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Post by ibmike on Feb 22, 2024 9:16:21 GMT -5
Missing part #12141 lever oil adjuster and the hex head screw 8-32 3/8" long, part # 88026, the screw i can get at a hardware store, but the adjuster i don't know
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Post by footstep on Feb 22, 2024 10:34:15 GMT -5
Only the 350 & early 360 had the adjustable oiler, post a pic of the front of your oiler & you can tell if its adjustable or not, if it has a large nub on the front its adjustable small nub then standard 360, you can also pull the oiler & if it has 2 o rings its non adjustable 3 rings is adjustable. I'll go out to the garage in a min & take pic
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Post by footstep on Feb 22, 2024 10:39:14 GMT -5
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Post by blythkd on Feb 22, 2024 12:26:18 GMT -5
Another dead giveaway is the screw that goes in from the side of the saw that retains the oiler in the case. The non-adjustable oiler, which most saws have, is held in by a short 8-32 screw with a 1/4" head and captive belleville washer. It screws up against the side of the oiler like a set screw to lock it in. The washer head tightens up against the case at roughly the same time as the screw hits the oiler.
The adjustable oiler has a follower screw that goes into a slot in the oiler and allows the oiler to turn for adjustment. The head on this special follower screw is something like 1/2", give or take, and is a thin head without any washer. It tightens up against the side of the drivecase.
This screw is just ahead of the crankshaft and above the centerline of the crankshaft, inline with the oiler.
For anyone removing one of the follower screws on an adjustable oiler saw, be very careful replacing it. If it's not perfectly lined up, you can jam the follower screw together where it won't work anymore. Need to get the oiler lined up and screw the follower in completely by hand, then tighten. If you're concerned that the follower has been compressed and affecting your oiler, the specified dimension is called out in the 360 IPL. The dimension is .553 - .557 from the tip of the follower pin to the bottom of the hex head (surface that contact the drivecase).
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Post by ibmike on Feb 23, 2024 6:39:01 GMT -5
Thanks Footstep and Brent, mine looks like your pic of the one on the saw Footstep, i'll post a picture later, have to work today Mike
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Post by ibmike on Feb 24, 2024 8:47:25 GMT -5
Here is my oil pump, non adjustable ?
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Post by blythkd on Feb 24, 2024 9:05:48 GMT -5
Yep, non-adjustable.
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Post by ibmike on Feb 24, 2024 9:38:25 GMT -5
Good, thats 1 part i don't have to buy. Thanks Brent
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Post by blythkd on Feb 24, 2024 10:38:51 GMT -5
While you have it apart, look over that 90 degree plastic elbow above the oiler. Make sure you don't see a crack down the side of the base. They've been known to crack and keep the oiler from priming.
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Post by ibmike on Feb 25, 2024 8:44:04 GMT -5
Thanks Brent, the little things I don't think of
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Post by tomjv on Mar 7, 2024 14:12:07 GMT -5
What has to come apart to get at that oiler? Mine stopped pumping. Thanks 1980s 360
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Post by blythkd on Mar 7, 2024 15:27:26 GMT -5
Have you pulled the pickup line out of the oil tank and checked it and the strainer?
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Post by ibmike on Mar 8, 2024 8:42:56 GMT -5
What has to come apart to get at that oiler? Mine stopped pumping. Thanks 1980s 360
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Post by footstep on Mar 8, 2024 10:26:48 GMT -5
What has to come apart to get at that oiler? Mine stopped pumping. Thanks 1980s 360 Pull the clutch cover off, just above the rear bar stud you'll see a retaining bolt, remove that & thread a screw into the front of the oiler & grab it with with vice grips or pliers & wiggle it out, if I remember the oiler uses a 10x32 fine pitch screw. Before you remove the oil pump check your oil line going from the tank under the handguard bracket to the oiler on the case, it may be cracked or worn out.
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