer at the latest. Until then, these decals still give a spectacular look to an old saw!
What you will need:
your decals of course!
tweezers
cotton balls
wetting solution (see below)
two small soft paint brushes
2" section of 1" heater hose
Placement Solution for Self-Adhesive Decals
Here is a great solution that you can mix at home and have in a mister bottle for applying your self adhesive decals. This will fit in a 16 oz. spray bottle.
Mix the following:
1 3/4 cup water
1/4 cup Isopropyl alcohol
2 drops dish soap (small drops)
SETUP
Make sure you're working in an uncluttered area with good lighting. Work with one decal at a time and keep the others well clear of your work area until you're ready for them.
PART PREPARATION
1. Paint your part the desired color.
2. Clear coat your part with some sort of high gloss finish, I'm not going to tell you what product to use here as there are many choices available. I'm using clear lacquer sprayed through my airbrush on the wing you see in the photos.
(see clear coated picture above)
3. Follow manufacturer’s instructions on letting the clear coat completely dry. DO NOT rush this as this can create a bigger mess.
4. Trim your self-adhesive decals. Since the clear self-adhesive material is thicker than the water slide material, you will want your decal "edge" to be closer to the decal patterns to help hide the slight edge. While trimming, hold the decal with a gloved hand or tweezer to minimize getting finger oils on the decals.
Self-Adhesive Decal Application
1. The successful application of a self-adhesive decal is a little different as compared to the water slide decals. These decals are slightly thicker than the water slide decals and are not responsive to MicroSet or MicroSol as the water slide decals are.
2. Prepare a self adhesive placement solution per the above instructions.
3. With the spray bottle set on fine mist, spray a liberal coat of the placement solution on the area where the decal will be placed.
4. You're now ready to apply the decal. Taking an exacto knife and/or tweezers, peel the decal off the back paper, being careful not to touch the adhesive side (Needless to say, we unfortunately have experience here)...this will leave a nasty finger print if you do. As you start to peel back the decal from the backing paper, press the decal onto the surface of the little exacto blade...this makes it easier to pull away from the backing paper.
5. Place the decal onto the wetting solution by starting at one edge and "rolling" the decal onto the surface...placement is not critical as you will be able to move the decal into position.
6. Your probably wondering what the heater hose is for...it makes a fantastic soft, pliable roller! Make sure the heater hose is clean and your hands are clean - rubber gloves are ideal if you have them. Get the decal as close as possible to its final position...it will slide around easily on the wetting solution. Starting at one edge, apply downward pressure on the heater hose and begin to slowly roll the heater hose across the decal. This will push the excess wetting solution and any air bubbles out the other end. Blot up the excess wetting solution and check for decal position...you can slide it if it has moved a little. Roll the decal again and check to see how it looks. Twice has always been enough for me, however, you can roll it several more times if necessary. Blot off any excess wetting solution after each rolling.
7. Wait 24 hours for the decal to completely dry.
8. Take a cotton ball and clean water and lightly wash the area to remove any dried wetting solution residue. Blot dry.
9. After the part dries, inspect the decal for any dried residue from the wetting solution. Take a damp lint free cloth and lightly clean the deal surface to remove the residue and prepare the surface for clear coat. Now clear coat over the decal to protect it and you're done!
A House of Homelite forum member, Matt Berry, or, kentuckyhillbilly as you may know him on this site, has agreed to share his knowledge in applying water slide decals. Text and pictures are provided here to help you achieve a professional look with your decals!
The second section is on applying self-adhesive decals. We will be able to answer any questions you might have on them.
We will leave this thread open for new posts so all forum members can ask questions....Matt has agreed to check the section periodically and answer your questions.
Thank you, Matt! Guys like yourself help make this a hobby that anyone can enjoy. And who doesn't get enjoyment from seeing these old masterpieces restored!
Decals are easy to apply and you'll get professional results if you follow these instructions:
I've been building plastic model airplanes and armor for years and the techniques I'm describing here are what the top modelers use. I've also used these same techniques on some motorcycles I've restored with excellent results.
A decal is a decal regardless of where you are applying them. It doesn’t matter if it's a model airplane or a saw. These techniques will give your decals a "painted on" look.
