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Post by mikem on May 6, 2009 20:40:54 GMT -5
Project SEZ. I pulled the muffler and the cylinder and piston do not appear scuffed but the far side of the piston wall has an area that is not as shiny. Good compression but just by "feel". The saw has spark but no fuel delivery. It will pop with a shot of starter fluid. It appears someone has installed a carb kit as there are matchmarks on various parts. The carb is marked Homelite HDC. I assume this is a Walbro carb. My question is as follows: 1) Does the carb need to be pulled out of the airbox for a carb kit to be installed or is there sufficient access under the cover plate to leave the carb in the airbox?(My bearpaws have trouble fitting in that box  ) 2) Assuming (bad call,I know) there has been a carb kit installed recently, is there anything I can check without buying another kit ? I believe this carb has an internal diaphram fuel pump that uses intake pulses to pump the fuel. Thanks in advance ;D Michael |
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Post by aviatur on May 6, 2009 20:59:26 GMT -5
Just a hunch here, but it wouldn 't surprise me if someone tried to put a kit in, that they got the diaphram and gasket reversed or the fuel line has a hole in it. Both are from experience. You need to take the carb out of the air box to do it correcly. Keep us iformed as to what you find.
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Post by lesorubcheek on May 7, 2009 6:44:29 GMT -5
In addition to the diaphram / gasket order as mentioned by aviatur, check the height of the metering lever and possibly check the fuel inlet needle to make sure its not deformed where it seats. You can take the top off with the carb installed, but it'll have to be removed to get the metering diaphram cover off since its underneath.
Dan
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Post by MCS on May 7, 2009 10:03:40 GMT -5
Some things to do, as mentioned above, before you pull the carb out. Take the top plate off the carb. Do you find any gas? The diaphragm goes next to the body then the gasket, then the plate. What about the fuel line and filter? If you pull the carb. look and maybe remove the reed pyramid and inspect. Hold the saw vertical just in case the reed retainer doesn't come out the the pyramid. You don't want the reed(s) to fall into the crankcase. On the bottom side of the carb. The gasket goes next to the body then the diaphragm. If there is a hook in the metering lever, make sure it gets slipped into the metering diaphragm. wem.walbro.com/distributors/servicemanuals/HDCseries.pdf |
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Post by chesterwin on May 7, 2009 12:17:23 GMT -5
I don't know if I should jump in on this thread or start a new one but, I just tried pulling the cylinder off my sez that came "locked up". It's seized so tight I can't back the piston out even when putting a piece of dowel through the plug hole and hammering. I sprayed liquid wrench down the plug hole and left the saw standing for a couple of weeks now hoping it would loosen things up before I started tearing it down. Any advice on how to get the piston out of the cylinder? I'm going to the parts threads now cause I know I'll need parts!
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Post by redsqwrl on May 7, 2009 13:24:09 GMT -5
This is my top secret way to remove items like this, But you have to promise to be careful.
I fit a Grease gun to the Spark plug hole.......
Porta power and Brake fluid work too.....
Be careful.
Rs
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Post by chainsawwhisperer on May 7, 2009 13:34:15 GMT -5
This is my top secret way to remove items like this, But you have to promise to be careful. I fit a Grease gun to the Spark plug hole....... Porta power and Brake fluid work too..... Be careful. Rs The greese gun system works like a charm! I broke a David Bradley piston free using it. but the piston has to be above the ports. I had to block the exhaust port to do it, But once the top of the piston opened the transfers that was it. CSW |
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Post by MCS on May 7, 2009 13:40:06 GMT -5
I don't know if I should jump in on this thread or start a new one but, I just tried pulling the cylinder off my sez that came "locked up". It's seized so tight I can't back the piston out even when putting a piece of dowel through the plug hole and hammering. I sprayed liquid wrench down the plug hole and left the saw standing for a couple of weeks now hoping it would loosen things up before I started tearing it down. Any advice on how to get the piston out of the cylinder? I'm going to the parts threads now cause I know I'll need parts! I thought we touched on this in one of your other threads  Remove the the starter pawl pivot bolts from the flywheel and bolt a bar to the flywheel using these holes. Then try and free the piston using this bar. Please try and find the other thread to continue this. |
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Post by OBR on May 7, 2009 16:23:48 GMT -5
hm...im just gonna throw my two penny's in...but if its that stuck what are the chances it going to be any good even if you do get the piston out? I think I'd save my time and just start looking for parts...
