My first Homies

[moore]

I bought these out of the local classifieds yesterday and quickly found this forum.
The blue one hasn't run in years and was full of old gas but the orange one will start and idle but then dies.
I think the orange one was mixed way too rich, buddy said he mixed it in the thank and might have screwed up the ratio.

Any ideas how old these gals are? The orange one says XL Automatic on the bar cover but the bar cover is a different color so I wasn't sure what exactly it is. Unless they made an orange/green color scheme?

[OBR]

Model: XL-12

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
MANUFACTURED BY: HOMELITE CORPORATION
PORT CHESTER, NEW YORK, U.S.A.
SERIES OR ASSEMBLY NUMBER:
YEAR INTRODUCED: 1964
YEAR DISCONTINUED: 1988
ENGINE DISPLACEMENT: 3.3 cu. in. (54.2cc)
NUMBER OF CYLINDERS: 1
CYLINDER BORE: 1.75 in. (44.4mm)
PISTON STROKE: 1.375 in. (34.9mm)
CYLINDER TYPE: Aluminum with chrome plated bore
INTAKE METHOD: Reed valve
MANUFACTURER ADVERTISED H.P.: not advertised
WEIGHT : 12 lbs. 12 oz. (5.8 kg.) powerhead only
OPERATOR CONFIGURATION: One Man operation
HANDLEBAR SYSTEM: Rigid
CHAIN BRAKE: none
CLUTCH: Centrifugal
DRIVE TYPE: Direct
CONSTRUCTION: Die cast magnesium
MAGNETO TYPE: Wico and Phelon, electronic on later series
CARBURETOR: Tillotson HS-4D, 142A, 179D, 195A series
MAJOR REPAIR KIT: RK-23HS
MINOR REPAIR KIT: DG-5HS/T
AIR FILTER SYSTEM: Flocked wire screen
STARTER TYPE: Homelite automatic rewind
OIL PUMP: Manual
OPERATING RPM: 6,000 under load, free speed 9,500 to 10,500
IGNITION TIMING: 30 degrees before TDC.
Position stator plate fully clockwise
BREAKER POINT SETTING: 0.015 in. (0.38mm)
FLYWHEEL/COIL AIR GAP: Position is fixed
SPARK PLUG TYPE: Champion TJ8J, later Champion RCJ-8J
SPARK PLUG GAP: 0.025 in. (0.63mm)
CRANKSHAFT MAIN BEARINGS: Caged needle roller
FUEL TANK CAPACITY: 20.9 fl. oz. (595 ml)
FUEL OIL RATIO: 32:1 with Homelite oil
RECOMMENDED FUEL OCTANE: Regular
MIX OIL SPECIFICATION: Homelite chain saw mix oil
CHAIN PITCH: 3/8 in.
CHAIN TYPE: Oregon 72D
BAR MOUNT PATTERN: 14 link
SHORTEST GUIDE BAR SUPPLIED: 12 in. (30cm)
LONGEST GUIDE BAR SUPPLIED: 24 in. (61cm)
COLOUR SCHEME: Homelite Blue enamel, later Red enamel
PAINT CODES:
ILLUSTRATED PARTS LIST:
SERVICE MANUAL:

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
COMMENTS: A very successful model that was much copied

There is some info on the blue saw, an 'XL-12' the other saw could be many different specific models as there were several XL Automatics made but I would venture to guess this is an earlier model (the metal air filter cover denotes that as later ones were plastic) If I was to guess I would say the saws are comparable in age early seventies maybe. There are a lot more knowledgable guys on this forum who could tell you more about these saws.

[moore]

Thanks that's a lot of good info. Is there a way to tell how old these are from the number plates?

[OBR]

That information was found on the www.acresinternet.com website and they have info on the majority of homelites made. As far as figuring out when exactly when a saw was made using the 'number plate' I am not sure. the 'UT' number is basically a model denotation so it isn't much help other than telling you a year range. I suppose there could be a way to use the serial number to figure out more closely when the saw was made provided you could find out during what years specific serial numbers were produced. There may be a better way, but like I said there are many more knowledgable people on here with more knowledge about such things than I do. Good luck with your saws, homelite made some of the best. -Jared

[moore]

Thanks again Jared! I cleaned the carb on the XL Auto today and it runs now, just need to tune it. I'd like to do a complete rebuild on it, I'm sure I'll be hitting RBW up for a lot of gaskets. What are the smart things to replace on these?

