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Post by changeofhobby on Apr 30, 2022 19:43:38 GMT -5
Ok don't know if it matters what model it is but here goes. Acquired a late model ez had blue death coil on it and no spark. So I changed the fly wheel and used a ignition module and a old black points style coil. Got good spark. Removed carb and checked it out. All pieces look good either a new kit was installed or the original held up very well. Tried to start , carb pulled fuel saw sputtered and well about a hour of pulling later another carb and checking and rechecking the metering lever. I can't get it to stay running for more than a few seconds. Even less if I hit the trigger. That makes it absolutely just fall flat on its face and die. So needless to say ant help would be appreciated.
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okie
Saw Builder
Posts: 199
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Post by okie on May 1, 2022 19:38:38 GMT -5
I would do a pressure/vac test.
Also did you know that you can use your Blue coil of death flywheel and Install a $16 Anzac coil and get a good reliable ignition system?
Also what kind of ignition Module (points replacement module chip) are you testing with the points flywheel and points magneto?
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Post by changeofhobby on May 2, 2022 15:14:57 GMT -5
I have great compression, blue spark and carb is sucking fuel from tank. Carb is full of fuel. I have no equipment to do a pressure / vac test. I figured as much about the blue coil and a module but the cover looked loose and I had these parts laying around.
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okie
Saw Builder
Posts: 199
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Post by okie on May 2, 2022 16:00:49 GMT -5
Is that a Nova 2 terminal ignition module (that replaces the points) you are using? If so reverse the polarity and try.
Is the spark plug WET with fuel?
Just some hints about EZ's: If so leave the plug out and crank the saw over several times and let it set overnight, install a new spark plug. I've seen the Champion CJ6 thru 8 quit all at once in the EZ's and no start and new plug would correct the hard start/no start issues. When severely flooded they sometimes have to dry out for about 8-10 hours and then later install the spark plug and try to start without a choke. If hits few pops of don't pop apply a 1/2 choke and try. You might even have to crank holding the throttle wide open, especially if the fast idle start screw is turned too far out for a very slow idle start. (some EZ's prefer that the compression release and idle start screw be set for very fast idle when starting.
Next thing I've seen where you can have spark and no start is mixing of parts on EZ's such as electronic flywheel with a points magneto (all even being wico because the electronic flywheel has reverse flywheel magnets. Also using a Phelon flywheel with a wico/prestolite magneto. All of the above will produce a spark but no run. But some Phelon flywheels if of correct magnet polarity will operate OK with a wico/Prestolite magneto. Why, read below. Sometimes you can get a hint of mixed components if you remove the spark plug and take a REVERSEABLE variable speed drill and spin the flywheel CW (opposite to normal direction) and the spark is stronger) When spinning the flywheel CCW you have to start slow to keep from loosening the flywheel nut. You can determine the polarity of the leading and lagging magnets by using a compass and sticking a small screwdriver to the leading magnet and move a compass towards the screwdriver and if N needle of compass points to the screwdriver the magnet is South polarity. Homelite actually reverse polarized some Phelon flywheels for use on points when they had a wico/prestolite shortage.
Ie: South pole of magnet must enter the magneto first on Wico/Prestolite points systems CCW rotation) North pole of flywheel magnet must enter Wico/Prestolite electronic magneto first on pointless electronic magnetos. (blue coil of death plus others)
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Post by bobby167 on May 2, 2022 18:10:50 GMT -5
Could you post the information on tag. Could read model type / Ut number / serial number. Have something in mind, but don't want to comment, if I'm not sure. Did you try to start / run it with muffler off saw? I'll explain later why.
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Post by changeofhobby on May 3, 2022 17:28:27 GMT -5
Okie it starts up all day long. It just dies like its running out of fuel. 2 carbs later same. Description is in the original post.
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Post by changeofhobby on May 3, 2022 18:00:09 GMT -5
Bobby UT no 10505-B 3F2790203 no on the run without muffler
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okie
Saw Builder
Posts: 199
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Post by okie on May 3, 2022 19:09:40 GMT -5
Okie it starts up all day long. It just dies like its running out of fuel. 2 carbs later same. Description is in the original post. Yep, I'm missed that it runs until throttled. Does it try to idle for awhile if not throttled. (like maybe for 15 to 30 seconds) Have you checked the 4 1/2 inch nuts that hold the jug cylinder to the block to make sure they are tight? (all 4 have to be really snug)
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Post by bobby167 on May 3, 2022 19:54:05 GMT -5
UT number shows it as a Super EZ Automatic. Correct? Did you check fuel cap vent? When it stops, pull plug and see if it is wet or dry. Did you replace any carb parts? When you replaced ignition parts, where they Wico or Phelon? The carb's you have same size? I know, lots of questions, but they will help us with your problem. .,
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Post by changeofhobby on May 8, 2022 17:15:52 GMT -5
Got some other things I got to get to around here. I'll post how I make out when I get back to it. Thanks for the hug help thus far.
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Post by tangobravo on May 8, 2022 19:37:10 GMT -5
Might be good to make a check on the carburetors internal check valve for the main fuel feed. Most never test this, and it will cause a lot of running/tuning headaches. Quick "suction test" as per Leon Crouches video on the topic. www.youtube.com/watch?v=8sV35OCH3ZE These valves didn't need to be changed for the first 30-45 years and might be time to get a new one.
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