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Post by keknw8 on Oct 31, 2021 12:44:33 GMT -5
makeing progress. i got the 150 back together with new solid state coil. it produces a nice spark. note, i also put in a new fuel line, new fuel filter, and walbro hdc-45 carb kit rebuild, fuel cap valve replaced, earlier. but ... it wouldn't start. i could see that fuel moved in fuel line from tank to carb. so fuel is getting pulled from tank to carb. i put a tiny squirt of starter fluid in carb barrel by choke. ( i read too late that is a no no while reading posts here on fuel issues today, my mistake ). anyway it started right up and stayed started. fiddled a bit with the lo, hi and idle needles to smooth it out a bit. i let it run for about 5 min. turned it off. tried started again but wouldn't start, same as before. the manual i have states for hard to start units to open the "lo" needle 3/4 turn and "hi" needle 1 full turn which is what i've done. idle 3/4 turn. for fuel, i'm using RedArmor Fuel, 50:1 premium mix fuel+oil, ethanol free 93 octane. granted it isn't the 32:1 ratio mentioned in the manual but some folks had mentioned the 50:1 premium mix would be ok. question1: i read where it is suggested to put a lil squirt of premix in the carb. is that just the fuel mixture i have or some other mix? question2: would a dirty pulse hole cause this behavior? question2: suggestions on what to check why it seems it isn't pulling fuel on initial start but does after starting?
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Post by onlyhomelites on Nov 3, 2021 1:23:15 GMT -5
Fuel mixture is fine for a prime. A clogged pulse hole could prevent the saw from drawing fuel, but clearly that's not the case here. A lack of pulse wouldn't allow the fuel pump side of the carb to work at all. It's not super common, but I've run across this enough times to make it worth mentioning: make sure the passage between the fuel screen and the inlet needle is clear. Also, make sure your pump diaphragm is against the aluminum block (on the fuel inlet side) and the gasket is on the outside against the cover.
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Post by blythkd on Nov 3, 2021 6:32:55 GMT -5
Another longshot might be the rubber carb connector that connects the carb to the engine. I've seen a couple of them with holes/tears in them. That causes a hard start situation.
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Post by onlyhomelites on Nov 3, 2021 21:49:13 GMT -5
Another longshot might be the rubber carb connector that connects the carb to the engine. I've seen a couple of them with holes/tears in them. That causes a hard start situation. I've never found a bad one, but I know it has to happen at some point. The 150 far and away has the most durable boot of any of the piston ported Homelite's! |
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Post by keknw8 on Nov 4, 2021 13:15:32 GMT -5
Another longshot might be the rubber carb connector that connects the carb to the engine. I've seen a couple of them with holes/tears in them. That causes a hard start situation. you mean the "Manifold-intake A-68520-2" ? i'll attach a few images of it. to me, granted old eyes, the side that bolts to engine looks a uneven, not exactly flat. there are two gaskets between it and the enging block. those gaskets look ok. when i took off the manifold-intake there seemed a bit of oil/fuel on that first gasket that the manifold-intake touches. and the bolts were tight not loose. may be a bit of oil there is normal? i don't know. i cleaned the oil/fuel off that first gasket before taking these images so you can't see what i mean by oil/fuel on the gasket where i wouldn't think there would be any. btw, the pusle hole was clean, no dirt, nothing.
the images show the first gasket, listed as "Cover-Pulse 68671". it had the oil/fuel on most of its surface. the gasket behind it, (no image) is the "Gasket-intake manifold, 68464" the other image is the "Manifold-Intake A-68520-2". i'm gonna order from ebay, and see if its more flat and then use that one.
