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Post by riseandrun on Feb 9, 2010 11:03:07 GMT -5
Hi Guys, Been a long time since I sought the collective wisdom of this forum. I was at an auction last weekend and picked up a 330 for $37.50. It's complete. Has bar oil and gas in it even. I was hoping it would just start right up, but why would anybody get rid of a running chain saw ? I'm looking for info on what the gas mix is, and the on/off switch should be up or down? At least I think that's what the toggle switch is for. The saw seams to have a lot of compression. My start procedure has been locking the gas lever, putting the switch up and pull. Missing anything? I've read the post of the "330 intake boot change". That will be next after gas change, spark plug change. I'll post pictures after I find my camera download cord. Thanks for any help. Is there a manual anywhere to download?
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Post by lesorubcheek on Feb 9, 2010 13:34:58 GMT -5
Don't forget the choke. The 330 uses the funky rotating knob on top of the air chamber cover, kinda like the S25 Poulans. For some reason, the Poulan feels normal, but it never seemed right on the 330.
Ya might wanna remove the air chamber cover, check things out, and pour a bit of mix in the carb to see if it'll fire. You'll be able to see the how the choke works with the lid off. When puttin the cover back on, I always push the choke closed on the carb and rotate the knob to full choke position and ite always seems to line up.
As for mix, use the ratio recommended on the mix oil. Personally, I go 40:1 just for kicks.
Dan
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Post by mikevan on Feb 9, 2010 17:42:22 GMT -5
Any used saw I get, I always check for spark - Always!
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Post by mikem on Feb 9, 2010 18:49:41 GMT -5
A saw needs three things to run:
1) Spark at the right time. 2) Compression 3) The correct air to fuel ratio.
I would check the spark first. Unscrew the spark plug and re-connect the spark plug wire. Ground the plug against the cylinder and pull the starter rope. Do you have a nice blue spark at the plug tip ?
If you do... Fill the tank with fresh fuel mix(32/1)Take a spray bottle of 32/1 fresh mix and spray it in the carb. Does it try to start or pop ? If it does try to start and will not continue to run...you have a fuel delivery problem, either fuel line, filter or carb problem. We can help more if you isolate the problem to a system and go from there.
The 330 has a bad habit of the intake boot deteriorating, leaning the saw out and causing major problems as you read in the tutorial.
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Post by riseandrun on Feb 9, 2010 21:53:53 GMT -5
Thanks for the suggestions guys. I checked for spark. Now I know switch up is on. Spark looked pretty good to me. Felt pretty good too ;D Drained the tank in alarm cause the gas I sucked up into my clear gas line looked too clear. After emptying the tank I saw there was some oil mix color. Put a little in the carburator and WHAT A ROAR!!! For about 3 seconds. Does this mean that the carb boot is ok? I didn't run anymore than that because I want to put fresh in with the right mix. Am I correct in that 40:1 means more oil than 32:1 and therefore more lubrication? I'm thinking more lube and more life of the saw. Not that I will probably use it that much, I'm just curious. Thanks again for the help. If I still should check the boot I will try this weekend. KW Wife couldn't find my camera cable either. Now I know it's really lost.
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Post by polardoo on Feb 9, 2010 22:32:00 GMT -5
So It will fire with gas in carb. This tells you that it will run if alot of other things are ok. Fill the tank and try a couple primes and see if it will pick up fuel and run. If not, youll probably want to start with a carb kit. The boot may or may not be torn but its a good sized job and you want to eliminate some other problems first. 32 parts gas, 1 part oil richer with oil than 40 parts gas, 1 part oil
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Post by mikevan on Feb 10, 2010 6:02:03 GMT -5
Thanks for the suggestions guys. I checked Am I correct in that 40:1 means more oil than 32:1 and therefore more lubrication? I'm thinking more lube lost. Exact oposite!!!!
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Post by MCS on Feb 10, 2010 9:04:23 GMT -5
32:1 Mix There are 16 cups in a gallon and 32 cups in two gallons, so a cup (1/2 pint) in two gallons of gas is a 32:1 mix. They sell 8oz cans of oil which makes it easy to to measure and mix. Two little cans and 4 gallons of gas.
40:1 came about with 5 gallon gas cans more than anything. One pint to 5 gallons is 40:1
50:1 is really 48:1 one pint in 6 gallons
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Post by mikem on Feb 10, 2010 10:33:45 GMT -5
Now you know it has fire and compression. The problem lies somewhere between your fuel filter and where the fuel/air mixture exits the carb. I would start as follows: 1) Fish your filter out of the tank w/ a hooked wire. remove, clean w/ carb cleaner & re-install. Is the fuel line soft and mushy ? If so, plan to replace with tygon. 2) Try to start the saw again. If it will not start, chances are good your carb is gummed up with varnish and requires a rebuild. Not hard, the kit is about $7 and will give you piece of mind. The carb mfgr will have specific rebuild instructions on their website with an IPL that makes it MUCH easier. Some folks have luck w/ taking the carb apart,cleaning and putting the old rubber gaskets back in but I think it's risky....and to save $7 ?? 3) That saw is about 15 years old. I have 2 and my younger brother has one. All have required a boot change. Now would be a good time to do it as you have the carb off for rebuild. The tutorial here is excellent...follow it and you can not go wrong. 4) While you have saw torn down for the boot, change the impulse line from the crankcase to the oil pump. It is easy access and will prevent future chain oiling problems. The OEM line is chintzy, tends to kink and cause the oil pump to stop pumping oil to your chain.
