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Post by keknw8 on Oct 2, 2021 16:49:52 GMT -5
wanted to ask before i break something: this is the corrrect way to use this puller, yes? it seems stuck, i.e, the puller doesn't seem to break it free even with pb blaster. the plate on the puller bent a little on the first few try's so i flipped it on its other side. do i put more torgue on the wrench, or add a small propane flame to the center of the flywheel?
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Post by bobby167 on Oct 2, 2021 17:54:06 GMT -5
Yes, looks correct. Tighten bolt down, Take a hammer & tap on center of puller bolt. Should come loose.
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Post by tangobravo on Oct 2, 2021 18:45:02 GMT -5
Tensioning, then tapping with a hammer is what will release it. Let the penetrating oil work longer-a couple days sometimes may be necessary if its not coming off. It will snap loose when it goes. They never seem to draw off.
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Post by Clasec on Oct 2, 2021 18:52:39 GMT -5
You may want to put the nut back on the threads flush with the end so the tip of the crankshaft won't mushroom.
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Post by keknw8 on Oct 3, 2021 16:41:12 GMT -5
You may want to put the nut back on the threads flush with the end so the tip of the crankshaft won't mushroom. thanks, i was curious about that mushroom possibility after reading some other posts here. |
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Post by keknw8 on Oct 3, 2021 16:42:37 GMT -5
thanks everyone for your input!! i'll try all the advice. i'll post back in a few days on the success.
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Post by lesorubcheek on Oct 4, 2021 12:54:42 GMT -5
You may want to put the nut back on the threads flush with the end so the tip of the crankshaft won't mushroom. thanks, i was curious about that mushroom possibility after reading some other posts here. Very good advice. I've done it before  . Not fun trying to file down and re-thread the end of a crank. Live and learn. Dan |
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Post by xl130 on Oct 6, 2021 19:46:59 GMT -5
I use heat, penetrating fluid and a good sharp wack on the end of that bolt that is on the puller for the stubborn ones. Heat and crank the bolt till it’s tight then let it sit in tension. Give it a wack or two then leave it and go at it again later. They sometimes pop off quite violently!!
I have hit the puller on one side in the past to try and pop them but that’s not always successful and you can hit a fin as well.
Definitely not something you want to rush! Nut on the crank is a must! I’ve wrecked one and learned my lesson. Be patient and if your getting frustrated then walk away for a day.
Good luck!
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Post by keknw8 on Oct 7, 2021 18:34:11 GMT -5
I use heat, penetrating fluid and a good sharp wack on the end of that bolt that is on the puller for the stubborn ones. Heat and crank the bolt till it’s tight then let it sit in tension. Give it a wack or two then leave it and go at it again later. They sometimes pop off quite violently!! I have hit the puller on one side in the past to try and pop them but that’s not always successful and you can hit a fin as well. Definitely not something you want to rush! Nut on the crank is a must! I’ve wrecked one and learned my lesson. Be patient and if your getting frustrated then walk away for a day. Good luck! glad you mention that. i'm back for round three as i haven't gotten it loose yet. and those items you mention were on my question list...
note the two smaller bolts to the side of the large center bolt on the puller, one has started to bend a bit. not sure how much tighter i can crank down.
i have had to walk away a few times due to frustration. hence why this is taking so long. lol
for my questions:
q1) for heat are you using like a small propane torch or a hot-air gun? q2) you are heating the puller bolt, yes? from the top of the puller bolt or where the puller bolt meets the shaft? q3) "nut on the crank", you mean the rotor nut or just some surplus left threaded nut? the rotor nut has bearings in it, i'm a bit leery to whack it.
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Post by lesorubcheek on Oct 7, 2021 18:50:48 GMT -5
glad you mention that. i'm back for round three as i haven't gotten it loose yet. and those items you mention were on my question list... note the two smaller bolts to the side of the large center bolt on the puller, one has started to bend a bit. not sure how much tighter i can crank down.
i have had to walk away a few times due to frustration. hence why this is taking so long. lol
for my questions: q1) for heat are you using like a small propane torch or a hot-air gun? q2) you are heating the puller bolt, yes? from the top of the puller bolt or where the puller bolt meets the shaft? q3) "nut on the crank", you mean the rotor nut or just some surplus left threaded nut? the rotor nut has bearings in it, i'm a bit leery to whack it.