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Post by MCS on May 7, 2009 22:04:01 GMT -5
hm...im just gonna throw my two penny's in...but if its that stuck what are the chances it going to be any good even if you do get the piston out? I think I'd save my time and just start looking for parts... hm...I'll add three cents to make it an even nickel ;D Can't put any parts in the saw until the old piston and cylinder are out of the way. One way or another, the thing has to come apart. |
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Post by mikem on May 7, 2009 22:22:50 GMT -5
Some things to do, as mentioned above, before you pull the carb out. Take the top plate off the carb. Do you find any gas? The diaphragm goes next to the body then the gasket, then the plate. What about the fuel line and filter? If you pull the carb. look and maybe remove the reed pyramid and inspect. Hold the saw vertical just in case the reed retainer doesn't come out the the pyramid. You don't want the reed(s) to fall into the crankcase. On the bottom side of the carb. The gasket goes next to the body then the diaphragm. If there is a hook in the metering lever, make sure it gets slipped into the metering diaphragm. wem.walbro.com/distributors/servicemanuals/HDCseries.pdfCraig, I pulled the filter, cleaned and re-installed. The gas line is appears servicable but a little soft. I will replace this just to eliminate it as a possible cause. Do you know if Tygon(same OD) will work for a fuel line? It is hard to see on the IPL. I pulled to the top plate off the carb but did not remove the gasket and diaphram. I will do as you suggested this weekend and report results. I wish I had the Walbro tool to pressure up the fuel system to test the carb. That looks like a cool tool  |
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Post by OBR on May 7, 2009 22:29:14 GMT -5
hm...im just gonna throw my two penny's in...but if its that stuck what are the chances it going to be any good even if you do get the piston out? I think I'd save my time and just start looking for parts... hm...I'll add three cents to make it an even nickel ;D Can't put any parts in the saw until the old piston and cylinder are out of the way. One way or another, the thing has to come apart. long as the piston is above the ports i say just put a lil starter fluid down there and giver a spark....it'll come off....real quick...lol  just messin w/ ya....reckon ya oughta try the grease er something sane.... |
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Post by MCS on May 8, 2009 22:24:29 GMT -5
Craig, I pulled the filter, cleaned and re-installed. The gas line is appears servicable but a little soft. I will replace this just to eliminate it as a possible cause. Do you know if Tygon(same OD) will work for a fuel line? It is hard to see on the IPL. The tygon will work. That's what was under the air cleaner in the SXL. I'm not 100% sure that the SEZ takes the same line but it very well may. If the OD is the same as the black original that's all the matters. Craig |
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Post by mikem on May 10, 2009 16:09:32 GMT -5
I pulled the carb and found the gasket is missing that should be on top of the fuel diaphram. Not sure but this could be the reason the carb would not pump fuel. Goes without saying a whole new kit will be installed in the carb as who knows what else may be missing/messed up.
Another issue: When I got the saw it was in a plastic bag and the B&C had been removed for shipping. The bottom of the bag had about a cup of chain oil in the bottom. Obviously, it had been leaking before he shipped it otherwise he would not have put a bag on it. Have you guys ever had the oil pump leak or possibly the ball check valve ? The tank does not have any outward signs of a leak.
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Post by MCS on May 10, 2009 16:48:21 GMT -5
The missing gasket is definitely a problem. I don't think the check flaps on the diaphragm can open if the gasket is missing. The oil issue may not be a problem. I wouldn't jump to any conclusions unit you did your own testing. Check the two lines that are connected to the manual pump to start with, then fill it with some oil and let it sit.
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Post by mikem on May 11, 2009 20:46:36 GMT -5
I forgot to mention in my last post that I pulled the reed cage after removing the carb and found all was well there. The carb rebuild kit is in the mail. I did not order the gasket between the carb and intake as the old one appears to be in good condition. Should I order a new gasket or is it common practice to re-use the old one ?
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Post by MCS on May 12, 2009 19:25:52 GMT -5
If the gasket isn't torn you should be OK. I suppose it is stuck to either part so just leave it where it's stuck. Just make sure to check that the pulse hole to the carb is open.
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Post by mikem on May 13, 2009 11:32:39 GMT -5
If the gasket isn't torn you should be OK. I suppose it is stuck to either part so just leave it where it's stuck. Just make sure to check that the pulse hole to the carb is open. Yes, it's stuck to the carb. I will re-install when the carb is rebuilt. I mistakenly ordered a carb kit for an XL2 instead of an SEZ. All I saw on the ad was "kit for HDC".Carb kit they shipped is for an HDC carb so I guess that carb was used on both saws. Am I ok with this kit or do you think the needle and seat might be bigger/smaller than the SEZ requires |
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Post by MCS on May 13, 2009 20:09:31 GMT -5
I know most if not all HDC carburetors use the same kit Walbro # K10-HDC or the Diaphragm Kit D10-HDC. There are after market kits on the market too but they will reference the Walbro numbers. This might help: www.ordertree.com/cms/Diaphragm+Carburetors/322.htmlType in HDC at the bottom of the page and you'll get a listing. |
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Post by mikem on May 13, 2009 22:10:32 GMT -5
I know most if not all HDC carburetors use the same kit Walbro # K10-HDC or the Diaphragm Kit D10-HDC. There are after market kits on the market too but they will reference the Walbro numbers. This might help: www.ordertree.com/cms/Diaphragm+Carburetors/322.htmlType in HDC at the bottom of the page and you'll get a listing. I think the K-10 carb kit is common to both saws and contains the diaphrams also. I should be ok ;D |
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