Few XLW questions

[bar]

I found a homelite xlw ut-10618 in my late grandfathers shop recently. No oil, no fuel. Chain was seized, motor turns over fine. Carb is stamped hdc-65 and 4/82.

Turns out the bar was so worn the metal was starting squeeze inward into the tract preventing the chain from sliding through. Lot of use! So I cleaned everything up, ground the tip of the bar a bit with a Dremel, took seals off of carb and shot cleaner through it, reassembled, but I can’t get it to start without ether. It will run mid throttle to wide open just fine and with good response, but will not idle for more than a second or two and will not start without ether.

I have a carb kit coming with seals, some Chinese brand, but is there anything else I should be looking at? I don’t have access to an ultrasonic cleaner, although I suppose I could pay my local small engine shop if anyone thinks it’s pertinent.

Also, what are the specs for the chain for this saw? Or how do I identify it myself? The chain just says “mini” with a mountain design below it.

Thanks everyone.

[sweepleader]

Sounds like you have the right parts coming, once you get them in it should run.

DO NOT use ether in a 2 cycle engine, it will wash the oil out of the engine in a flash and you will be replacing cylinder, rings and bearings.

Welcome to the House of Homelite. Keep posting your questions, folks will be happy to answer.

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Apr 25, 2021 22:17:53 GMT -5 sweepleader said:

Sounds like you have the right parts coming, once you get them in it should run.

DO NOT use ether in a 2 cycle engine, it will wash the oil out of the engine in a flash and you will be replacing cylinder, rings and bearings.

Welcome to the House of Homelite. Keep posting your questions, folks will be happy to answer.

I didn’t realize that, thank you. I ran it for a few minutes a couple times WOT after using ether to start. Do you think it’s alright or should I give it a tear down and inspect?

[sweepleader]

If you went to WOT with ether in there, I would be pulling the muffler for a look for sure and doing a compression test. The rings and piston are the first to go when there is no lube in the fuel.

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Apr 27, 2021 7:26:02 GMT -5 sweepleader said:

If you went to WOT with ether in there, I would be pulling the muffler for a look for sure and doing a compression test. The rings and piston are the first to go when there is no lube in the fuel.

I used a shot of ether in the intake, not in the fuel though, so I’d imagine it got burnt immediately no? I just check my starting fluid, it claims to be safe for diesel and gas engines and contains upper cylinder lubricants. At least there’s that.

What’s compression supposed to be at? Couldn’t hurt to check.

[rowdy235]

If you spray ether in the intake, it will go through the crankcase and wash oil off the bearings. They don’t make ether to go into the gas that I’m aware of. I’m guilty of using it on occasion, and a sniff of it probably won’t hurt anything, keeping the engine running on it is definitely a no-no. I would guess the engine ran on gas once it started on ether? If it ran only on ether at WOT would do some damage in a hurry.

I usually look for 120-160psi for compression. If the saw hasn’t been run in a while could be lower, maybe as low as 90psi. Popping the exhaust off will give you a quick and easy look at the piston/cylinder for condition, I’d prefer that over a comp test myself.

[bar]

Apr 27, 2021 18:33:05 GMT -5 rowdy235 said:

If you spray ether in the intake, it will go through the crankcase and wash oil off the bearings. They don’t make ether to go into the gas that I’m aware of. I’m guilty of using it on occasion, and a sniff of it probably won’t hurt anything, keeping the engine running on it is definitely a no-no. I would guess the engine ran on gas once it started on ether? If it ran only on ether at WOT would do some damage in a hurry.

I usually look for 120-160psi for compression. If the saw hasn’t been run in a while could be lower, maybe as low as 90psi. Popping the exhaust off will give you a quick and easy look at the piston/cylinder for condition, I’d prefer that over a comp test myself.

Thanks. I should have known the cylinder would be trashed though. When I found the saw It was covered in oil, wood chips and dust. Pretty sure it had the original air filter from 1982 in it too as it was falling apart and deteriorated. Tons of dust and wood chips in the intake.
The cylinder itself isn’t miserably shot, although it ain’t great, but the piston and rings are just scored and ruined. Not sure if it would be worth replacing the piston and rings. With the carb off I can hear are leak past the rings at TDC quickly.
Maybe if I ever come across another UT-10618 I’ll see if the top end looks any better and swap it out.

With all that said, I did manage to get it running pretty well. Only had to take it apart about 12 times. The China diaphragm in my kit had a dimple that was about 4 times longer the OEM one. Pushed the main jet in too far. Ultimately, I replaced all the carb seals and reused the OEM diaphragm, calibrated the main jet spring and fork height, cleaned the exhaust screen, replaced fuel and oil lines and duck bills, and cleaned the clutch.

After all that it fired right up! Got it idling great and bar is well lubed. Oil system working nicely. Just need to fabricate a tiny “D” shaped tool to adjust the high speed jet on the carb. Then I’ll be able to see what this old saw can do.

Thank you guys for the help.

[blythkd]

You can flatten and shape the end of a piece of 3/16 copper tubing to fit the single ear type high speed needle. Lot easier than using needle nose pliers to adjust.