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Post by topgut on Aug 8, 2009 19:58:35 GMT -5
My 750 had a broken bottom handle awhile back. I kept it and recently got it welded. So it is possible to get them welded.
Don't throw them out. I can get them fixed......J
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Post by mikem on Aug 10, 2009 13:35:50 GMT -5
I weld a little but I am not good enough to do that alloy. I have seen braze jobs on some old saws that held up for a long time.
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Post by RandyMac on Aug 10, 2009 17:22:44 GMT -5
Welding can be good, the part will break again, at the weld of course. I was lucky enough to find two excellent welders, good men, a six pack or some firewood paid the bill.
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Post by billg on Aug 11, 2009 2:21:45 GMT -5
A good old welder is da'' hard to find. Everyone wants to use a darn MIG. Anyone still know how to braze?  I sure can not do it but my hats is off to those who can. As for the lower handles I assume they are TIG welded or Heli-Arc for old school guys like me |
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Post by RandyMac on Aug 11, 2009 13:22:05 GMT -5
You are correct Bill, the easy way isn't always the best.
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Post by MCS on Aug 11, 2009 13:38:52 GMT -5
A good old welder is da'' hard to find. Everyone wants to use a darn MIG. Anyone still know how to braze? I sure can not do it but my hats is off to those who can. As for the lower handles I assume they are TIG welded or Heli-Arc for old school guys like me I got lots of practice brazing EMT in 10th grade shop. I built a motor scooter that even held up after I got smacked by a car, it was a Corvair that hit me so maybe that's why  I don't think you can braze aluminum but my neighbor at the lake said he has a kit that will "weld" aluminum using MAPP gas. I'm going to try and find something like that. Anyone have any experience along this line? |
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Post by mikem on Aug 11, 2009 13:54:49 GMT -5
My grandfather brazed everything(especially cast iron) when he owned an implement repair facility from the 30s through the 60s. He said the secret was to "get it hot enough, but not too hot". Not sure how hot "enough" and "too hot" is...but it made perfect sense to him...and things stuck !! It is a dying art.
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Post by MCS on Aug 11, 2009 21:09:21 GMT -5
My grandfather brazed everything(especially cast iron) when he owned an implement repair facility from the 30s through the 60s. He said the secret was to "get it hot enough, but not too hot". Not sure how hot "enough" and "too hot" is...but it made perfect sense to him...and things stuck !! It is a dying art. His secret is correct. The trick is getting the base metal hot enough so the brazing rod will flow without having to be melted by the torch. It is the same principle used when soldering copper pipes or electrical connections. Brazing and silver soldering is classified as hard solder where plumbing and electrical work is classified as soft soldering. The base metal is not melted. I picked up some aluminum "welding rods" and a MAPP torch today. The rods melt at 700 deg. and it says on the package that they can be used to repair outboard motors. Well, chainsaw are kind of like outboard motors |
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Post by billg on Aug 12, 2009 2:10:32 GMT -5
A good old welder is da'' hard to find. Everyone wants to use a darn MIG. Anyone still know how to braze? I sure can not do it but my hats is off to those who can. As for the lower handles I assume they are TIG welded or Heli-Arc for old school guys like me .................I don't think you can braze aluminum............................. I did a poor job of making a post. Well Brazing and TIG welding require a very closely related skill set. If a guy/gal can braze he/she should be able to TIG Bill |
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Post by polardoo on Aug 12, 2009 6:34:02 GMT -5
I consider myself proficient at welding. Usually by the end of the job things start to look pretty good. I tried welding a c5 side cover, sand cast part. I used magnesium rod and my tig. It wernt pretty. At all. No. Uhn, uhn.  |
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Post by mikevan on Aug 13, 2009 16:40:05 GMT -5
My worst brazing job ever was a hydraulic tank on a splitter that was too small. I thought "I'll cut the top off the sheet metal tank, braze in an extension. What a goat ?*#* that turned out to be. I'd have a seam that leaked & fixed it. Another would start. The thin metal warps quite easilly too. I finally bashed the sh*t out of it, threw it in the scrap bin, and used an old propane tank. A few welders told me the steel was probably so contaminated from 20 years of oil, that it was doomed to fail from the start. It failed allright. I hope it got recycled into bycicle seat, thats where it belonged. up someones you know what. |
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Post by mikem on Aug 13, 2009 18:39:54 GMT -5
I can see where this thread is going...the same place that "painting" threads go...."I wish we had someone who knew how to paint". Now we can hope for a newbie that knows how to weld magnesium/aluminum alloy.....sigh !
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Post by mikem on Aug 13, 2009 18:43:39 GMT -5
My grandfather brazed everything(especially cast iron) when he owned an implement repair facility from the 30s through the 60s. He said the secret was to "get it hot enough, but not too hot". Not sure how hot "enough" and "too hot" is...but it made perfect sense to him...and things stuck !! It is a dying art. His secret is correct. The trick is getting the base metal hot enough so the brazing rod will flow without having to be melted by the torch. It is the same principle used when soldering copper pipes or electrical connections. Brazing and silver soldering is classified as hard solder where plumbing and electrical work is classified as soft soldering. The base metal is not melted. I picked up some aluminum "welding rods" and a MAPP torch today. The rods melt at 700 deg. and it says on the package that they can be used to repair outboard motors. Well, chainsaw are kind of like outboard motors Craig...I am keenly interested if the mapp gas trick works as I have a 120 Evinrude with a small crack in the lower unit that could use some help. |
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