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Post by keknw8 on Nov 4, 2021 14:13:25 GMT -5
Fuel mixture is fine for a prime. A clogged pulse hole could prevent the saw from drawing fuel, but clearly that's not the case here. A lack of pulse wouldn't allow the fuel pump side of the carb to work at all. It's not super common, but I've run across this enough times to make it worth mentioning: make sure the passage between the fuel screen and the inlet needle is clear. Also, make sure your pump diaphragm is against the aluminum block (on the fuel inlet side) and the gasket is on the outside against the cover. i checked the pulse hole wasn't clogged. but you knew that was the case. thanks for the education on that.
i may have gotten something wrong when i put the carb rebuild Walbro K10-HDC kit in it along with the Walbro 86-523-Nozzle Check Valve Kit.
do you mean this fuel pump gasket? the "diaphragm - fuel pump" is underneath that gasket, i think. the fuel inlet screen is in place. this is a walbro "HDC-45 L" carb.
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Post by keknw8 on Nov 4, 2021 14:20:47 GMT -5
Another longshot might be the rubber carb connector that connects the carb to the engine. I've seen a couple of them with holes/tears in them. That causes a hard start situation. I've never found a bad one, but I know it has to happen at some point. The 150 far and away has the most durable boot of any of the piston ported Homelite's! it is seriouly hard rubber on this unit. |
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Post by blythkd on Nov 4, 2021 19:27:12 GMT -5
Yes the A-68520-2 is the rubber part that I was referring to. Like Leon said, they're pretty tough but I've seen a couple fail. It was probably fairly flexible 50 years ago, now it's likely pretty stiff and unlikely to flex much.
The fuel pump diaphragm is the one that Leon mentioned to make sure it's against the carb body with the gasket on top then the cover. On the other side of the carb, the gasket goes on first up against the carb body then the metering diaphragm then the cover.
Give that a shot with new intake gaskets and see where you are.
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Post by keknw8 on Nov 4, 2021 21:01:02 GMT -5
Yes the A-68520-2 is the rubber part that I was referring to. Like Leon said, they're pretty tough but I've seen a couple fail. It was probably fairly flexible 50 years ago, now it's likely pretty stiff and unlikely to flex much. The fuel pump diaphragm is the one that Leon mentioned to make sure it's against the carb body with the gasket on top then the cover. On the other side of the carb, the gasket goes on first up against the carb body then the metering diaphragm then the cover. Give that a shot with new intake gaskets and see where you are.
wilco. back in a few days....
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Post by keknw8 on Nov 8, 2021 11:12:48 GMT -5
onlyhomelitesblythkd@ et al. over the weekend took the HDC-45-L apart to recheck my install of the Walbro's K10-HDC & 86-523-Nozzle Check Valve Kit. posting some images along the process. this i the schematic of the carb i'm using.
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Post by keknw8 on Nov 8, 2021 11:14:19 GMT -5
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Post by keknw8 on Nov 8, 2021 11:16:36 GMT -5
[metering/check-valve side]
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Post by keknw8 on Nov 8, 2021 11:18:53 GMT -5
[manifold and housing sides ]
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Post by keknw8 on Nov 8, 2021 11:22:13 GMT -5
[parts i replaced] a few random thoughts/questions about replacing the check valve kit: 1). the original check-valve looked more like a membrane to me. you can see in the close up. the replacement looks more like a screen to me. could be splitting hairs, thought i would post it anyways. 2). a silver dome "thing" came with the "Seat Assembly-Check Valve", didn't use it b/c i didn't see where it was supposed to go. 3). removing the "Seat Assembly-Check Valve" wasn't easy. you can see the markings on the one i removed. broke two dental type probes attempting it. it did finally come out. ;-)
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Post by keknw8 on Nov 8, 2021 11:58:05 GMT -5
