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Post by nrose07 on Jul 8, 2009 23:52:37 GMT -5
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Post by billg on Jul 9, 2009 3:35:53 GMT -5
I will say that roller nose is a nice touch
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Post by mikevan on Jul 9, 2009 4:45:21 GMT -5
D Model: SUPER-XL -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- MANUFACTURED BY: HOMELITE CORPORATION PORT CHESTER, NEW YORK, U.S.A. SERIES OR ASSEMBLY NUMBER: 10045C YEAR INTRODUCED: YEAR DISCONTINUED: 1968 ENGINE DISPLACEMENT: 3.55 cu. in. (57.4 cc) NUMBER OF CYLINDERS: 1 CYLINDER BORE: 1.8125 in. PISTON STROKE: 1.375 in. CYLINDER TYPE: Aluminum with chrome plated bore INTAKE METHOD: Reed valves MANUFACTURER ADVERTISED H.P.: WEIGHT : 13 lbs. 14 oz. (5.96 kg) powerhead only OPERATOR CONFIGURATION: One Man operation HANDLEBAR SYSTEM: Rigid CHAIN BRAKE: none CLUTCH: Centrifugal DRIVE TYPE: Direct CONSTRUCTION: Die cast magnesium MAGNETO TYPE: Flywheel type CARBURETOR: Walbro SDC or Tillotson HS MAJOR REPAIR KIT: K10-SDC for Walbro RK23-HS for Tillotson MINOR REPAIR KIT: D10-SDC for Walbro AIR FILTER SYSTEM: Flocked wire screen STARTER TYPE: Homelite automatic rewind OIL PUMP: Automatic with manual override OPERATING RPM: 6,000 under load IGNITION TIMING: Position stator plate as far clockwise as possible to obtain 30 degrees BTDC BREAKER POINT SETTING: 0.015 in. FLYWHEEL/COIL AIR GAP: Position is fixed SPARK PLUG TYPE: Champion CJ6 SPARK PLUG GAP: 0.025 in. (0.63 mm) CRANKSHAFT MAIN BEARINGS: Caged needle roller FUEL TANK CAPACITY: 24.2 oz. (715 ml) FUEL OIL RATIO: 32:1 RECOMMENDED FUEL OCTANE: Regular MIX OIL SPECIFICATION: Homelite two-cycle mix oil CHAIN PITCH: 3/8 in. CHAIN TYPE: Oregon 72D BAR MOUNT PATTERN: 14 link SHORTEST GUIDE BAR SUPPLIED: 16 in. (40 cm) LONGEST GUIDE BAR SUPPLIED: 24 in. (61 cm) COLOUR SCHEME: Homelite Red enamel with White PAINT CODES: ILLUSTRATED PARTS LIST: SERVICE MANUAL: oes this help? Comes from this website - www.acresinternet.com/cscc.nsf/673d78ec01557aea88256b00005457e6/d8d083a8d741e3db88256c9b00780d89?OpenDocument |
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Post by MCS on Jul 9, 2009 8:19:13 GMT -5
The Super XL came out in the later '60's. It has gone through many cosmetic changes but has stayed relatively the same mechanically. I don't know about the very early units but the early '70's saws didn't have the manual pump installed from the factory, it was an option that could be added by the dealer. The handle casting has always had the pump cylinder but those saws without the pump had a plug. Serial numbers were originally seven digits, as yours is, went to eight, and then to nine. I've never been able to prove this, but I think in the 7 digit series the second number is the year. Your saw has a 7 which would make it 1967. The reason I don't think it is the first digit is I usually find a 1 or 2 in this place. The eight and nine digit serials are covered in this memo: TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETIN NO. 185-008 SUBJECT: SERIAL NUMBERS AFFECTS: ALL MODELS The following information should answer most of your questions regarding serial numbers and how to read them. EXAMPLE: Serial number: 4G1521238 "4" - This number specifies the assembly line the unit was built on. This could also be represented by a letter. "G" - This letter specifies the year of final assembly. (See letter codes below). Before a letter was used to specify the year, a number was used. (See numeric code below). "152" - The next 3 numbers specify the calendar day of the year (day 152). "1238" - This was the 1,238th unit built that day. "G152" - These 4 digits make up the LOT NUMBER. LETTER CODE FOR YEARS: C-1981 D-1982 E-1983 F-1984 G-1985 H-1986 I-1987 J-1988 K-1989 L-1990 M-1991 N-1992 O-1993 P-1994 Q-1995 R-1996 S-1997 T-1998 U-1999 V-2000 W-2001 X-2002 Y-2003 Z-2004 PREVIOUS NUMERIC CODE: 2-1972 3-1973 4-1974 5-1975 6-1976 7-1977 8-1978 9-1979 0-1980 1-1981 Prior to the 9-digit serial number now being used, an 8-digit number was used. The 8-digit number reads the same as the 9-digit number except the assembly line designation was not used. Peery Gibson Service Manager Forestry Products HOMELITE TEXTRON DATE: 3/85 I see someone has had that saw apart and replaced the drive housing with a red one. The SXL was Blue into the '70's for sure but I don't know when the Red paint showed up. Looks like that saw has some miles on it. Does it run  Do you have a compression gauge to take a reading |
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Post by mikem on Jul 9, 2009 8:22:51 GMT -5
Yes...Super XL w/ automatic oiling. Looks like the oil tank was replaced from a different saw. What is that repair done to the gas tank just in front of the cap ?
