SXL-AO Rebuild Question

[OBR]

Hi guys,
Things seem to be a little slow around here lately, but I was hoping I could get some opinions and info out of all you homelite experts.

First off as some of you already know when I got the saw it had no ignition what-so-ever, so I have been looking for a good used ignition with no success. I did however find a gentleman with a good used flywheel and ignition off another Super Xl. However the p/ns for those parts don't match those of my saw. So I was wondering if I should try those parts on my saw or just by a new ignition. (on a side note my flywheel has some damage to the back side [check the picture] -> s275.photobucket.com/albums/jj281/oldbigred/?action=view¤t=DSCN3536.jpg)

So given that info what should I do, I do not know for sure even if that is the correct flywheel for my saw as it was already removed from the saw when I got it. Opinions please.

My next question are pretty straight forward, first the nos cylinder i got from rbw has two small spots at the very bottom of the cyl bore where it appears the plating didn't quite 'finish' rite (little rough spots) will this affect anything or should i not worry about it. Also, how do you guys go about torquing down the cylinders on these saws as you can't really get a torque wrench down on the nuts. What should they be torqued to? Lastly, what should the ring gap be or do i need to worry about this since I have a new piston/cyl/rings setup? Thanks to everyone in advance. -Jared

[lawnmowertech37]

is this the same saw you spoke of in the pm you sent me ?

[OBR]

Yup sure is, just need a little no-how to get it back together correctly

[Deleted]

I would not worry about the flywheel. The rubbing is not likely to do any unbalance.
My concern would be on the part #........some are not interchangeable.....they need to match the same ignition system.......You can surf and do some reading on magnets recharge.

You need to ensure that the magnets are at the same position and pay attention on the lock key since it will change the timing.

Your saw came in 2 version...electronic or with points ..and the flywheel are NOT INTERCHANGEABLE....key position is different.

Many people did spend lots of waisted time with non-interchangeable parts.
If the timing is off and the saw kicks back...there is a possibility that your recoil will be destroyed.

The right part at the right place is the right answer........

Alain,

[Deleted]

For the jug nuts......the good old method......20lbs handtight.....with a touch of "locktite".

[Deleted]

For the plating when you say "the plating didn't quite 'finish' rite (little rough spots)"....seing some pics would help.
This is a pourus aluminium coating and the rough spot can be caused by either a poor electrostatic dip or a complete unit that should be reject due to the uneven chrome coating??

You cannot hone those cylinder .....Since it is "NOS" i would choose option one and use a 1200 grit emery cloth with oil and try to re-polish the spots.

[RBW]

Im wondering about the plating also. I have tens of cylinders and some, mostly the Tecomec ones have porosities in the lower portinsc of the cylinder, When I reasearched this before I was told as lokg as the "Spot" wasnt within the sweep of the rings they were considered to be good parts.



If it were within the ring area, this could lead to carbon buildup and problems resulting from that.


I have a really nice 924 with a cyl with this flaw within the ring area and it runs fine with about 30-40 hours on it.



.

[Deleted]

RBW......i agree with you ....on the bottom skirt there is not much friction. Mostly what you will findin this area is gaz/oil vapor from the base. Before you destroy a chrome cylinder it would take a lot of abuse. They use chrome because it is the smoothest and hardest alloy.
This is why you need to use carbon type rings to fit those.

[OBR]

Yeah I don't think the rough spot will be any kind of a problem as they are way down at the very bottom out of the ring sweep area and very tiny (can't even get a picture that will show them). I was able to find torque numbers for the bolts and I think I'm finally gonna get around to putting it back together. Will keep ya posted and probably have more questions as I progress. Thanks all.