Uh oh, I didn't notice that was a 150! Apologies because if I'd noticed that, I wouldn't have said what I did about the nut. So far, I haven't found a left hand threaded nut to fit. No local hardware stores around here have them. Seemed like I determined the size and maybe found one at McMaster Carr or somewhere but never ordered one. Maybe someone else has a good source, but it stumped me. The last couple I fooled with, just found a piece of flat iron to fit between the crank and the puller bolt so it wouldn't rotate directly on it, and luckily they came off easy enough. Dan |
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Post by xl130 on Oct 7, 2021 18:50:52 GMT -5
Heat the flywheel a torch till it smokes. Don’t go crazy but it’s got to be pretty hot so that it will expand ever so slightly. Wack the puller bolt. It will send vibrations down the crank shaft and loosen the flywheel. The “nut” is the nut that holds the flywheel on the end of the crank shaft. Leave it on just so that it is flush with the end of the shaft. It will help to center the puller and possibly avoid damaging the end of the crank shaft. Here s a picture of my puller. Same as yours but has been used many times! It’s been though a few battles! I’ll also add a video of removing a flywheel the quick and dirt way. It’s much safer with a puller but will give you an idea of how and where to heat it.   youtu.be/uAY1H-zWMI8 |
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Post by bobby167 on Oct 7, 2021 19:29:57 GMT -5
Go to home page, Click on HoH help center. On search type in flywheel removal. Should be third one down. Thread from 2018. Some good information there. Heat? Be careful, could ruin seal. As other posters said, take your time. I haven't had trouble removing the ones on my 150's.Hope this page will give you some good information.
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Post by bobby167 on Oct 7, 2021 20:02:13 GMT -5
Just thought of something i have done before. Take a piece of tubing / hose that is straight & cut off true, couple inches long. Put some sealant that is oil / gas resistant around bottom of tube. Fill it up with your penetrating oil, I use deep creep by seafoam. Let it sit, so the lube has time to go down around the taper & key-way in flywheel. This keeps it from running all over the place. Could work for you.
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Post by xl130 on Oct 7, 2021 21:16:01 GMT -5
Well there ya have it. Many examples and tips. I’m sure you will have success and find what works for you. The old saying about a skinning a cat comes to mind.
Best of luck!
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okie
Saw Builder
Posts: 203
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Post by okie on Oct 8, 2021 17:12:02 GMT -5
On the tough ones I take a propane torch and a pencil tip flame and heat the FLYWHEEL just out from the crank, stop heating when you spit on the heated area around the flywheel crankshaft and it spits back or a drop of water spits back. Then take care and snug up the puller with a good feel for when it's secure
AND then
Have a way to hold up on the puller or flywheel and gently tap the center pulley bolt.
The heat/cool is your friend and holding up on the flywheel gives the crank some itty bitty room to move down all at once when the puller bolt is gently whacked.
You need to add the flywheel nut or you ARE GOING TO MUSHROOM the crank.
Also make sure all of the puller is aligned properly and the side puller bolts/screws are tightened evenly.
You may have to heat/cool 2 or 3 times.
Don't be concerned about getting the flywheel magnet getting too hot or the crank seal if you stop heating when it spits back your slobbers or water drops.
Stay calm. Just letting one set under tension overnight will sometimes get er dun with a hammer tap the next day.
Also do not grease or oil the crank or flywheel taper when going back, it will eventually shear the key if oily. It relies on the machined taper to stay in place. The key is only to keep the flywheel timing correct.
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Post by blythkd on Oct 8, 2021 21:14:27 GMT -5
He can't put the flywheel nut back on. It's a 150. Only option there would be to find a LH nut, 5/16 I think. I'm not sure where you'd find one without ordering one from a big warehouser. Somebody mentioned McMaster-Carr I think. I'd just put something in between the puller bolt and the end of the crank to protect it.
I wouldn't crank that Grade 8 puller bolt down against the crank too hard. The bolt on the puller that I used the most over the years was a Grade 5 bolt and it never mushroomed a crank. All I ever did was tighten the snot out of it and tap the end of the puller bolt with a small hammer. That took hundreds of flywheels off. I think my puller was a bit stiffer though. I'm seeing pictures of bent pullers here.
