Clutch for Homelite VI Super 2

[rgjoslin]

New to the Forum,  Looking for a tip on removing the clutch on my VI Super 2 saw.  Reverse threaded.   Really hard to grip (vice grips) on the broken clutch and get sufficient torque to ease it off.  Also welcome any tips on finding a replacement. The clutch on my saw has the numbers 69070 and 23 on the clutch face. I have a new sprocket/cover  that goes over the clutch.  The part I am needing to replace broke.   Photos attached.

Welcome any advice and suggestions

Best Regards

R Joslin
Middlesex Vermont

  

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[charliec]

The good and the not so good. While I commend your initiative and “old yankee” way of thinking (i.e., use the tools I have). This is not the proper way to remove any clutch. This type of clutch (i.e., “S” shape”) which is found on the Homelite XL series (e.g., XL, XL2, Super 2 , VI Super 2, etc.) of saws that were manufactured prior to around 1989/90 had this type/style of clutch. In the years after this date they went to a three-shoe clutch design which will fit this saw (remember this for my later comments about buying a replacement clutch).
The correct tool for removing this particular clutch is the 2-pin clutch removal tool (see link of a House of Homelite discussion below). As you can see in the comments, I posted a link to a cheap 2- Pin tool that can be purchased on Amazon if you like verses the $25 tool also mentioned in this discussion thread. There are other options as well, do a Google search on 2-Pin clutch tools. Yes, there will be individuals that will say something like “use two drill bits and a piece of wood to leverage the drill bits against themselves thus removing the clutch” ….. don’t do it! This is a great way to not only hurt yourself but damage the saw/parts. Once you purchase the correct tool and inserting the 2-Pin tool on the exposed crankshaft you will see how the pins go on opposing sides of the clutches center cross beam thus pinching/gripping it when force is applied. Note, the force is against the center section not the outer legs of the “S” shape which caused you to bust the legs with the vice grips (i.e. no-no). However, the tool by it self is not enough to remove the clutch. What do I mean by that statement? Well you need to limit/stop the crankshaft from continually turning or you will never get resistance against the turning of the 2 pin clutch removal tool needed to remove the clutch. The best way I have found is to use about two feet of cord/rope (use polyester cord not natural fiber as the natural fiber cord tends to loose pieces when used which could end up damaging your cylinder/piston). Push this cord/rope up inside the cylinder through the sparkplug hole (i.e., remove spark plug). Make sure the piston is on its upstroke and past the exhaust port opening before you place the cord in the cylinder. The last thing you want is to have the cord coming out the exhaust port when the cylinder is on its up stroke and pinch the cord causing damage to both the cylinder and piston. This process when done correctly will stop the piston and therefore the crankshaft from being able to make a full rotation. Thus, providing you the resistance to remove the clutch with the 2 pin tool and a wrench (see video link below of this process). Depending how long the clutch has been on there, it could take a lot more force to get it off than you would think. Make sure to spray it down with some type of penetrating oil (e.g., WD-40) at least a few hours if not the day before you try to take it off (i.e., this helps a lot). I know this may sound a little unusual and perhaps complicated but once you do it you will find it is a simple process…. Just take your time and remember, clockwise force to take it off!
Once you remove the old clutch putting on the new clutch is easy. Screw it on (counter clockwise) and rotate the crankshaft in the opposite direction until you meet resistance. A very important step….. make sure that the cord does not come out the exhaust port as you rotate the crankshaft and end up causing the damage mentioned above as the piston retreats and then comes back up in the cylinder. Then use the 2 pin tool to give it a snug fit. Many people will say this step is not necessary due to the fact that the clutch will self-tighten during normal operation but I always like to take this step as I like to be safe than sorry (these clutches can spin in excess of 10,000 rpm.. (“danger Will Robinson”… a reference to the old TV show Lost in Space). Remember, don’t crank on it when tightening the clutch, just make it snug. The saw’s normal rotation will take care of the rest.
With respect to a new/replacement clutch; you can do a search on ebay under part number (A-70351-A) if you want an “S” shape. If you want the earlier mentioned use part # A97921 (better clutch option in my opinion). Both of these clutches use centrifugal force (i.e. high speed spinning of the clutch) which forces the legs/shoes out causing them to make contact with the inside of the drum which results in the chain rotating/cutting. However, the “S” shape style only makes contact in two spots/patches while as the name implies… the 3-Shoe clutch makes contact in three places (i.e. more is better). In addition, the 3-shoe model has replaceable shoes (part # A7922-A) while the “S” shape does not. (i.e., it makes a great paper weight when damaged/used up).

Just my two cents worth.

Other member’s perspective/comments are encouraged especially if I have misstated or forgot anything. I like to read differing ideas/perspectives even when they are in shape contrast to mine.