The biggest problem with decals is what's commonly referred to as "silvering". This is when the decal doesn't adhere completely to the surface and leaves opaque white, or "silver" patches. This is the air trapped under the decal.
If there is a minor imperfection in the finish, this also won't allow the decal to settle down, thus, causing "silvering". The following techniques will eliminate the possibility of "silvering" and give you results that you will be proud to show off.
It is absolutely imperative that you buy the setting solutions along with the water slide decals. Period!! These are as important as the decals themselves.
The setting or "wetting" solution breaks the surface tension, and allows the decal to slide on the surface and suck down into details. Micro-SET is perfect for this.
The decal solvent softens the carrier film, melting the decal into details. Micro-SOL is your best choice for this.
Both Micro-SET and Micro-SOL are available for order with your decals in the “Pricing for Decal Sets” thread under the SCS Help Desk. Here is a picture showing the difference. The left side used no wetting solution/solvent. The right side used both.
Decals like a slick glossy surface to adhere to, so, plan on clear coating your saw parts prior to applying the decals as well as after the decals are applied. Just as a note, the realistic models you see of military aircraft have a flat finish, but they were clear coated with a high gloss prior to decaling, and top coated with a clear flat finish after the decals were dried.
For this discussion, I will be using a scrap model airplane wing as viewed in the photos provided.
Let's get started!!!!
Water Slide Decals
What you will need:
your decals of course!
tweezers
paper towel
Q-tips
small container for water
decal setting solution
decal solvent
small soft paint brush
SETUP
Make sure you're working in an uncluttered area with good lighting. Work with one decal at a time and keep the others well clear of your work area until you're ready for them. If you screw up and spill your water and get all the decals wet, you will have a problem and it's a mess! (I learned this the hard way!). Once a decal is wet it must be used right away, it will not loosen from the backing paper a second time.
PART PREPARATION
1. Paint your part the desired color.
2. Clear coat your part with some sort of high gloss finish, I'm not going to tell you what product to use here as there are many choices available. I'm using clear lacquer sprayed through my airbrush on the wing you see in the photos.
3. Follow manufacturer’s instructions on letting the clear coat completely dry. DO NOT rush this as this can create a bigger mess.
Water Slide Decal Application
1. You're now ready to apply your decal. Fill your water container with luke warm water, not hot water, and, holding the decal at the edge with your tweezers, dip the decal into the water for 10 - 15 seconds (NO LONGER).
2. Now lay it face up onto the paper towel and allow it to sit until the decal comes loose from the backing paper. This can take anywhere from a few seconds to a few minutes depending on the decal. You can test to see if it's loose with a Q-tip. Do not, I repeat, do not touch the decal with your finger. They like to stick to your fingers and you will most likely ruin it if it does.
3. While you're waiting for the decal to loosen from the backing, apply the setting solution on the area where the decal is going. Get it nice and wet.
4. You're now ready to apply the decal. Hold the decal at the edge with the tweezers and, using a Q-tip, slide the decal onto the part. The setting solution will allow it to be moved around. Once you get the decal where you want it, carefully blot up the excess setting solution with a paper towel and/or Q-tips. You want to “lightly press” the decal onto the surface. Take a minute and look at it to make absolutely sure it's where you want it. If it needs to be moved, apply more setting solution so you can move it. Now let it set for a few minutes and it will stick in place.
5. Now it's time to apply the solvent solution to the decal. Just paint it on top of the decal with your brush. DO NOT TOUCH OR ATTEMPT TO MOVE THE DECAL AFTER THE SOLVENT IS APPLIED! If you do you'll ruin the decal - guaranteed. The solvent solution melts the decal and allows it to snuggle down over any imperfections. The decal will wrinkle up and look terrible after you apply the solvent - but don't freak out, it will straighten out and look great after it dries. Again, DO NOT TOUCH IT UNTIL IT'S DRY!!!
6. Wait 24 hours for the decal to completely dry.
7. If any "silvering" occurs, or, if there are any bubbles in the decal, simply prick the area with a pin or needle and apply more solvent. Important! – only apply one coat of solvent at a time. If you think you need to apply more solvent, wait another 24 hours and see how it looks. You can repeat this process of applying one coat of solvent and waiting 24 hours several times if necessary.