[ Miranda's -- Walbro HDC Carburetor Full Disassembly, Check Valve Replacement & Testing ] www.youtube.com/watch?v=n16qcMctvnw[ Kevin's -- Walbro HDC Carburetor Repair For Kevin's Homelite XL-2 ] www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zq75GYrIqFQthese are the two carburetor video's from Mr. Leon's youtube series i viewed and tried to follow. serious good! help there. after getting the carb back together i put a pressure tester to it. and of course there was a fast leak. but of course. lol. it wasn't a leak on the metering side like Kevin's carb b/c i couldn't hear any air escaping on that side or the other side. took that side apart and couldn't find any issues. watched Mirands's carb video and just like in the video, i put some soapy water around the cover on the fuel inlet side, and there are leaks coming from three sides, one side being worse. so far so good tracking down a point(s) of failure. but i don't have a hex head bolt to fit that cover like in the video. to me, there are some tiny rough places around the perimeter on that side. you might be able to see that in one of the images i uploaded. a good hex head bolt might make that a mute point. guess i'll order another K10-HDC just to get some new gaskets for that fuel inlet side and go to homedepot and try to find a bolt like Leon used in Miranda's video to batten down that cover better. certainly open to ideas to get that leak secured. |
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Post by blythkd on Nov 8, 2021 12:24:27 GMT -5
[parts i replaced] a few random thoughts/questions about replacing the check valve kit: 1). the original check-valve looked more like a membrane to me. you can see in the close up. the replacement looks more like a screen to me. could be splitting hairs, thought i would post it anyways. 2). a silver dome "thing" came with the "Seat Assembly-Check Valve", didn't use it b/c i didn't see where it was supposed to go. 3). removing the "Seat Assembly-Check Valve" wasn't easy. you can see the markings on the one i removed. broke two dental type probes attempting it. it did finally come out. ;-)
<button disabled="" class="c-attachment-insert--linked o-btn--sm">Attachment Deleted</button>
<button disabled="" class="c-attachment-insert--linked o-btn--sm">Attachment Deleted</button>
1) The check valve disc itself has to be impervious to air flow. Some are black rubber, some are more of a beige more rigid poly material of some sort. Not sure which the new kits are coming with but it should not be a screen. The only screen would be held in the brass seat with a snap ring. Once installed you can check the function with a short length of fuel line, alternatively sucking and blowing on the fuel line with the opposite end pressed firmly against the brass seat. You should be able to blow through it but not suck any air through it. 2) The silver dome thing is a welch plug, or soft plug to some folks. It's not used on your carb. |
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Post by onlyhomelites on Nov 9, 2021 0:07:22 GMT -5
You could also hit the gasket itself with some Permatex Gasket Sealer...the red stuff soaks in and works well.
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Post by keknw8 on Nov 9, 2021 11:40:32 GMT -5
[parts i replaced] a few random thoughts/questions about replacing the check valve kit: 1). the original check-valve looked more like a membrane to me. you can see in the close up. the replacement looks more like a screen to me. could be splitting hairs, thought i would post it anyways. 2). a silver dome "thing" came with the "Seat Assembly-Check Valve", didn't use it b/c i didn't see where it was supposed to go. 3). removing the "Seat Assembly-Check Valve" wasn't easy. you can see the markings on the one i removed. broke two dental type probes attempting it. it did finally come out. ;-)
<button disabled="" class="c-attachment-insert--linked o-btn--sm">Attachment Deleted</button>
<button disabled="" class="c-attachment-insert--linked o-btn--sm">Attachment Deleted</button>
1) The check valve disc itself has to be impervious to air flow. Some are black rubber, some are more of a beige more rigid poly material of some sort. Not sure which the new kits are coming with but it should not be a screen. The only screen would be held in the brass seat with a snap ring. Once installed you can check the function with a short length of fuel line, alternatively sucking and blowing on the fuel line with the opposite end pressed firmly against the brass seat. You should be able to blow through it but not suck any air through it. 2) The silver dome thing is a welch plug, or soft plug to some folks. It's not used on your carb.that worked. i forgot the "beige rigid.." disk is under the seat assembly. your test worked, good to go. thx for the explanation. |
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Post by keknw8 on Nov 9, 2021 12:04:00 GMT -5
You could also hit the gasket itself with some Permatex Gasket Sealer...the red stuff soaks in and works well. wasn't sure what to use, so thanks for the tip. i'll give this a try. |
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