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Post by xl130 on Dec 4, 2023 15:10:28 GMT -5
I have a XL700 project saw on the go. I have it torn down and I’m assessing what needs to be cleaned and what needs to be replaced.
I see this model has a few different things than what I’m used to dealing with in the XL900 saws. The one that’s got me screwed over at the moment is the darn fuel tank. This saw has an inlet similar to a C series as opposed to the grommet that used on the XL900 saws.
Can this thing be screwed out of the tank or is it pressed in? I tried to heat the magnesium with a heat gun to help get it out but I had no luck! The dang thing snapped. I’m contemplating just drilling it out and fitting a grommets in like the 900’s.
Anyone have any experience on these??
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Post by edju1958 on Dec 4, 2023 15:42:41 GMT -5
Wow Trevor,I've never had a fuel fitting snap off on a C series saw,even the most beaten up saws that've been abused.I've just put a deep well socket on & it turned right out.I think the only other alternatives you may have left are to try using an E-Z out, replace the fuel tank,or as you said - drill it out & use a grommet.But the grommet idea has drawbacks.Once you get the fuel fitting out you'll see that it uses 2 different size fuel lines.It uses a smaller line inside the tank & then goes to a bigger size line that goes to the carb (if it's the same set up as the C series). Heat the loving hell out of it with the heat gun,then soak it in some sort of penetrating oil (I like using Deep Creep by the makers of Seafoam).Then I'd try using an E-Z out.
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Post by xl130 on Dec 4, 2023 15:52:54 GMT -5
It’s similar to a C series but looks like the inlet barb on a carburetor. There is not way to get a socket on it. I just drilled it out. Not exactly what I was hoping for but oh well!
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Post by 5terrysupersaws on Dec 4, 2023 17:54:46 GMT -5
The fitting is threaded, pipe-plug type threads. Galvanic corrosion has probably taken it's toll.
Although pricey ( 30$ CAD + duty ) a NOS elbow fitting is available if you want to go that route and haven't drilled past the threads yet.
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Post by xl130 on Dec 4, 2023 19:29:53 GMT -5
I drilled the center out. Pretty much the perfect size for a tygon hose. Seems to fit pretty tight. I’m thinking that I’m going to try and make this work as is. I can’t bring myself to pay a bunch of money for a part that’s not completely necessary. I like to use original parts as much as possible but sometimes you gotta compromise. I’ll try to use the inlet pipe on the xl900 saws so that the hose doesn’t pinch as it comes out of the tank.
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Post by jselden78 on Dec 4, 2023 22:36:28 GMT -5
I will look in the morning but I may have what you need for this to be fixed like original. I had an XL700 that came with some other parts saws I picked up several years ago. I sold a couple of things off of it but I think I still have the fuel tank. The tank did leak and well... I tried redcoat and that didn't work. I've used redcoat before and never had an issue but if I remember correctly, these tanks were not held together with screws but an epoxy instead. I guess over the years the epoxy weakend and allowed too much flex. The redcoat sealed the tank fine until about the second pull on the starter rope and I heard a crack and then fuel was running out on the shop floor.
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Post by xl130 on Dec 5, 2023 5:17:45 GMT -5
This tank is glued together as well. I was planning to seal it for good measure. Let me know if you happen to find that inlet. I’m not overly optimistic that I can even get the reactor this one out though to be honest. It’s really stuck!
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Post by blythkd on Dec 5, 2023 7:00:24 GMT -5
Is that fitting magnetic? If so and you still want it out, I'd try to weld a nut to it. Heat from the weld typically gets things like this loose.
If you do decide to try the weld approach, of course it would be a good idea to rid the tank of any fuel fumes first, if there are any.
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Post by xl130 on Dec 7, 2023 11:24:36 GMT -5
I’m battling with a pretty extreme case of varnish in the tank. I’ve had a few saws in the past that were troublesome but this one takes the win. I’ll continue fighting this battle then go back to that fuel inlet fitting. Started with boiling water and soap. Now going with acetone soakings and a brush.
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Post by edju1958 on Dec 7, 2023 11:57:32 GMT -5
Is it a hardened varnish,or a sticky varnish?If a hardened varnish,vinegar works quite well.If it's a sticky residue varnish,then you're on the right track with acetone.