8. After the decal is dry (in other words, a full 24 hours after the last solvent application) and the job suits you, you will need to carefully wash the part and remove the setting solution that has dried on the part. If you do not, ugly brown stains will show up a couple of years down the road. I use a small soft brush and a very mild soap solution for this. It does not take much to do the job. Do not flood the decal. Just work around the edges and be very careful. The best advice here is to wash quickly and blot the area dry. Just keep in mind that the decal adhesive, the setting solution and the solvent are all water soluble. So, you don’t want to get the decal wet again for very long. This is not difficult, you just need to be aware of it.
9. After the part dries from the washing, clear coat over the decal to protect it and you're done!
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Self-Adhesive Decals
Self-adhesive decals are offered in limited supplies in Sugar Creek Supply due to the fact that they are currently the only way we can provide white letters and features on a clear background. We should have the capability to provide white letters and features on clear water slide material by the end of the summer at the latest. Until then, these decals still give a spectacular look to an old saw!
What you will need:
your decals of course!
tweezers
cotton balls
wetting solution (see below)
two small soft paint brushes
2" section of 1" heater hose
Placement Solution for Self-Adhesive Decals
Here is a great solution that you can mix at home and have in a mister bottle for applying your self adhesive decals. This will fit in a 16 oz. spray bottle.
Mix the following:
1 3/4 cup water
1/4 cup Isopropyl alcohol
2 drops dish soap (small drops)
SETUP
Make sure you're working in an uncluttered area with good lighting. Work with one decal at a time and keep the others well clear of your work area until you're ready for them.
PART PREPARATION
1. Paint your part the desired color.
2. Clear coat your part with some sort of high gloss finish, I'm not going to tell you what product to use here as there are many choices available. I'm using clear lacquer sprayed through my airbrush on the wing you see in the photos.
(see clear coated picture above)
3. Follow manufacturer’s instructions on letting the clear coat completely dry. DO NOT rush this as this can create a bigger mess.
4. Trim your self-adhesive decals. Since the clear self-adhesive material is thicker than the water slide material, you will want your decal "edge" to be closer to the decal patterns to help hide the slight edge. While trimming, hold the decal with a gloved hand or tweezer to minimize getting finger oils on the decals.
Self-Adhesive Decal Application
1. The successful application of a self-adhesive decal is a little different as compared to the water slide decals. These decals are slightly thicker than the water slide decals and are not responsive to MicroSet or MicroSol as the water slide decals are.
2. Prepare a self adhesive placement solution per the above instructions.
3. With the spray bottle set on fine mist, spray a liberal coat of the placement solution on the area where the decal will be placed.
4. You're now ready to apply the decal. Taking an exacto knife and/or tweezers, peel the decal off the back paper, being careful not to touch the adhesive side (Needless to say, we unfortunately have experience here)...this will leave a nasty finger print if you do. As you start to peel back the decal from the backing paper, press the decal onto the surface of the little exacto blade...this makes it easier to pull away from the backing paper.
5. Place the decal onto the wetting solution by starting at one edge and "rolling" the decal onto the surface...placement is not critical as you will be able to move the decal into position.
6. Your probably wondering what the heater hose is for...it makes a fantastic soft, pliable roller! Make sure the heater hose is clean and your hands are clean - rubber gloves are ideal if you have them. Get the decal as close as possible to its final position...it will slide around easily on the wetting solution. Starting at one edge, apply downward pressure on the heater hose and begin to slowly roll the heater hose across the decal. This will push the excess wetting solution and any air bubbles out the other end. Blot up the excess wetting solution and check for decal position...you can slide it if it has moved a little. Roll the decal again and check to see how it looks. Twice has always been enough for me, however, you can roll it several more times if necessary. Blot off any excess wetting solution after each rolling.
7. Wait 24 hours for the decal to completely dry.
8. Take a cotton ball and clean water and lightly wash the area to remove any dried wetting solution residue. Blot dry.
9. After the part dries, inspect the decal for any dried residue from the wetting solution. Take a damp lint free cloth and lightly clean the deal surface to remove the residue and prepare the surface for clear coat. Now clear coat over the decal to protect it and you're done!