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okie
Saw Builder
Posts: 203
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Post by okie on Oct 9, 2021 7:42:31 GMT -5
He can't put the flywheel nut back on. It's a 150. Only option there would be to find a LH nut, 5/16 I think. I'm not sure where you'd find one without ordering one from a big warehouser. Somebody mentioned McMaster-Carr I think. I'd just put something in between the puller bolt and the end of the crank to protect it. I wouldn't crank that Grade 8 puller bolt down against the crank too hard. The bolt on the puller that I used the most over the years was a Grade 5 bolt and it never mushroomed a crank. All I ever did was tighten the snot out of it and tap the end of the puller bolt with a small hammer. That took hundreds of flywheels off. I think my puller was a bit stiffer though. I'm seeing pictures of bent pullers here. When I mentioned holding up on the flywheel before tapping the puller bolt is in the same category of pulling old rusted stuck steering wheels from the old model Vec's where you pulled/pushed up on the steering wheel with your knees BEFORE you whacked the puller bolt. A bigger hammer and getting rougher is usually not the answer. Bending pullers is also not a good thing and when the smaller side puller bolts/screws start bending sideways they will usually snap off at the threads or strip out the flywheel threaded holes. Lots of vendors for LH hardware on-line. Fastenol might be one source. Figure out the size and thread pitch and go shopping, get a thick nut so as to cover as many crank threads as possible but still not be tight to the flywheel. BUT also keep in mind that when using a thinned out nut or nut other than the same crank's nut will not ensure that the OEM cranks nut will go back (rethread) on the crank because sometimes BOTH mushroom together when several whacks are made but the crank nut will still go back on due to mushrooming with the crank shaft threads.  |
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Post by keknw8 on Oct 10, 2021 3:14:17 GMT -5
He can't put the flywheel nut back on. It's a 150. Only option there would be to find a LH nut, 5/16 I think. I'm not sure where you'd find one without ordering one from a big warehouser. Somebody mentioned McMaster-Carr I think. I'd just put something in between the puller bolt and the end of the crank to protect it. I wouldn't crank that Grade 8 puller bolt down against the crank too hard. The bolt on the puller that I used the most over the years was a Grade 5 bolt and it never mushroomed a crank. All I ever did was tighten the snot out of it and tap the end of the puller bolt with a small hammer. That took hundreds of flywheels off. I think my puller was a bit stiffer though. I'm seeing pictures of bent pullers here. When I mentioned holding up on the flywheel before tapping the puller bolt is in the same category of pulling old rusted stuck steering wheels from the old model Vec's where you pulled/pushed up on the steering wheel with your knees BEFORE you whacked the puller bolt. A bigger hammer and getting rougher is usually not the answer. Bending pullers is also not a good thing and when the smaller side puller bolts/screws start bending sideways they will usually snap off at the threads or strip out the flywheel threaded holes. Lots of vendors for LH hardware on-line. Fastenol might be one source. Figure out the size and thread pitch and go shopping, get a thick nut so as to cover as many crank threads as possible but still not be tight to the flywheel. BUT also keep in mind that when using a thinned out nut or nut other than the same crank's nut will not ensure that the OEM cranks nut will go back (rethread) on the crank because sometimes BOTH mushroom together when several whacks are made but the crank nut will still go back on due to mushrooming with the crank shaft threads. thanks for the heads up. it's taken this much time, so i'm going to locate a LH nut before i mess the crank up. luckily the smaller puller bolts didn't break or strip out, i.e, i can screw them in and out last time i checked. so far the crank end hasn't mushroomed and the rotor nut still threads. i'll get that nut and try all these suggestions. thanks!! |
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Post by keknw8 on Oct 10, 2021 3:20:41 GMT -5
He can't put the flywheel nut back on. It's a 150. Only option there would be to find a LH nut, 5/16 I think. I'm not sure where you'd find one without ordering one from a big warehouser. Somebody mentioned McMaster-Carr I think. I'd just put something in between the puller bolt and the end of the crank to protect it. I wouldn't crank that Grade 8 puller bolt down against the crank too hard. The bolt on the puller that I used the most over the years was a Grade 5 bolt and it never mushroomed a crank. All I ever did was tighten the snot out of it and tap the end of the puller bolt with a small hammer. That took hundreds of flywheels off. I think my puller was a bit stiffer though. I'm seeing pictures of bent pullers here.
that's right, it is a 150 and i believe i would damage this rotor nut putting on during this procedure. i'm going to locate a LH nut and just go with that along with the tips posted here and see how my mileage goes. appreciate your tips and info.
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Post by keknw8 on Oct 10, 2021 3:25:18 GMT -5
On the tough ones I take a propane torch and a pencil tip flame and heat the FLYWHEEL just out from the crank, stop heating when you spit on the heated area around the flywheel crankshaft and it spits back or a drop of water spits back. Then take care and snug up the puller with a good feel for when it's secure AND then Have a way to hold up on the puller or flywheel and gently tap the center pulley bolt. The heat/cool is your friend and holding up on the flywheel gives the crank some itty bitty room to move down all at once when the puller bolt is gently whacked. You need to add the flywheel nut or you ARE GOING TO MUSHROOM the crank. Also make sure all of the puller is aligned properly and the side puller bolts/screws are tightened evenly. You may have to heat/cool 2 or 3 times. Don't be concerned about getting the flywheel magnet getting too hot or the crank seal if you stop heating when it spits back your slobbers or water drops. Stay calm. Just letting one set under tension overnight will sometimes get er dun with a hammer tap the next day. Also do not grease or oil the crank or flywheel taper when going back, it will eventually shear the key if oily. It relies on the machined taper to stay in place. The key is only to keep the flywheel timing correct. my dense brain needed a bit of explanation so many thanks for breaking it down like you did. after i get the LH nut i'll put these tips to work. thank you! |
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. Not fun trying to file down and re-thread the end of a crank. Live and learn.
