Tachometer or not

[gonup]

Who sells a good tach for checking rpm and my ear? 

[xl130]

I have one that came in a carburetor pressure tester kit that I bought. It’s very low quality but seems to work well. Can’t really recommend a certain model but I think any middle of the road quality model that does not need to be attached to the spark plug wire is worth buying.

I use it whenever I tune a high rpm piston ported saw . I find those hard to tune by ear.,,.

[okie]

You might try this link.
Go to the site and type in tachometer into the search bar and more hits will take place.
You might have to register?

I would suggest on choosing a digital model that has a replaceable battery.
Some do not allow bat replacement.
I have a old model pet by echo that works good. Cost about $60. You need a good reliable one instead of China junk.
I use a IR thermometer more than I use a tach. The IR gives me a fast heads up if a saw's engine is overheating.
You can find some info at this site also about using a Infrared Thermometer.
www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/best-tach.352118/#post-7520036


www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/best-tach.352118/#post-7520036

[gonup]

Thanks for the link. Looks like I have some reading to do.

I am registered there but I have a hard time navigating that site.

Wes

[fridayrack]

thanks for the source i will gett this link. this might be very helpful for newbiees

[jklw77]

tried Electronic Specialties 328 EZTach Plus , like the features but not always a consistent reading

[sharkey]

Here is what I use:
www.ebay.com/itm/184817541259?hash=item2b07fbe08b:g:GvAAAOSwzjxeFpFQ

[Jarhead ☠]

www.mechanicwiz.com/small-engine-tachometers/

[okie]

I always look for an excuse to BUY A NEW TOOL.
I've got a PET Tach by echo and very rarely even use it any more.
I've found when a chainsaw is tuned for proper 4 stroking (running rich on gas) it usually will not exceed the spec'ed rpms when in a cut with a sharp chain. 4 stroking is keeping the engine from overheating due to lean condition. (lots of gas hitting the 2 cycle engine's piston) ,keeping the piston from swelling into the cylinder wall and gas is the major contributor to keeping the engine cool when loaded down and producing power, air cooling helps but is not the major cooling when under a load for longer than 30 seconds. If piston starts swelling into the cylinder wall due to lean condition then the piston scuffing starts producing heat also and the heat cycle is into a run away and sometimes engine seizing. (the engine is eating itself due to overheating)
I mainly use a IR thermometer instead of a Tach now days.
When a 2 cycle is is running lean under a heavy load the Tach rpms can be below max spec by quite a bit and the engine is can be overheating severely and destroying itself.
I've seen such happen on chainsaws quite often due to a Bubba not adjusting the carb correctly usually.