Charlie

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Cylinder rope process video:

www.youtube.com/watch?v=iI-6t_p5qYA



2 Pin tool:


houseofhomelite.proboards.com/thread/11204/homelite-clutch-spanner

[charliec]

Ooops, my bad.


It should be "sharp contrast" not "shape contrast"... ha!

[rgjoslin]

Many Thanks Charlie for the detailed reply. I was aware of the rope trick but unaware of the caution ensuring you are on the upstroke. Actually the clutch broke while I was running it but I did notice that the S pinched when I hooked on with my vice grips. New old style clutch is on its way. I can see that I need that clutch tool so I will figure out the way ahead on that. Thanks Again for your advice. Using that saw to cut white pine firewood for my maple syrup operation up here in Vermont.
Best Regards,
R Joslin
Middlesex Vermont

[charliec]

One other thing... I noticed you are missing one of the three screws which holds your automatic oiler cover on (i.e. just below your clutch in the picture you posted). Do yourself a favor and go to you local hardware store and buy a 6-32 X 3/8" pan head screw ( i.e. specs for the missing screw).

Saw safe,
Charlie

[rgjoslin]

Thanks Again for the specs on the missing screw. I did notice that and have been looking through my odds and ends for a cut but now have the data. I will update you on progress.

[rgjoslin]

For a screw vice « cut »…

[charliec]

Do you have the IPL (Illustrated Parts list) for this saw? If not, go to the following address www.leonschainsawpartsandrepair.com/parts-diagrams.html and look up your saw's IPL and download it for free. This is Leon Crouch's business website (i.e. Leon is the owner/administrator of "House of Homelite" proboards).

[rgjoslin]

Thanks for the pointer to Leon’s website with the downloads. I have electronic versions of the parts list as well as the operator’s manual. Still have the original paper version of the operator’s manual. Neighbor has loaned me his clutch tool so hopefully I will have that broken clutch off tomorrow.

[rgjoslin]

Thanks for the pointer to Leon’s website with the downloads. I have electronic versions of the parts list as well as the operator’s manual. Still have the original paper version of the operator’s manual. Neighbor has loaned me his clutch tool so hopefully I will have that broken clutch off tomorrow.

[charliec]

Your welcome.... Best of luck with the repairs.

Charlie

[rgjoslin]

Hi,
This is Randy from Middlesex Vermont. After several months of dealing with other of life’s priorities I finally managed to remind the failed clutch and install a new one. The rope trick worked and I bought the tool on Amazon. With a couple of slight modifications it worked.
Charlie had pointed out I am missing a screw on the oiler cover working on that.
Attached a photo of what appears to be an aluminum shroud that was damaged when the original clutch failed. Can someone point out where that goes? The holes don’t seem to line up with any obvious pattern.

[rgjoslin]

Sorry, This is Randy again. For the life of me I can’t figure out how to attach a photo to the thread. I managed to do this in September when I started the thread.

[rgjoslin]

OK here are the photos.

First shows the installed replacement clutch. Again Thanks to charliec for his very detailed post about the importance of the clutch tool.

Second shows the "aluminum shroud" which was clearly damaged when the old clutch failed.  Trying to figure out where it goes and its importance? 

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[blythkd]

It shields sawdust out of the engine also forces most of the cooling airflow through the cylinder fins. It should be there. I'd get a new one if the original is not usable.

[rgjoslin]

Thanks for the reply. I do see a plate (a shield if you will) in Figure 3 of the illustrated parts manual for the . 

The plate/shield from my VI Super 2 shown in the photo I attached does not look exactly like the diagram in the parts list.  The diagram seems to show a special case for the VI Super 2SL (not my saw).

I can see how my plate/shield shown in my photos would lay on the saw body underneath the clutch. The small hole  does seem to line up with a "drilled out molded well" on the saw body near the fins.  Does this hole accept a pin or screw to hold the shield in place?  However, the two larger holes don't seem to line up with anything?? 

Is there a pin or screw needed?

Attached a couple more photos:

 

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[blythkd]

Pretty sure they're just held on by a metal screw or 2. I apologize but the VI angle throws me for a bit of a loop. I'm pretty familiar with straight Super 2's but not as much with the VI models.

[Deleted]

Held in place by two little screws that appear to be self tapping.  You will have to remove the clutch again to install the screw under the clutch.  

[rgjoslin]

Thanks. The plate that “emerged” after the clutch failure and disassembly is shown in the tread above. It only has one small hole for the self tapping screws. If there are to be 2 screws securing it and one underneath the clutch then apparently the plate was quite damaged when the clutch failed. Any idea what it should look like in its original form?

[rgjoslin]

I guess that was a dumb question. An enlargement of your photo answered my question. Apparently in my case when the clutch failed the plate was chewed up and rounded out and the second screw securing the plate underneath the clutch vanished. The post that accepts that screw was also ground down some. Yikes!