[OBR]

Things to replace depends upon the individual saws problem (if any) For gaskets I say clean the saw up well and run it for awhile and see if any leaks develop if so replace the faulty gasket(s). I'm sure it wouldn't hurt to rebuild the carb and I would suggest getting a new air filter and sparkplug. You could also check the gap between the points and flywheel and pull the fuel line out and make sure the filter is clean. Also, when you say rebuild, how much disassembly are you talking about? That affects the gaskets you will need, I would reccomend if you take something apart (i.e. the cylinder) that you put in new gaskets/seals as this prevents future problems. Best of luck. - Jared

oh I would also recommend removing the muffler and checking for scoring on the piston or cylinder, if you find any (depending on how severe) you may need an engine rebuild, but don't worry about minor scoring if compression is still good.

[moore]

I kinda wanted to do a complete rebuild, ie take every last bit of it apart. I'm not afraid to try anything mechanically, I just haven't worked on many chainsaws. I meant to grab my compression tester when I was out at my parents house tonight but I forgot it there, either way I'd like to do the rings (and the piston if it's scored I haven't looked yet) as I'm sure it's never been done and it's a rather old saw.

I should have made a list haha as I meant to grab my feeler gauges too to check the points but forgot them as well!

[lawnmowertech37]

keep us in mind for parts if rbw dont have them we have plenty air filters for them we even have a crankshaft # 63497-1

and a A12299AS transformer both new parts

thanks
calvin

that orange one give me the UT # i can check it to tell you what that saw is that ut # is on that id tag right by the muffler

[moore]

These are the only plates I see, not sure what the "UT Number" should look like. Does it make any difference that these are Canadian saws?
Anyway here they are:

[OBR]

Those are the plates the UT number should be on. a 'UT' number is just a set of numbers procceeded by the letters UT (i.e. UT-10045-C is a UT number for a Homelite SXL-AO) homelite uses the ut number basically as a specific model denotation. However, there must be some difference due to the fact they are Canadian built as I don't see a UT number either, maybe someone with knowledge of the Canadian saws can tell you how to figure out what UT the saws are. If you do a full teardown and rebuild I would look for a gasket kit (I believe I have seen some on ebay but others may have them, ask RBW as he seems to have a good number of parts for these saws) The gasket kits should have about everything you need in that respect. -Jared

[moore]

Well I took the mufflers off them and to my surprise, the blue one was in much better shape than the auto.
The piston looks pretty scuffed up....

[OBR]

Ouch. I think I would consider doing a top end job on that one (cyl, piston, rings, etc) but thats up to you.

[moore]

Yeah at least that, I'm concerned that the cylinder might be too scratched up but I can't get a decent pic until I take the whole thing apart.
Anyone have any input on how much a top end and a gasket kit is going to cost me? It'll be needing a muffler too.

[OBR]

Well, I am currently working on a top end for my saw and RBW is helpin me with parts, talk to him but I would say for around 75-100 bucks you could have pretty much a brand new engine.

[RBW]

Moore:



The saws you have predate the UT# system by a few years or so. Id say they were made in the late 60's.



As far as cyl/piston kits.....Im fresh out.



Your cylinder may be salvagable though, but we need some pics of the inside. If its just got pickup on it it can be cleaned up, it its heavily scored it needs replaced.



Jared, your parts go out tomorrow. I couldnt find the small end rod bearing so Im sending you a complete rod with the bearing pre installed from the factory.



.

[moore]

Well good news, with a thorough carb cleaning and some fresh gas the blue one fired right up and runs great! I probably shouldn't have started it in my basement though haha holy smoke but it's a blizzard outside and I couldn't wait.

[OBR]

Moore, i see rbw is out of parts for your saw but I believe I saw someone else on here had a new cylinder/piston kit if I find it again I'll let you know. Also watch ebay as a few float across there every now and again. I guess i didn't realize there were xl-12's made without ut's...guess you learn something new every day.
Eric, that sounds great ... I take it the check got there allright.

[OBR]

Ah ha I found it. Member 'wmrjr' said he had an sxl cyl and piston kit. You may want to check with him. The original thread is in the For Sale/Trade board it's titled "wanted: sxl cyl, piston," etc or something like that if you want to check it out. -jared