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Post by alwaystraining on Aug 28, 2011 0:39:38 GMT -5
I bought this saw at a pawn shop for $53 after testing that it ran. When I got home I put chain oil in it, and started trying to cut something. It was not cutting well, it was smoking like a chimney, and leaking a lot of chain oil. Does anyone have a PDF of the manual for this saw? I found good IPL here: www.gardnerinc.com/recons/disclaimer-lg.phpThe chain oil seemed to leak out of the back and fall on the muffler, which I think was causing the smoke. I was looking at the IPL, and I seem to be missing the oil filter and duck bill valve, from "Housing & Handles" IPL, parts 44, 47, and 48. Do you think adding these parts will solve my problem? Where is a good place to order these parts from? I want to either sharpen or replace the chain? How do you decide which to do? How hard is it to sharpen them? I am new to chainsaws. How much are they to buy, and how do I know which one to buy so it works with my saw? |
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Post by MCS on Aug 28, 2011 8:15:36 GMT -5
The duck bill has to be there for the oiling system to work and to prevent oil getting into the crankcase. You may need a new line from the pulse port on the crankcase to the oil tank and you need a porous fitting between the line and the duck bill. The porous fitting may be in the bottom of the tank.
These small XL's were made for several years under different model names with slightly different designs. Is UT 10655 on the manufactures tag or is it just called and XL Automatic? What is the serial number?
Chains and sprockets.
Before you can buy a chain you will need to determine what size will work. It could be 1/4 pitch, 325 pitch or 3/8 LP. Look at the drive links on the chain and see if you can see a number stamped into them. How does the sprocket look for wear? Does the nose of the bar have a sprocket too or is it just steel?
Does your saw have one throttle trigger or two?
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Post by alwaystraining on Aug 28, 2011 13:02:14 GMT -5
Yeah looks like I will need that duckbill then, thanks. Do you think also the
How will I know if I need a new line from the pulse port on the crankcase? can you callout the part number from the IPL so I can be sure I know which line you are referring to? Also which is the part number for the porous fitting. I am pretty sure nothing is in the bottom of the tank, i will double check. I think you were refering to, 47, 69659B, CONNECTOR- Oil.
UT 10655A is on the manufactures tag with SN HM2310837,
the sprocket does not seem overly worn. The nose bar has a sprocket, it turns very well, it has some slight war on the teeth, but seems in good shape. the bar seems to be in very good shape as far as driving bearing with the chain, but the bar has no paint left on it and it is a bit pitted. I see something like "H1" stamped on the links of the chain.
The saw has one throttle trigger. I can take pictures of all of this if needed.
Thanks a lot for the help. I can't wait to get this saw humming, it is almost exactly like the one my dad bought used before I was born and still has running.
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Post by MCS on Aug 28, 2011 17:15:27 GMT -5
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Post by alwaystraining on Aug 29, 2011 8:59:22 GMT -5
Thank you for the information on my saw. It says "XL" on the side, but I guess you are saying it is really an "XL2" I will check out the pulse line further, but I think it is ok. The seller for the link you gave does not seem to sell the other parts I need, the part 47 CONNECTOR-Oil (69659B) and the oil filter part 44 FINDER-Oil (A68593) I can't find one online store that has all three parts listed. (I do need all three right?) I was linked to www.mowers4u.com who has a note on their site that if they don't list a part, you can call and they will order it. I will go this route unless someone else can advise otherwise. Also, I came across this. www.edgeandengine.com/webstore/downloads/homelite/xl_no_ut.pdfIs this for the older XL? It lists a plug (43) which I do not see on the IPL I linked previously. That other IPL I am working off came up when I typed in my UT number (minus the A on the end) so I trust it more. I am really enjoying this project, next I think I will tackle my blower which won't run at full throttle anymore. |
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Post by MCS on Aug 29, 2011 20:07:00 GMT -5
The XL is a single trigger version of the XL2. For awhile Homelite produced some XL saws without the diaphragm pump and the oiling system relied strictly on crankcase pulses to pressurize the oil tank with the hopes that oil would flow to the bar. If you look at the newer parts listing that you found you will see a note below the diaphragm pump.  Uploaded with ImageShack.usThere are several sites that have parts listing but the UT# and the parts listing don't always belong together - to much cutting and pasting. Item 43 is only used in saws that do not have a diaphragm pump. |
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Post by alwaystraining on Aug 30, 2011 8:16:22 GMT -5
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Post by MCS on Aug 30, 2011 8:41:41 GMT -5
I mentioned the XL-2 only for history. The XL-2 was introduced in 1972 and there was only the XL-2. As time progressed, Homelite created several off-spring of this design mostly to hold the price down to meet the other brands that had consumer saws.
I see you have the rewind off. Have you tried to slide the engine out of the case? If you have, look behind the top edge of the clutch and see if you have a plate similar to the one in the picture that I posted.
The only thing you have to watch closely when pulling the engine is the goofy little link between the throttle and carburetor.
I'm still betting that if you drained the oil and checked the bottom of the oil reservoir you'd find your missing pieces unless someone else has been working on it.
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Post by alwaystraining on Aug 30, 2011 21:05:59 GMT -5
Yeah, I had the housing completely off, I should of taken some pictures during dissassembly, but I think I can get it back together.
You were right. I checked and rechecked the oil tank. After shooting some compressed air in there and shaking it a lot I finally started hearing a rattle in there. Then I shook and one part after another fell out with some more determined jostling.
The lines seem to have worn a bit and don't fit well to the oil filter and connector anymore, they seem to have lost some elasticity. But I tied the oil filter on with a length of twistied tie, and the duckbill and connector on with some fishing line, so I might be able to get out of this whole experience without buying any new parts.
I will get it back together and see how she runs and then see what's next.
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Post by MCS on Aug 30, 2011 22:15:31 GMT -5
Give us an update in a couple of days.
BTW, before you mount the bar and chain, add chain oil and run the saw for a couple of minutes and see you have oil weeping from the oil port on the bar mount.
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Post by alwaystraining on Sept 4, 2011 19:29:01 GMT -5
Well I am up and running. The final touch was a new air filter and a new chain. I got the old chain sharpened for a spare. I scanned the yard for a tree that was looking at me wrong, found a dead one just wasting space and took it to pieces real quick. I love the one hand action. So in total I got this saw for $83 with a spare chain and spare oil filter.. thanks for the help and the advice  By the way, do you know how big the XL's engine is? how many CC's? |
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Post by MCS on Sept 4, 2011 22:34:41 GMT -5
Another one saved The XL-2 and XL are 1.6 cu in or 26.2 cc The Super 2 is 1.9 cu in or 31.2 cc |
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