How The Heck Does One Hook The Throttle Linkage Back On XL?

[edju1958]

I'll say without a doubt that I must've screwed with this little XL for over 2 hrs.trying to get the throttle linkage back on.What's the trick or maybe some magic mumbo jumbo?I'd like to meet the mopron who designed this one.

[blythkd]

Engine has to be slid out of the case. Hook the end of the linkage with the tighter bend in the carb than start the engine in the case. When you get it slid in to the point the top end of the linkage will reach the throttle trigger, hook the other end (more open end) of the linkage into the trigger. Then you slide the engine on into the case and fasten everything back up.

[edju1958]

Thanks Brent,it looked to me like both ends of the throttle rod were the same.At least on other branded small saws where ya have to pull the engine from the case there arer clips to hold the rod in place.Much easier to work with.

[blythkd]

The linkage has probably been bent. One end should be bent around basically into a 180 degree horseshoe shape. The other end should be opened back up about 45 degrees from that full 180 bend. If they're both bent into a full 180 bend, it makes them a lot tougher to get reinstalled.

[edju1958]

They were both bent the same,I assumed it was factory.Anyway,after I read your instructions the thing practically fell together in less than a minute.Go figure.

       Now I can't get the saw to oil.And no,I didn't cross the lines.I put a fitting on the line coming from the carb & put a duck bill on it too.The other pick up line is going out to the bar pad.I put a new line on the outgoing line to the bar pad.The saw runs great after putting a new seal in it,it just won't oil.

[undee70ss]

Is the duckbill present in the oil tank?

[edju1958]

The duck bill is on the end of the oil line that goes into the tank from the carb.I looked the tank over very carefully & there's no hole in it anywhere for a duck bill to be pressed in like on the fuel tank.I took the duck bill fitting (part # 01327) out of a Super2 that had the same set up.

[okie]

Just couple hints:
FIRST: You say the oil lines are on correctly. Double check. I've put them on bassackerds knowing exactly how I should have installed them, so double check closely.
NEXT
I suspect you have the type XL that:
The gasket on the oil tank cap has to seal good so as to pressurize the oil tank.

Two type of caps used one is external threads on the tank and one is internal threads and the gas and oil caps are the same.
I first fill the oil tank completely full over the top of the duckbill start the saw and let it idle and see if the duckbill produces bubbles in the oil. The saw may start smoking because the instruction manual indicates to not fill oil over the top of the duckbill. The engine will sometime burn bar oil and smoke excessively until the oil levels drops somewhat.
If no bubbles it's not going to pressurize the tank. If it get bubbles out the end of the duckbill swap the cap with the gas tank cap but first turn the saw upside down and see if the gas tank cap leaks. If the cap gasket is bad it will leak fast when on the gas tank with the saw upside down.
I've used large rubber o-rings from a o ring kit on the caps LEAVING THE CORK GASKET IN PLACE so as to get a temporary seal for testing If you get bubbles and a good cap seal and still no oiling the issue is downstream from the tank.

[edju1958]

Thanks Okie,I'll give those tips a try tomorrow.

[edju1958]

I didn't do quite as you instructed.I filled the oil tank to the duck bill,but not over it.Then I fired up the saw & it had bar oil coming out the muffler & smoking like crazy.If I'm not mistaken,this would indicate that the lines are crossed,but I checked several times & they're not crossed.The line coming off the carb is going into the tank with a duck bill on the end of that line.The output line with the oil pick up on it is going to the bar pad.I'd have to say at this point that either the pick up is plugged,or the outlet to the bar pad is plugged causing the tank pressure to back feed into the carb when the tank is pressurized.Correct me if I'm wrong.

[okie]

I've run them duckbill in the oil tank type Homie saws with oil over the top of the duckbill and never seen really bad oil smoke out the muffler, especially no raw oil out the muffler.
I was under the impression that the duckbill backchecked excess oil flow backwards and also helped hold the tank to be pressurized.

Are you sure you have a good seal between the duckbill and the oil tank pulse line or is the duckbill itself ok?

Also just a thought:

I wonder if it would be possible to hook up a mityvac to the pulse line to the oil tank and apply a slight pressure to the oil tank, start the saw and see if it will do any oiling.

?