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Post by chainsawlady on Jul 9, 2009 10:07:13 GMT -5
nrose07
Noticed an error on the spike on your SXL. This has always been a pet peeve of mine, but it happens the majority of the time if the customer installs the bumper plate. It is upside down and mounted on the wrong side of the casting. When you turn it over you will see the plate is cut out to fit on that side of the casting.
Chainsawlady
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Post by MCS on Jul 9, 2009 18:02:53 GMT -5
nrose07 Noticed an error on the spike on your SXL. This has always been a pet peeve of mine, but it happens the majority of the time if the customer installs the bumper plate. It is upside down and mounted on the wrong side of the casting. When you turn it over you will see the plate is cut out to fit on that side of the casting. Chainsawlady Yes, I agree. I notice this when I first viewed the pictures and it is a common mistake even by those who frequently visit this forum.  Let me think, who was that  |
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Post by RandyMac on Jul 9, 2009 18:43:39 GMT -5
Hah hah, where is that Wolfcub?
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Post by nrose07 on Jul 10, 2009 3:06:59 GMT -5
Thanks all,, yes it runs very strong. My father in-law had it rebuilt years ago and supposedly only ran it the one time after. The red RTV is filling in the knotch in the gas tank threads. Oh and make sure to flip the spike! Thanks for all the great info everyone!
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Post by mikem on Jul 10, 2009 7:28:22 GMT -5
Thanks all,, yes it runs very strong. My father in-law had it rebuilt years ago and supposedly only ran it the one time after. The red RTV is filling in the knotch in the gas tank threads. Oh and make sure to flip the spike! Thanks for all the great info everyone! Used gas tanks can be purchased relatively cheaply (E-Pay) if you want to clean up the repair. If not...and it does not leak gas, run it the way it is ;D |
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Post by nrose07 on Jul 10, 2009 13:04:45 GMT -5
Where the cap seals to the rim of the tank there is a square notch cut out from the factory, does not look like damage. Directly on the front side, lowest.
