I Dug Out Two More Super2s Today

[edju1958]

While looking for a saw that I could steal a carb from for a Super2 I'm working on,I dug out 2 more Super2s.One is a points saw,the other is electronic.I checked the points saw for spark first & it had good spark.I then checked the electronic saw & it didn't have spark.I swapped the spark plug out of the points saw into the electronic saw & then it had good spark too.The catch on these 2 saws is that the entire throttle assembly is missing on both.They'll both use the same throttle assemblies.One was made in the U.S.& the other was made in Canada.The UT for the U.S.made saw is 10520A,the other has a lot # G6225.Maybe the latter was made in the U.S.too?Which IPL should I use for ordering parts?

[blythkd]

Assuming the points model saw is a metal housing, I'd use IPL 24983. If the one with electronic ignition is the later plastic housing model, IPL 17868 should work.

There can be some differences in throttle and cover parts. Those 2 IPL's show a different throttle rod, different length I suspect. The handle covers can be different. The old cover just snaps in, the newer one is held down at the back end with a screw. Do you see those differences on the 2 saws you mentioned?

[edju1958]

Both saws have the snap in place handle covers,no screw to hold them down.

[blythkd]

Sounds like they're both the older metal case style, just have one that has the electronic ignition

[edju1958]

I can't say for sure if they're metal or plastic.I'll check them out in a bit.

Edit:they're both metal case saws.Both will use the same throttle assemblies & Leon has them.I refuse to pay $30.00 for a handle cover though.

[edju1958]

I tore one of the Super2s apart today after putting the handle cover on.I'd forgotten that I bought the throttle assemblies back in early summer.This saw is electronic & IIRC it fired on a prime last summer.The carb is another story,it's a Walbro HDC57 & it held pressure till I took the metering side cover off.It has dirt & sawdust on top of the circuit plate & there's some surface rust there too.I'll put it through the US cleaner & then put a rebuild kit in it & hope for the best.I've gotta hunt up a couple of caps for the fuel & oil tanks too.It seems to have good compression,it must have if it fired on a prime.

[edju1958]

I rebuilt the carb for the first Super2 today & as usual it won't hold any pressure.

I pulled the 2nd Super2 out of it's case todasy to replace the oil lines & the fuel line broke into 3 pieces,go figure.While pulling the oil line off,the stent that plugs into the engine came out.I managed to push it back in & hope it stays there.I had a helluva time getting the handle cover on.I ended up putting a different handle cover on (same part #,but different handle cover) & it snapped right into place.The saw fired right up,but I'll need to pull the carb off & clean it because the fuel filter was broken off of the fuel line.Saw #2 is the points saw.

    Anyone have any idea as to what to use in place of the little tube that goes into the oil tank where the duck bill goes on,part # 69659B?

[edju1958]

Today I decided to put the saw with the electronic ignition back together.I put the carb on,put the fuel & oil tanks on with new lines,filter,& duck bills.I slid the engine into it's case & checked for spark.This saw turned out to be the Super2 from hell.No spark,OK I'll go get one of the new modules I just got.It was completely dead.I tried everything with it - disconnected the switch,took the plug boot off & had a bare spring connected to the plug.Still no spark.I had one more module left & I put that on,still no spark.I ended up taking the new plug boot & spring off & put the old spring & boot on & finally it had spark.The new spring was so tight that a plug wouldn't fit in it,plus the spring wouldn't go into the boot properly.I'll see if it fires up & oils tomorrow.PITA saw.

[charliec]

Ed,

Regarding your question above (i.e., Dec 19, "little tube that the duck bill goes on inside the oil tank , part # 69659B"). Unfortunately you just missed a sale on evilbay where the seller had 19 units going for $2.99 ea. $1.95 shipping. The last one sold two days ago.

However, you may not need one..... Leon did a video a while back on a XL family saw and his advise was "golden". Bottom-line, nine-times-out-of-ten, the original little brass/bronze dew-hickey is stuck at the bottom of the plastic oil tank surrounded by crusty oil and/or rubber residue from the duck bill. Pour a little gas or acetone in the tank and lightly shake it... couple minutes later, empty it out into a paper coffee filter or something similar because that little thing has a tendency to go come out with a gush of gas and the next thing you know.... it is lost forever depending on where you empty the tank (no comment).

Charlie

[charliec]

Oops, I forget to say.... add a couple small hex head nuts with the solvent (e.g., gas) prior to lightly shaking the tank to help loosen the gunk and connector. Remember... lightly shake because of the oil line holes in the tank near the top that tend to spew the liquid/solvent if you shake to rigorously.... ha!

[edju1958]

I've done that trick & have also used extremely hot tap water to loosen up the tube & duck bill.I've found a few of 'em,but also never found a few as well.

[edju1958]

Saw #2 is kicking me where the sun don't shine.I fueled up the saw & it fired up,but ran at a high idle & when I tried adjusting the carb it ran very rich & then stalled out.I had the lo needle turned in to 1/2 turn out from seating & it made no difference,it still ran way too rich.The carb has been rebuilt to no avail.The metering lever is set where it should be.I'll try another carb when I get one back.Also,the chain oiler isn't oiling.I'm chucking this saw aside for now,too much wrong with it.