|
|
Post by mikem on Jun 7, 2009 14:44:04 GMT -5
I had to make a flywheel puller out of 1/4" plate yesterday to get the darn thing off. Yea .....the drilled holes in the plate to match the holes in the flywheel with the welded nut type of puller. I lubed the shaft with NeverSeize when i put it back together. Had to take it off again and the puller was not needed at all. Were these things designed to be assembled dry ??  |
|
|
|
Post by MCS on Jun 7, 2009 18:16:13 GMT -5
The flywheel key is only there for alignment. The flywheel must be assembled dry because it is the tapered shaft that prevents the flywheel from getting out of time while running. Running with never seize or the likes will eventually allow the flywheel to slip and tear up the crankshaft key way and the flywheel key way.
|
|
|
|
Post by mikem on Jun 7, 2009 20:57:46 GMT -5
The flywheel key is only there for alignment. The flywheel must be assembled dry because it is the tapered shaft that prevents the flywheel from getting out of time while running. Running with never seize or the likes will eventually allow the flywheel to slip and tear up the crankshaft key way and the flywheel key way. Makes sense ...Glad I asked the question  Thanks Craig |
|
|
|
Post by billg on Jun 8, 2009 2:06:55 GMT -5
The flywheel key is only there for alignment. The flywheel must be assembled dry because it is the tapered shaft that prevents the flywheel from getting out of time while running. Running with never seize or the likes will eventually allow the flywheel to slip and tear up the crankshaft key way and the flywheel key way. I agree but it the key is tight and the flywheel is tight never seize will not allow it to slip and tear up the crank. Bill |
|
|
|
Post by mikem on Jun 8, 2009 22:34:27 GMT -5
Looks like we have a split opinion on whether to grease or not. Maybe I can complicate it further. If you wanted the saw to run(occasionally) but not to cut wood....would you grease the flywheel shaft on re-assembly ?? The reason I ask is the saw has low hours, is cosmetically in very good condition and I would like to preserve the appearance but I want the saw to run.
|
|
|
|
Post by billg on Jun 9, 2009 1:08:52 GMT -5
I have never put any lube on them. My point was that it should have no affect.
Bill
|
|
|
|
Post by mikem on Jun 9, 2009 9:33:58 GMT -5
Looks like we have a split opinion on whether to grease or not. Not really. Just me vs. what everyone else does. My reasoning is simple. I just want the FW to come off again in the future without a supreme hassle. A little smear of grease gets that to happen. This is only what _I_ do. I have lubed every FW that gave me trouble coming off, which is nearly every one I've done. This is over years and years of small engine work. I dont gob the grease on. Sometimes its not even grease, just whatever I have handy, including bar oil. I just apply enough lube to prevent the metals from sticking together again. If this is scientificaly wrong, I didnt know it. Bottom line, I recommend doing whatever you are comfortable with, or whatever makes sense to you. BTW, my saws do get used to cut, but nothing hardcore. Just enough to keep me in wood thru the winter months, and then a few times during the summer to clean up tornader damage. Good luck. One of the good things about this board is there are enough "experienced opinions" for a person to weigh the choices and make an educated decision. Although I believe Craig is correct in that "technically" the friction of the FW on the tapered shaft is what prevents the FW from rotating, I also see some merit from a light film of oil to prevent sticking. Thanks guys ;D PS: OldZip....I hope you do not get a chance to use your saws to repair any tornado damage this year !! |
|
|
|
Post by lesorubcheek on Jun 9, 2009 12:08:03 GMT -5
Just throwin' in my 2 cents as far as what I do (right or wrong, good or bad, + or -, obama or Jefferson, .... ah you get the idea). I use some type of lube, and usually about like what OldZip described, being what's available. My intent is for one thing, and that's corrosion prevention. First step is a light sanding with some fine (like 800 or 1000) grit emory on the crank and inside the flywheel, and a good cleaning, and then some oil based lubricant that I wipe off any excess. I don't just glob it on and leave it, but smear it around and wipe away, just leaving a fine layer. Again, for rust prevention. Anyways, that's what I do, and so far no slipped flywheels. Just make sure they're torqued down properly.
Dan
|
|