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Post by chainsawwhisperer on Dec 2, 2009 17:45:28 GMT -5
The Super XL came out in the later '60's. It has gone through many cosmetic changes but has stayed relatively the same mechanically. I don't know about the very early units but the early '70's saws didn't have the manual pump installed from the factory, it was an option that could be added by the dealer. The handle casting has always had the pump cylinder but those saws without the pump had a plug. Serial numbers were originally seven digits, as yours is, went to eight, and then to nine. I've never been able to prove this, but I think in the 7 digit series the second number is the year. Your saw has a 7 which would make it 1967. The reason I don't think it is the first digit is I usually find a 1 or 2 in this place. The eight and nine digit serials are covered in this memo: TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETIN NO. 185-008 SUBJECT: SERIAL NUMBERS AFFECTS: ALL MODELS The following information should answer most of your questions regarding serial numbers and how to read them. EXAMPLE: Serial number: 4G1521238 "4" - This number specifies the assembly line the unit was built on. This could also be represented by a letter. "G" - This letter specifies the year of final assembly. (See letter codes below). Before a letter was used to specify the year, a number was used. (See numeric code below). "152" - The next 3 numbers specify the calendar day of the year (day 152). "1238" - This was the 1,238th unit built that day. "G152" - These 4 digits make up the LOT NUMBER. LETTER CODE FOR YEARS: C-1981 D-1982 E-1983 F-1984 G-1985 H-1986 I-1987 J-1988 K-1989 L-1990 M-1991 N-1992 O-1993 P-1994 Q-1995 R-1996 S-1997 T-1998 U-1999 V-2000 W-2001 X-2002 Y-2003 Z-2004 PREVIOUS NUMERIC CODE: 2-1972 3-1973 4-1974 5-1975 6-1976 7-1977 8-1978 9-1979 0-1980 1-1981 Prior to the 9-digit serial number now being used, an 8-digit number was used. The 8-digit number reads the same as the 9-digit number except the assembly line designation was not used. Peery Gibson Service Manager Forestry Products HOMELITE TEXTRON DATE: 3/85 I see someone has had that saw apart and replaced the drive housing with a red one. The SXL was Blue into the '70's for sure but I don't know when the Red paint showed up. Looks like that saw has some miles on it. Does it run Do you have a compression gauge to take a reading Craig, I just got a Very nice Blue 150. Perma hard bar & Homelite chain The Seral# is 30270916, Being that it has an 8 diget S# I think I can assume it's older than the units with 9 diget #s If the 2nd diget is the year code can I assume that it is a 1970? The above states that a 0 would be 1980, but I don't think that's the case. Thoughts? Jim |
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Post by MCS on Dec 2, 2009 20:22:51 GMT -5
In the 9 digit serial the first digit specifies the assembly line the unit was built on. This could also be represented by a letter.Prior to the 9-digit serial number now being used, an 8-digit number was used. The 8-digit number reads the same as the 9-digit number except the assembly line designation was not used.So, in the 8 digit serial, the first digit is the year and in your case, that is a 3 making it a 1973 which fit since it is blue. Where is the picture |
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Post by chainsawwhisperer on Dec 3, 2009 7:40:25 GMT -5
MCS, thanks for the help! I read the post about Serial #s a bunch of times, but was still confused. Well here it is! IMO It is in very nice shape for a 36 year old saw. I don't know what it is about the 150's I really like them. I think that my grandfather had borrowed one at some point, because I do remember a blue 150 sitting in front of his garage 25+ years ago.      |
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Post by lesorubcheek on Dec 3, 2009 7:45:20 GMT -5
Very nice 150 CSW. Yep, there's just sumthin' about those 150s.... Lotsa kick in a pretty small package and well balanced.
Dan
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Post by MCS on Dec 3, 2009 9:57:10 GMT -5
That is one nice "used" 150. Or is it used? Any sawdust in the clutch area or chain track? I don't see any missing paint on the bar stencil either.
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Post by MCS on Dec 3, 2009 10:28:39 GMT -5
This thread has changed topic a couple of time so I'm going to borrow it to ask a question since we have such a nice picture of a Homelite bar. There is a bar on ebay that has an odd looking stencil. cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=230396298788&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:ITIt looks to be the opposite image of the bar on CSWs 150. In other words, a negative. The bar on CSW's 150 is the Permahard that I remember- sold lots of them. Does anyone recognize the stencil on the ebay bar? |
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Post by chainsawwhisperer on Dec 3, 2009 12:25:51 GMT -5
Craig, Scroll down to the 11th pic in the ebay add.
There is another bar at the top, that is not in any other pic???
Either way, it's an odd bar.
Yes, the 150 has been used. But I'll bet there is less than 2 tanks
through it. The sprocket shows no wear!
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Post by chainsawlady on Dec 5, 2009 18:24:58 GMT -5
Craig
Your reference to the all red bar on a 150 on E-Bay. I remember selling that bar will check to see if I have any left. I have several like the one you are talking about GW-24503 for EZ. 150, 101 to 123. It had more silver than red. It is almost too long for any of those except the 123. Don't see much reference to this saw on the forums, but it was one of our favorites. Homelite advertised them as having the most power for the weight.
chainsawlady
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Post by skyvalleysaw on Dec 5, 2009 22:31:40 GMT -5
a few bars   |
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Do you have a compression gauge to take a reading 
