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Post by mikem on Oct 9, 2009 18:18:13 GMT -5
I was recently given an XL(UT # 10695) by a friend who stated it no longer idled. I pulled the starter cover off and found the entire engine and carb space packed with oil soaked sawdust Thinking this was an abused saw issue, I removed the engine/carb assembly from the case(plastic) as this is the only way to access the carb. When I cleaned the case I found a hole burned in the back of the case behind the clutch and sprocket. The hole allowed sawdust to pack into the engine cavity. I think the muffler bolts loosened, the saw developed an exhaust leak and burned through the plastic. My question is whether it is possible(or worth it) to repair this hole... I am thinking: clean the edges with a burr bit, drill holes around the "hole" then epoxy a piece of metal flashing cut to fit the hole.
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Post by lesorubcheek on Oct 9, 2009 19:35:31 GMT -5
Sounds like you have a good plan. I'd do it just 'cause it looks like fun.
Dan
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Post by OBR on Oct 9, 2009 19:39:33 GMT -5
Ebay. You'll spend $50 worth of time on repairing that $10 part. imo.
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Post by Urbanchainsawer on Oct 9, 2009 22:42:46 GMT -5
Ditto on Ebay. One will show up sooner than later.
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Post by blackoak on Oct 10, 2009 0:02:05 GMT -5
I was recently given an XL(UT # 10695) by a friend who stated it no longer idled. I pulled the starter cover off and found the entire engine and carb space packed with oil soaked sawdust Thinking this was an abused saw issue, I removed the engine/carb assembly from the case(plastic) as this is the only way to access the carb. When I cleaned the case I found a hole burned in the back of the case behind the clutch and sprocket. The hole allowed sawdust to pack into the engine cavity. I think the muffler bolts loosened, the saw developed an exhaust leak and burned through the plastic. My question is whether it is possible(or worth it) to repair this hole... I am thinking: clean the edges with a burr bit, drill holes around the "hole" then epoxy a piece of metal flashing cut to fit the hole. Post a picture of the complete saw. I may have what you need in my junk pile. If so, you can have it for the shipping cost
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Post by mikem on Oct 10, 2009 21:20:51 GMT -5
Thanks for the offer blackoak, I don't have a pic of the whole saw. It is just a plain XL(UT#10695) with a the plastic case (not magnesium). The saw does have the primer bulb in the case. If you have one I would appreciate it.
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Post by mikem on Oct 10, 2009 21:25:47 GMT -5
Ebay. You'll spend $50 worth of time on repairing that $10 part. imo. I suspect you may be right but I really want to see how this industrial epoxy (Belzona) works on plastic. It works really well on metal but I have never had the opportunity to try it on plastic. I understand now why there is little respect for plastic saws.. . Had this been a metal cased saw, I would not have this problem.
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Post by mikem on Oct 11, 2009 19:29:32 GMT -5
Thanks for the offer blackoak, I don't have a pic of the whole saw. It is just a plain XL(UT#10695) with a the plastic case (not magnesium). The saw does have the primer bulb in the case. If you have one I would appreciate it. Part # A-01232 for the case.
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Post by mikem on Oct 12, 2009 15:43:58 GMT -5
Further to my previous posts, I contacted a rep at the company who produces the 2 part epoxy I had planned to use on the plastic XL case. He stated the epoxy fix would probably NOT last on a long term basis. The correct epoxy to use would be one specifically for plastics that would chemically bond with the base material..in this case plastic. I believe Urbanchainsawer & Bigreds comments about "replace rather than fix" has merit in this case. I have checked flea-bay and replacement cases do exist for $10 + shipping.
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Post by blackoak on Oct 13, 2009 22:31:39 GMT -5
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Post by mikem on Oct 14, 2009 6:45:53 GMT -5
Blackoak...No, I need the case for an XL(not a Super 2), UT # 10695. The case needs to accomodate a primer bulb. Found one yesterday on Flea-Bay for $10. Thank you for looking though
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