|
Post by Brennan on Jun 25, 2022 12:57:35 GMT -5
Picked this up on a whim, c-91 convertible drive with the full wrap handle. Missing the carb cover, air cleaner, fuel cap, and the top corner of the fuel tank front is cracked. Not sure I’m going to keep this one yet as the piston is marginal (still makes decent compression) but I want to know what people have used to reseal the tank as I’ve heard it’s a bear to do. The offending corner
|
|
|
Post by w30bob on Jun 25, 2022 14:48:41 GMT -5
Hey Brennan,
Well.....this is one of those that depends on how long you want the repair to last and what you plan to do with the saw. The "right" answer is replace the tank cover. It's PN 58173 and used ones run from $20 to $30 on eBay (didn't check Leon's). There's even an NOS red one on there for $38 plus shipping. If you decide that’s too much to invest then you have to decide if you want to try to seal it internally or externally (or both). Most of the tank sealers are designed for pin hole leaks, not significant cracks, but maybe some have had luck with certain products. I never have. At least not long term.....and then you have a REAL friggin' mess on your hands. Sealing it from the outside is the same deal. Even if you bead blast that corner you won’t be able to expose the full depth of the crack to the sealant…..so essentially you’re just laying a sealer over a well cleaned surface…it won’t seep into the full depth of the crack. That means you need to build up some thickness to the sealant over the crack, which will look like shit (in my humble opinion). And if the sealant doesn’t stay flexible you know what will happen. As long as you don’t plan on reselling, I guess you could just repeat that process as required, but I find my time is worth more than the price of good used part……but that’s just me. My old man beat into my head to “fix it right the first time and be done with it”, so I tend to do that. If you put a gun to my head and said I had to use an external sealant.....I'd grab the HondaBond 4 after bead blasting the corner. I’m curious to see what others have to say.
Oh........just saw CUSTOMCHAINSAWPARTS has a whole used tank w/cover (so no disassembly) for $15. You have options!
;O) bob
|
|
|
Post by edju1958 on Jun 25, 2022 17:39:35 GMT -5
If you don't want to invest a lot of time & money,use Dirko HT,it's a great pliable silicone sealant that's fuel & oil resistant.I've taken several tank covers off & never really ran into any problems except for the tank on one of my C91s where the screw stripped out.I put it back in with Loctite & never had any issues with it leaking.
|
|
|
Post by Brennan on Jun 26, 2022 10:22:23 GMT -5
My original plan was to get the broken piece lined up and need blasted then put some shallow divets into it with a small drill and then use jb weld. I’ve had good luck with it in the past fixing fuel related chainsaw parts. I’m also a pretty competent tig welder so I may go down that route but I’m worried about warping it into a banana. Thanks for the dirko ht recommendation, I think I still have a partial tube of it from rebuilding an S brand saw. Guess j should have figured it was fuel safe since they use it on the crankcase and cylinder base.
|
|
|
Post by sparky on Jul 10, 2022 20:38:49 GMT -5
If you do tig weld it take a piece of heavy plate and drill and tap holes of the tank screw layout. Prep the area for welding and screw tank to plate. Weld or tack what you can.Remove from holding jig flip over and finish weld job.
|
|