Looks like your weekend will be busy, but it is a fun project...You will enjoy it. That 330 is a good saw and will cut lots of firewood.
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Post by RBW on Feb 10, 2010 13:16:35 GMT -5
Yep, as stated above.
You will need some Beer to follow the tutorial correctly. Go through it and replace all the rubber and clean the carb. Their really a nice saw for what they are.
.
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Post by mikem on Feb 10, 2010 14:18:56 GMT -5
Yep, as stated above. You will need some Beer to follow the tutorial correctly. Go through it and replace all the rubber and clean the carb. Their really a nice saw for what they are. . I donated my spare 330 to a vet who just returned from Iraq. He called me yesterday and said what a great saw it was for clearing his newly aquired 10 acres that was covered in brush( Redberry Cedar). Made me feel good it is still running good. The saw had been on E-Bay as a "parts saw"....ripped boot.
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Post by riseandrun on Feb 10, 2010 17:39:16 GMT -5
I again appreciate the expertise. Is there any beer that's better to drink while following the tutorial? I noticed one more thing with the carb, air filter, choke cover. The screws bottom out, but the cover will lift up almost 1/4 inch? They look like they're the right ones in that only about the last 1/4 in. of a 1" 1/4 screw has threads. Mikem you are to be highly commended for your generosity to the vet. We can't do to much for these guys. KW
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Post by mikem on Feb 10, 2010 20:55:42 GMT -5
KW....
No special beer with the tutorial...as long as it not "near beer"...that stuff they drink in Utah.
That does not sound right with your airbox cover lifting up 1/4 inch, But I will have to look at my saw tomorrow to confirm the length of the bolt. My initial thought is the bolt is the wrong length(too long) and bottoms out before the cover is down all the way. BTW...I may not get to the saw tomorrow. It is at the farm(16 miles) and we are supposed to get 3 inches of SNOW tonight. Don't laugh...that doesn't happen very often here. No snowplows for 500 miles !!
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Post by riseandrun on Feb 13, 2010 13:06:16 GMT -5
Finally got a new card reader. Pictures as promised. The other side. Here's the carb. Looks clean to me, but I know that doesn't mean much. No fuel filter. Do you think that's the original fuel line? The plastic pitcher has the old gas in it. When I did a compression check I only got 60 lbs. I'm hoping I did it wrong. Screwed in my K&D compression tester but no crush washer. Pull start cord three times. Pulls hard. Thanks again for the help.
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Post by polardoo on Feb 13, 2010 22:32:46 GMT -5
A two stroke needs a bunch of pulls to get your compression reading with the throttle open. Pull until it wont go any higher. 120 lbs and it will run fine
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Post by mikem on Feb 14, 2010 8:51:41 GMT -5
That saw will clean up ok. The clutch cover may need some paint. No...not the original fuel lines. Those are tygon that someone replaced before you got it. Plan to re-use if they are not soft and mushy. Maybe I am just picky but I like to completely clean the saw before disassembly. It just seems to make the whole job go easier and prevents junk from getting somewhere it shouldn't. Do not get carb cleaner on your painted parts...it will take the paint off. I checked my 330 yesterday and I believe those are the correct bolts you have. Check the choke lever orientation in the cover with the position of the choke. The two must be the same when you put the cover back on.
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Post by mikem on Feb 14, 2010 8:54:40 GMT -5
Risendrun....do you have an IPL(illustrated parts list) for that saw? It is extremely helpful when you work on saws. If you don't, let us know and someone will help you out.
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Post by RBW on Feb 14, 2010 14:47:35 GMT -5
You can put an O-ring on your comp tester, works better than the crush washer as you now only need to hand tighten it. Hold the throttle wide open and pull untill the needle stops climbing or you feel weak. ;D You can splash some mix in the cyl to wet the rings if its dry or has been sitting for a while. Looks like a good candidate for a muffler mod. BTW, good to see you have some Fire Extinguishers in your garage. Everyone should have a few through out the house. .
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Post by riseandrun on Feb 14, 2010 19:14:18 GMT -5
Well you guys were right on with the diagnosis. And the how-to thread was a big help. Now the question is, I know some of you guys sell parts. I'd rather buy from here. The knowledge gained from you all does have a value to me. The lines on the bottom of the plate that the carb. and oiler attaches to look OK, but I would replace those also if there is a part no. Also the gasket that the oiler and carb sit on. I noticed that moving the saw around when I first got it I had gas leaking from somewhere. Maybe even the gas cap. Just parts I might be looking for. Thanks all.
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Post by riseandrun on Feb 14, 2010 19:18:15 GMT -5
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