Need Help...No spark on Homelite XL with points.

[rmlee61]

I've recently picked up a Homelite XL UT-105074. On first exam there is no spark. It is a points saw. I've combed this site and youtube and picked up tips on bringing it back to life.

So far I have tested the ignition coil with an ohm meter; seems to be in range on primary and secondary coil. (.5-1 ohm on the primary and 7-8k ohm on the secondary. I could be wrong on these numbers being in range.)


I have pulled the points and cleaned them, tested for continuity and reset the gap. While I had them out I tested the condenser and it checked out on the multimeter (I shorted out the condenser, then checked the continuity on the casing and the lead. Resistance rose then meter showed 0L, reversed the leads and it did the same. *According to google this is how it said to test condensers.)

I also tested to make sure there wasn't a break in the spark plug lead/boot. Also replaced the spark plug with a new one (tested the new one, the old one, and even one I had laying around; still no spark.)

I've read and heard the ignition coils are notorious for going bad. I even baked it a 200 for a few hours (2-3). Saw appeared to have been rained on when I bought it from the guy. When I reinstalled I set the gap with the flywheel with a business card.

All that said, am I missing something? Is there something else I should check? I've tinkered on engines before and at this point usually have some sort of idea what's going on. Should I just start replacing points, condenser, ignition module, etc to rule them out? Any help is appreciated!

[blythkd]

The coils on those saws typically haven't been too bad about failing. Probably the worst problem I recall seeing on those, other than just replacing the points and condenser, was the wire that goes from the points to the coil sometimes would rub the flywheel and ground out. The switch wire could be rubbing the case on a magnesium case saw and ground out. Switch could be bad, although fairly rare.

[bobby167]

Did you check the ignition switch. Unhook wire to switch & see if you have spark.Could be switch or wire shorted out. As the previous post said.

[edju1958]

The ignition switches are also notorious for going bad.Try disconnecting the switch,then check for spark again. & make sure it doesn't ground out on the coil (try wrapping the end with electrical tape).The points coils are pretty hardy,but the electronic coils arer prone to failure.

[rmlee61]

I did unhook the kill switch but failed to mention in original post. I’ll try some of the other suggestions about the wiring and try them. I did find an original coil and points set on eBay and ordered those. Lister said the saw they came off of had spark when removed. We’ll see.

[bobby167]

One other thing that i have run into is where the plug boot mounts on the wire, the spark plug coil, that goes into the wire,could lose connection from twisting to replace the spark plug. If you move it from side to side, while connected to a multi-meter,see if it loses reading on meter. Very rare, but have found it to happen.If you need a repair manual, there is one posted on this site under manuals.

[rmlee61]

I had ordered one of the cheap 94711 modules off Amazon the other day and it just came in the mail. I threw it on just to see what would happen, and I had spark. I reassembled and got it to fire off with a shot of carb cleaner in the breather. Now I'm not sure if this is a permanent fix. The new module pretty much bypassed the point system. Is there anything I need to know that could mess something up using the 94711 module without the points? Will it affect timing or anything like that? If anything I have the OEM module with a set of points coming in the next few days off eBay. I'm thinking too it may need a carb rebuild. What's the best place to get a rebuild kit that's as close to OEM for a Walbro HDC-48A? Date stamped on carb is 5/78.

[bobby167]

Glad to see you got it started. On the carb kit. DO NOT get china made replacement kits. The nub on the diaphragm is too high. I think a HDC K10 or HDC D10 kit will work. K10 is a major repair kit.If you cannot find one, send me a pm. Forgot to add OEM Homelite number is A 94053

[rmlee61]

Thanks for the info bobby. I'll look into a kit and if I run into problems I'll get up with you.

[bobby167]

Module you installed will work, but if it gets hot it could fail. Better to use points. Never had much luck checking condenser with multimeter. I have a tester for condensers & coils. Have tested new condensers that were bad. You're on the right track. Keep members posted on your progress. Lots of great members here to help.

[rmlee61]

Yea I’m worried eventually it will fail for how cheap it was and most likely made in china. I’m going to wait for the OEM module with a set of points to get here and try it to see it’ll give me spark. In the meantime I’ll search for a carb kit and try to get it tuned. Can’t wait to get the bar back on and see if cut . I’ll try and post some pics of the progress. I fully disassembled the saw and cleaned all parts and it really cleaned up nice. Seems like a cool little saw so far. 

[bobby167]

Modules will work, but if not located where they can get air to cool then they could fail. I know some people have gotten good use out of them. I would use them, but don't,if parts are not found.Yea,these are nice saws for trimming & small trees. As you know, it is very easy to work on.Plenty of used/ NOS parts out there for them.

[edju1958]

When you said "module" I thought you were referring to an electronic ignition module,not a chip.I've got a Super2 that was a points saw & I was thinking of putting an electronic ignition module on it along with a flywheel for it as well (if it'd fit).I've got both from a 190 that has a bad engine.It's almost winter & time for experimenting!

[onlyhomelites]

Guys this will not work...it is not a plug & play! You cannot put a later 94711 coil on a saw that is meant for points without some modifications. The flywheels have different keyway locations (timing) and you cannot simply put a later flywheel on due to the casting for the points housing. The saw will start, but when you try to rev it up it'll sound terrible and get extremely hot very quickly. The ONLY way to effectively make this retrofit work is to take the time to dremel the points box casting off the engine and use a matched flywheel.

[rmlee61]

Leon I trust what you’re saying. I received a module and points from another saw off eBay today. Threw it on, set it up, and the saw fired right up and ran with little adjustment on the carb. Not sure if the newer 94711 would have worked out. I have a rebuild kit on the way from your store and may rebuild if needed. Right now I may see if it will run without a rebuild. Don’t want to fix what ain’t broke. I need to watch your videos on the XL oiler and see if I can get it going. Not sure it’s pumping oil right now.

[onlyhomelites]

Glad to hear it's running! You went the right route with the alternate parts. The oiler can take a few minutes of run time to prime, especially when cold. One quick test is to turn the saw on it's side with it running and squirt a little oil onto the bar pad (bar removed of course) where the oil outlet is. When you rev the saw, you should see an air bubble form fairly quickly (usually multiple 1-2 per second).