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Post by oleglass on Dec 21, 2009 19:37:55 GMT -5
I was told by the guy at the local NAPA store that he had some semi-synthetic oil that you could use for any gas/oil mix. IE, would work at 16:1, 32:1, 40:1 and 50:1 He said this oil would not smoke when ran in the saw.
Anybody know if this is correct?
I did buy one bottle and mix with one gallon of gas and used some in the XL I was working on. The saw ran fine and it did not smoke at all.
I thought this saw was supposed to use 16:1, as when originally bought.
Your thoughts on this oil, worth using for all different mixtures? Or should I stay with the original mixes? The 16:1 mix really smokes in most saws, and I would hate to ruin one because of the fuel mix.
Thanks!!
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Post by MCS on Dec 21, 2009 20:40:17 GMT -5
In the early '70s when the XL2 first hit the forest, there were two flavors of Homelite brand oil: 16:1 mix which was 30 weight and 32:1 which was 40 weight. For years, the industry standard for 2 cycle mix was 16:1 of 30 weight - half pint to the gallon - non detergent motor oil. The only thing I can say about the oil available today it that some is formulated as TCW which is Two Cycle Water and is designed to be run in outboard motors. The oil I just picked up for my snowmobile say that it is not for use in outboard marine engines. I think all two cycle oil manufactured today can be mixed at the ratios of 16:1 to 50:1 and some even say 100:1. Engine design plays a big part in the mix ratio. All real Homelites, including my 20MCS have chrome cylinders and roller/needle bearing support for the crank so even though the MCS says 16:1, that is all that was available went those manuals were printed. Here is a pretty straight forward article: www.utextension.utk.edu/publications/spfiles/sp268-I.pdf
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Post by oleglass on Dec 21, 2009 21:55:17 GMT -5
Very interesting article, enjoyed it.
Solves the question I asked, Thanks...
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Post by RandyMac on Dec 22, 2009 20:00:12 GMT -5
I run my old monsters on a 40 to 1 bottled premix, it uses synth oil and 89 octane "real gasoline" no alcohol or other junk. My McCullochs love it, my Homelite 600D was happy with it. It is expensive, for my use it works, long shelf life, Qt sized, enough fuel to make your ears ring.
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Post by woodplayer on Dec 23, 2009 9:46:58 GMT -5
I do pretty much the same as RandyMac, I run a premium oil, currently it is an ESSO synthetic blend, along with the highest octane fuel at the pump and mixed at 40:1. I use this in all my saws, old and new. I don't think you would need synthetic oil to run at this mixture, but make sure it is a premium (good quality) oil.
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Post by 925fetish on Dec 23, 2009 10:18:27 GMT -5
I'm working on an offbrand saw [2095 Jonsered] that burned up due to good ol' walmart poulan oil.Always use a premium brand oil.This guy spent over a grand for this saw,and now he is spending another 300+.
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Post by MCS on Dec 23, 2009 10:32:07 GMT -5
I run my old monsters on a 40 to 1 bottled premix, it uses synth oil and 89 octane "real gasoline" no alcohol or other junk. My McCullochs love it, my Homelite 600D was happy with it. It is expensive, for my use it works, long shelf life, Qt sized, enough fuel to make your ears ring. RM, Are you saying that you can buy a quart bottle of pre-mixed fuel? In Minnesota, all automobile gas has to have 10% ethanol and there are sometimes three grades available: 87, 89, 91 octane. Stations are allowed to sell non-oxygenated fuel but it is against the law to put this in a car unless the car or truck is really old, but it can be used in small engines like snowmobiles, chainsaws, lawn mowers and outboards. These pumps have a big warning label spelling out the rules for using it. Craig
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Post by 925fetish on Dec 23, 2009 10:56:53 GMT -5
I'm just re-inforcing what they are saying.A company that sells pro-grade saws will have pro-grade oil in their bottle.Along w/premium gas it's cheap insurance
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Post by MCS on Dec 23, 2009 12:38:53 GMT -5
None of the saw companies make their own oil and neither do the discount stores. There are different grades of oil and yes, some are better. Just about all oil has a rating. The correct rating for chainsaws would be API TC. It is easy to blame the obvious, the "cheap oil" but there could be other things. Two cycle oil designed for water cooled outboard engines and rated as TCW may not be a good choice for a hot running air cooled chainsaw. Poor air flow, an incorrect fuel oil mixture, someone messing with the carburetor, or something else could be the cause of the melt down but it may never be known. Just my thoughts................
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Post by 925fetish on Dec 23, 2009 13:21:50 GMT -5
Thats right,I've had to tell a few of them comercial guys that thought they were saving a little money buying boat oil [which says on the jug that it can be used on handheld machines] that their little trick cost them a top end.They don't make the oil,but the test it and certify it,and companys like stihl,jonsered,shidiawa,and others hold it to a higher standard than just the bare minimum to pass a standard
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Post by RandyMac on Dec 30, 2009 11:15:10 GMT -5
Yes, MCS, I use bottled fuel. California gasoline is weird stuff, it will destroy diaphrams quickly. My saws are happy with the mix, I tested a 1953 SilverKing with the 40 to 1, it did fine.
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Post by mikem on Jan 1, 2010 9:17:33 GMT -5
I am not a tribologist, but firmly believe the lubrication qualities of synthetics are much better than conventional oil, even in a two stroke. I use a synthetic oil, mixed at 32-1 in all my homelites and they seem to like it fine.
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Post by 925fetish on Jan 1, 2010 11:06:15 GMT -5
I really like the synthetics.They handle the heat and don't burn off.That way when you're out there w/the trusty ol' super and the screen starts to plug up you have more time to figure out somethings wrong before the piston and cyl. start swapping paint.
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Post by 5runners on Jan 3, 2010 19:22:54 GMT -5
Another yes on synthetics. I only use Klotz motorcycle racing oil. Kinda pricy though, last quart was 15.00
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Post by topgut on Jan 14, 2010 18:52:06 GMT -5
Amsoil Sabre is what I use. For a saw engineered to run 50:1 it can be mixed 100:1.
I mix it 32:1 for my homies and husky's and Jreds and everything else.
Never had a failure yet.
Don't worry, be happy, cut lots of wood............J
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Post by mikem on Feb 1, 2010 14:48:40 GMT -5
Amsoil Sabre is what I use. For a saw engineered to run 50:1 it can be mixed 100:1. I mix it 32:1 for my homies and husky's and Jreds and everything else. Never had a failure yet. Don't worry, be happy, cut lots of wood............J TopGut....This oil is available(by special order) locally but is expensive....about $14/qt. Have you ever used it 100/1 in a saw designed to run 50/1(pro saw) ??
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