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Post by bdm53ent on Jan 13, 2023 18:09:59 GMT -5
Not sure what I screwed up but this is not the way I wanted to start my weekend. C-7 I just did a full restoration on, I assume I didnt torque the flywheel nut. Guess I will be pulling it back apart. Grrrrrr. Attachments:
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Post by edju1958 on Jan 13, 2023 18:36:52 GMT -5
Since the saw is well over 50 yrs.old,it could've been weak,especially if the timing was off by incorrect points gap.A new 50 cent Woodruff key from the hardware store should solve the problem.
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Post by bdm53ent on Jan 13, 2023 20:34:57 GMT -5
Since the saw is well over 50 yrs.old,it could've been weak,especially if the timing was off by incorrect points gap.A new 50 cent Woodruff key from the hardware store should solve the problem. I set the points at .015 and it was a NOS keyway. Key fit snug. I went and looked closer, you can tell the keyway only rolled because of the flywheel backing off. Your right about timing, it get hot quick. New keyway and flywheel and roll the dice again. |
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Post by edju1958 on Jan 13, 2023 20:56:44 GMT -5
Just a couple thousandths of retarding the timing will cause it to run hot.It'll also cause the saw to "bite" when trying to start it causing it to yank the grip right out of your hand.The points can be set correctly,but that little play in the keyway can make a big difference. I just had a friend of mine replace a crankshaft on a SXL-925 where the flywheel was shot & the crankshaft had a wallowed out keyway.The saw runs great now.
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Post by undee70ss on Jan 13, 2023 23:55:41 GMT -5
Just a couple thousandths of retarding the timing will cause it to run hot.It'll also cause the saw to "bite" when trying to start it causing it to yank the grip right out of your hand.The points can be set correctly,but that little play in the keyway can make a big difference.
Don't you mean advanced timing will cause the saw to bite??? |
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Post by bobby167 on Jan 14, 2023 9:39:17 GMT -5
You might want to try this.Use some valve grinding compound. Apply it to the shaft on the engine. Install the rotor / flywheel, without the key. Turn the rotor / flywheel right & left a couple times. Do this 2 or 3 times, applying new compound each time.I have used this method & have had good results. What happens is the flywheel could work loose, making the tapered shaft / flywheel not gripping tight.The key only centers flywheel to shaft, for correct timing. The taper is what holds it tight.Make sure you clean all compound / oils / grease from shaft & flywheel.Replace flywheel & tighten nut to shaft.As other members have said, there could be other issues,but I have found that this method is worth a try and usually fixes the problem.
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Post by bdm53ent on Jan 14, 2023 10:56:14 GMT -5
You might want to try this.Use some valve grinding compound. Apply it to the shaft on the engine. Install the rotor / flywheel, without the key. Turn the rotor / flywheel right & left a couple times. Do this 2 or 3 times, applying new compound each time.I have used this method & have had good results. What happens is the flywheel could work loose, making the tapered shaft / flywheel not gripping tight.The key only centers flywheel to shaft, for correct timing. The taper is what holds it tight.Make sure you clean all compound / oils / grease from shaft & flywheel.Replace flywheel & tighten nut to shaft.As other members have said, there could be other issues,but I have found that this method is worth a try and usually fixes the problem. Just did the heads on my truck so Ive got Lapping compound, good idea. At this point im not cracking the case. I had to eliminate in my mind, was the crank off and didnt allow the flywheel to mount correctly. Nope, everything measured out correctly so thats good news. |
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