[edju1958]

I tinkered with the saw's oiling again & the pick up is not plugged.The line was full of oil,so I cleaned off the pick up & blew into it with my mouth hoping that the oil in the line would come out at the bar pad.I heard it gurgling somewhere,but it didn't come out at the bar pad.Something's definitely amuck here.I've got several other XLs & Super 2s that I can take apart & have a look at.

[edju1958]

I've come to the conclusion that ya can't make a silk purse out of a sow's ear.Not my XL anyway,so I don't really care.It pissed me off to begin with that my neighbor didn't come to me in the first place to buy a saw.As the old time parts supplier Bob Johnson told me today - it's bottom shelf whiskey you're dealin' with there.The pressurized oiling systems were the worst ones on the market,cheapest too,& the first ones to go bad too.

[undee70ss]

Does the pulse line have any oil in it , if it does either duckbill is bad or line has a crack in it.

[blythkd]

Which vintage XL is this? The old XL or the newer modern one? The old original XL with pressurized oiler was very reliable, it just leaked oil if you didn't loosen the cap when you shut it off. The newer XL with the flow adjustment knob was a joke. The best fix was to modify it to be just about like the old system, doing away with the flow control.

[edju1958]

It's not a metal case saw,it's plastic.I didn't see a flow control knob on it.I believe it's a Terry made unit.I can get a pic of it on here.

[blythkd]

Yeah I think all the pressurized tank saws were plastic case, if I'm not mistaken, older models and newer models.

I'm just confused by the comment of a line coming off the carb. I didn't recall that on the old models so I wondered if you had one of those new fangled models that I'm not as familiar with. Maybe it was the 180's, 192's and all those styles that had the flow control valve. I lost track of things shortly after those came out.

Maybe I just don't recall how the pressurized tank model is plumbed. I may have to go take one apart to freshen up this old memory.

[edju1958]

I contacted Leon about this situation & this is what he had to say:"It sounds like the oil lines are hooked up properly. The carburetor must have the original gasket with about 6 holes around the perimeter in order for the pump port to receive the engine pulses. I'm not sure why it would be putting out that much smoke unless there is evaporated fuel residue in the crankcase that's burning off"

There's no way it's burning off evaporated fuel.The saw ran fine last fall.It started it's BS after I replaced one of the oil lines.If I have to pull this little biotch apart again I'll end up taking a sledge hammer to it.

[okie]

It should not suck LOTs OF OIL backwards into the pulse line and cause huge amounts of smoke.
The duckbill is suppose to back check and keep oil from going backwards into the pulse line. Also some of them Homies with the duckbill in the oil tank had a little sintered iron type pulse reducer in the pulse line (you could feel a hard place in the pulse line not far from the duckbill but I've operated the Super 2's with the pulse restrictor with no issues. and the duckbill and it coupler to the pulse line would come off, fall into the oil tank and the little coupler and sintered iron pulse reducer would get lost or get stuck in oil crud in the bottom of the oil tank. I've made the duckbill to pulse line coupler by using a short piece of the plastic insulation from a #12 or #10 electrical wire (romex or Thhn/Thwn) and remove the copper wire, just use a short length of the hard plastic insulation.

When You previously mentioned you was blowing on the oil line coming out of the tank and you heard gurgling but no oil coming out anywhere, what did you find???

Can you use a mityvac and apply about 1-2 psi to that line and see the results or use a mityvac and pressurize the duckbill hole in the oil tank, maybe???

I do not remember ever seeing one that the oil tank pulse line came off the carb, I'm thinking it was maybe from the crankcase area, but not sure.


Post up some pictures.

[edju1958]

The sintered piece was missing,probably stuck in the bottom of the oil tank.I took what looked to be a homemade one from another saw along with that duck bill & put it in the oil tank of the saw I'm working on.Maybe that duck bill it no good?It'd seem that it is because the tank seems to be pressurizing the way is should.Why use a MityVac when I can just blow on the pick up by mouth?(and I'll get the samer results as I did before)

       I went through my stash of XL,XL2,& Super2 saws & came up with about 4 that can be made into runners.They just need throttle parts (handle covers,triggers,& springs w/rods) & I'm working on that with Mr.Parrish.It seems he's the only one around who has parts & they're reasonably priced too.