I had a tank that came off a McCulloch saw that I had a helluva time with.I ended up giving it to a friend of mine who works in a small engine shop & he used a sandblaster with a wand that was able to get into the tank.That worked very well.
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Post by blythkd on Dec 7, 2023 12:56:08 GMT -5
Berryman B12. Just dont get it on your paint and leave it there very long.
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Post by xl130 on Dec 8, 2023 22:45:46 GMT -5
Progress report: The tank was starting to clean up but still had chunks of varnish and fuel hose coating the inside. I had the brilliant idea to pour boiling water from a kettle in to try and break loose some more stubborn material. I have done this numerous times on tanks that are held together with screw…..
I heard a cracking noise! The apoxy broke in one spot. Tank started to leak! The 700 rebuild may be a parts saw now!
Three things I’ve learned so far:
#1 Don’t buy another Homelite with a glued tank! #2 Don’t pour boiling water into a tank that’s glued together( Seems pretty obvious at this point) #3 Avoid trying to rebuild a saw that has a fuel tank lined with varnished fuel!
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Post by edju1958 on Dec 8, 2023 23:08:04 GMT -5
We all learn from our mistakes Trevor.What about getting a good used tank?The other option may be to keep cleaning the tank you have and get the varnish all out,then try Red Koting the tank,it may take several attempts to seal it.
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Post by xl130 on Dec 8, 2023 23:29:29 GMT -5
I’ll probably work away at this case a bit more. I have nothing to lose on it at this point. I do have some tank sealant so if I can get the crud out then I’ll attempt to re-seal. That will be more difficult now that the tank won’t hold liquid.
Who knows. I may find a decent case with screws and leave this glued design behind as it should be.
“Good things come to those that wait”. “Patience is a virtue “ 😉
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Post by edju1958 on Dec 8, 2023 23:42:06 GMT -5
Yeah,I hate those sayings,Lol.Another thought I had was to seal it where it's leaking,then Red Kote it after you get it cleaned out.I can check with my fellow parts guy Buford to see if he's got a tank for you.
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Post by blythkd on Dec 9, 2023 9:36:41 GMT -5
I agree with Ed. If the tank is still solid, just leaking now, I'd get it cleaned up then use the tank sealer. If you get it cleaned up good prior to sealing, it'll probably be fine.
Unfortunately, we're getting to the point where tank sealer is about the only option now many times.
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Post by edju1958 on Dec 9, 2023 10:43:01 GMT -5
After looking at the IPL,I see that the tank is part of the crankcase assembly,same as the XL-1xx series.A very poor design IMO.Your options are to see if you can repair what you have,or look for a donor saw with a good tank.I called Mr.Parrish to see if he had anything,but he won't be available till Mon.I don't know how much you're willing to put into the saw.
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Post by jselden78 on Dec 9, 2023 17:24:24 GMT -5
I apologize for my delay. I did find the XL700 tank I had. The fitting was already out of it though. I did some digging and found a fitting I think may have come out of it and the fittings is good. It is a 90 degree on the outside of the tank. I will post a picture later but I got a soccer game to get to this evening. When I get back I will post a picture.
JB weld makes a number of fuel resistant epoxies. I had considered once trying to seperate this tank and clean it up good and re-glue it. I think the trick would be getting it apart without damaging it. Loctite also makes a number of fuel resistant epoxies. The tank I have leaks also. I tried redkote and it didn't hold with the compression. About the 3rd pull on the starter rope I heard a crack and then fuel was running out on my shop table. You are welcome to either or both of these parts. the crank is still in the fuel tank crankase assembly. I have a new piston for it as well but I believe it to be an aftermarket and if it is LRB I would trust it.
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Post by blythkd on Dec 9, 2023 17:56:34 GMT -5
I had considered once trying to seperate this tank and clean it up good and re-glue it. I think the trick would be getting it apart without damaging it. Yep, I've seen a few bonded tanks ruined when folks were determined to get them apart. Probably need to come up with a way to soften the epoxy.
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Post by edju1958 on Dec 9, 2023 18:13:40 GMT -5
I think Trevor already found a way with boiling water.Now if he could put it in a turkey deep fryer (without the oil of course) he may be able to boil it apart.Epoxies have come a long way since Homelite used 'em back in the late 60's.The boiling action may also take care of the varnish issue as well.Just throwing ideas out there.
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