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Post by mikem on May 28, 2009 19:11:44 GMT -5
I recently bought a SXL with a leaking gas tank and during the diassembly process noted the piston shows scuffing on the exhaust side. Figured might as well take a few more nuts off and pull the cylinder for better look. The rings were solidly embedded in carbon and had to be dug out of the grooves. Here's the questions: There are two "orientation pins", one in each of the ring grooves. One pin is directly under the other. The rings do not have any indents on the inner edge that match the pins so I am under the impression that when new rings are installed, the orientation pins will be in the end gaps of the rings  This would place one ring gap directly over the other and would create the ideal opportunity for a compression leak. Is this the correct way to install the rings and am I way off base with the compression leak theory ? Should I re-ring or go back with the old rings. They appear fine. I have cleaned the piston & cylinder and I think they are not damaged enough to replace. Additionally, what do you guys use for a ring compression tool ? My tool for cars/trucks is way too big for this job. |
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Post by lesorubcheek on May 28, 2009 20:30:13 GMT -5
There are two "orientation pins", one in each of the ring grooves. One pin is directly under the other. The rings do not have any indents on the inner edge that match the pins so I am under the impression that when new rings are installed, the orientation pins will be in the end gaps of the rings This would place one ring gap directly over the other and would create the ideal opportunity for a compression leak. Is this the correct way to install the rings and am I way off base with the compression leak theory ? Seems strange and I haven't figured this one out yet either, but it is correct and it does work! Should I re-ring or go back with the old rings. They appear fine. I have cleaned the piston & cylinder and I think they are not damaged enough to replace. Can't hurt to try the old rings first. You can check the comp and if not good put new rings later. Additionally, what do you guys use for a ring compression tool ? My tool for cars/trucks is way too big for this job. I use a set from Baileys. Here's the link. www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=10429&catID=233Dan |
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Post by oleglass on Jun 2, 2009 19:51:24 GMT -5
If you do not want to purchase the set mentioned, I use a water hose clamp like used on a automotive radiator hose.
It screws down on the rings and let you slide the cylinder down on the piston, and then unscrew the clamp and it comes apart.
I have used this process in installing many piston and ring sets when I worked in the saw shop.
Never had any problem, just lube the piston and rings well.
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Post by mikem on Jun 2, 2009 20:38:36 GMT -5
If you do not want to purchase the set mentioned, I use a water hose clamp like used on a automotive radiator hose. It screws down on the rings and let you slide the cylinder down on the piston, and then unscrew the clamp and it comes apart. I have used this process in installing many piston and ring sets when I worked in the saw shop. Never had any problem, just lube the piston and rings well. I never thought of that one..good idea ! I did end up making one by cutting a 1 inch strip of metal flashing about 5 inches long, bending it around the piston and bending tabs on the ends of the strip so I could squeeze the ends together and compress the rings. I then lowered the cylinder on the piston  |
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Post by mikevan on Jun 7, 2009 6:04:20 GMT -5
I've only done a dozen or so, but I've never needed a ring compressor on a saw. I've found [like old zip] that with the taper built into the jug, the piston will self start sort of, and with some care, slide right in.
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Post by rharley95ci on Jun 7, 2009 9:38:29 GMT -5
I've always used my fingers also but I like the idea with the flashing. I think a piece of metal banding should cover both rings on anything I do. Later guys .....I'm off to make my ring clamp.
Dave
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Post by mikem on Jun 8, 2009 22:20:43 GMT -5
I also found it helpful to slide a couple of short pieces of 1" X 2" under the cylinder to support it while you slide the cylinder on. This allows you to concentrate on the rings and cylinder without having to hassle(  ) with holding the piston at the same time.  |
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This would place one ring gap directly over the other and would create the ideal opportunity for a compression leak. Is this the correct way to install the rings and am I way off base with the compression leak theory ?
