Super2 Won't Oil

[edju1958]

I put a lot of time into this Super2.I put a new throttle assembly in,cleaned the carb,put in a new fuel line & filter,& put in a new oil line with a new tube & duck bill.After all of that I found it was missing the bar & chain adjuster.I ended up "borrowing" that from another saw.The saw fired up on the 7th pull & I thought "how lucky".I wasn't so lucky though as the saw will not oil.I know for certain that the lines aren't crossed,I've replaced enough oil lines to know.I had the saw revved at WOT for at least a minute & there was no oil on the driveway beneath the saw if there was a broken line that goes to the bar pad.This is a points saw,UT10520A.Does it have a piston pump?Or is there something else I'm missing?Also,the oil pick up is clear.

[blythkd]

There's a diaphragm actuated plunger pump behind the clutch. If you remove the sprocket and clutch, then remove 3 screws from the rectangular cover, you can remove the diaphragm/plunger for inspection. I bet the diaphragm is stiff or maybe even failed.

[edju1958]

Dec 20, 2022 21:46:40 GMT -5 blythkd said:

There's a diaphragm actuated plunger pump behind the clutch. If you remove the sprocket and clutch, then remove 3 screws from the rectangular cover, you can remove the diaphragm/plunger for inspection. I bet the diaphragm is stiff or maybe even failed.
When I fired up the saw it smoked quite a bit,then it seemed to clear up.If this takes the same plunger as the 150 they're NLA (as far as I know).Would you know the part # Brent?Or tell me which IPL I should use?

[blythkd]

It's the 12356 plunger/diaphragm, not the same as the 150 part. I think the 12356 is getting scarce too though.

If you do a search you'll probably see A-12356-B or A-12356-C, either one will work although if you find a B suffix part, it'll be old enough to vote.

[edju1958]

Dec 20, 2022 22:20:47 GMT -5 blythkd said:

It's the 12356 plunger/diaphragm, not the same as the 150 part. I think the 12356 is getting scarce too though.

If you do a search you'll probably see A-12356-B or A-12356-C, either one will work although if you find a B suffix part, it'll be old enough to vote.

I found on the 1st Super2 IPL the plunger has a part # A 69242.Is there a difference?

[blythkd]

Hmmm, must be a really old number. I don't recall it but I used many 12356 plunger/diaphragms, enough that I remembered the number. It was pretty universal for years, used on all the small XL's, Super 2's, etc. It was so universal, it was even used on 450's and 550's.

[edju1958]

I searched everywhere & they're NLA here in the U.S.They're available in England for 48 pounds,whatever that converts to in dollars.Even if they were available here they're too expensive.I can't see spending $30+.Unless I find one at a reasonable price I might as well junk the saw.

[undee70ss]

Dec 21, 2022 14:12:36 GMT -5 edju1958 said:

I searched everywhere & they're NLA here in the U.S.They're available in England for 48 pounds,whatever that converts to in dollars.Even if they were available here they're too expensive.I can't see spending $30+.Unless I find one at a reasonable price I might as well junk the saw.

You can just convert it to pressure system, which is the best option considering the cost of what sellers want for those diaphragms.

[edju1958]

Well now,looky at what I found in another Super2 engine.It's a little stiff,so I'll soak it in some brake fluid & see if it softens up.

thumbnail by edju1958, on Flickr

[blythkd]

I hope it works. I've considered changing some of these saws over to the pressure tank system and figured someday that will be the only fix. I keep wondering if someone could come up with a way to salvage the plunger and spring pocket then assemble to a new diaphragm cut from an appropriate reinforced rubber sheet stock.

Might have to work on that project when I retire again.

[edju1958]

Is there a way to switch it overto a pressurized tank?Thaty's what I thought it was to begin with.

Also,I have a Little Red & a 200 Classic that has the "dial-o-matic oiler on the right side above the bar.I've read that these can be converted too.

[blythkd]

I think to switch over to a pressure tank system, you just need to pull a longer output line into the tank and run it directly to the bar pad fitting. Then if it oils too much, you put a restrictor fitting in the top of the pickup strainer in the tank. And of course the tank cap needs to seal up pretty well. I think that's about it.

The downside is, if you use one in warm weather, you definitely need the restrictor fitting or it will pour oil out and sling it everywhere. Then if you want to use it in cold weather and use a normal weight bar oil, you need the restrictor removed to get enough flow.

[undee70ss]

Dec 21, 2022 22:36:49 GMT -5 blythkd said:

I think to switch over to a pressure tank system, you just need to pull a longer output line into the tank and run it directly to the bar pad fitting. Then if it oils too much, you put a restrictor fitting in the top of the pickup strainer in the tank. And of course the tank cap needs to seal up pretty well. I think that's about it.

The downside is, if you use one in warm weather, you definitely need the restrictor fitting or it will pour oil out and sling it everywhere. Then if you want to use it in cold weather and use a normal weight bar oil, you need the restrictor removed to get enough flow.

Correct, The downside is the pressure system only tends to over oil the bar, and must loosen oil cap every time the saw is shut off. 

[blythkd]

Very good point. If you forget to loosen the cap when you shut the saw off, it will continue to "pump" oil. Makes a big mess on a warm day.

[edju1958]

I was going to mention about "burping" the oil tank.Remington had a similar pressurized oiling system & if the pressure wasn't released it'd continue to oil after the saw was shut off.